Sunday, June 28, 2009

Freeze your unfinished wine - it works!



When a neighbor told me that rather than dumping unfinished wine, he freezes it, I was doubtful. In this rather extended video episode with the help of wine expert Mao Fujita (Mao Lecours), I examine whether this method of preserving wine actually works.

Here is the tartaric acid sediment (explained in the video) in red and white wine. While it may not look appealing, it is perfectly harmless and can easily be removed by decanting or careful pouring.

Sunday, June 14, 2009

The philosophy of a quiet wine


As I taste, study, and live with wine, I notice patterns. Slowly patterns lead to theories, which lead to philosophies. The fruits of that process of discovery and enlightenment inspire me to write these pages.

Time and again wines that shine at tastings fail to provide companionship at the dining table. Savvy is the taster who knows that. Take two wines - one that stands out at a tasting, and another that is more subtle, more subdued - and more often than not at the end of the meal, it is the quiet one that will be playing a symphony in your belly, while the super-star is still sitting at table, snickering at you.

Last night after a tasting at Vineyard Gate, several of us grabbed dinner at the nearby Afghan restaurant, and brought a couple of newly imported value Bordeaux at under $20 - one a 2004 Margaux, and another a 2005 St. Emilion. The 2005 is a legendary vintage, having produced wines of tremendous power and concentration. Even this non-classified St. Emilion showed bright intense fruit, while the lowly 2004 did not seem to have much aroma or flavor, and was quite light on the palate. While elegance is often associated with lightness when it's backed by depth of flavor that lingers (a trademark of the commune of Margaux), this Margaux seemed to lack elegance, and was just plain "ok" for me.

The food came - spiced pumpkin with yogurt, dumplings with onion and zesty ground lamb, beef stew with eggplant, and lamb and chicken kebabs. Naturally, I went for the St. Emilion, but... after washing down a few bites of food with it, it seemed too bright, juicy, and intense, masking the flavors in the dishes. I sighed and reached for the Margaux...

At the end of the meal, the Margaux was almost gone while the St. Emilion was almost full. For in wine, as in life, a pretty face that you notice first is hardly ever the one that you can share your life with.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Don't take your good wine for granted


Last night I had a wake-up call. Two friends came to the house, and after we were done with dinner with some nice auslese Riesling, it was almost midnight, and we were not in the mood or presence of mind to enjoy another fancy bottle of anything, so an opportunity to sip on something unrefined and unsophisticated presented itself.

In the past couple of years, I'd had a good fortune of being surrounded by friends who pride themselves on drinking good wine. I'd also been conducting tastings at Vineyard Gate for a while now. As we go through the wines, I stay truthful to my own palate. If something is not to my liking, I hold no punches against the wine even if it means discouraging the customer from buying it. Luckily, time and time again, tasting after tasting at Vineyard Gate, I have been sounding like a broken record - "none of the wines we've tasted today seem not-good to me." Lately, I've also been checking on various online forums where people preach their unconditional love for wine, *any* wine. According to some, wine can do no wrong.

I've gotten so used to drinking decent wine, that I forgot how bad it can be. After last night affair in my kitchen, my appreciation of Vineyard Gate and my wine friends is renewed, as I no longer continue to take wine in my life for granted!

We were done with desserts, and it felt like something on the order of an easy-drinking California Chardonnay may finally be appropriate to sip by itself. So down I went to my cellar with an eye toward an expendable wine. I'd had a number of random bottles sitting around from various gifts I'd gotten from neighbors over the last year, something that I would probably never buy myself. So I pulled out a bottle of 2001 Chalone Chardonnay, thinking it might have some nice age on it... The first whiff of the wine proved deadly - sherry nose didn't even require me to taste. My braver friends took sips, and the contorted expressions on their faces begged no further elaboration. ~$28. Oxidized. Gone! I went back to the cellar and grabbed another bottle from an anonymous guest - Les Arpents Chenin Blanc 2007, expecting some light sweetness and decent flavor from this Loire valley white. The nose was non-expressive, and the taste - green, lean, sour. The wine was a total non-event. But at least it was not spoiled. I guessed a $6 wine from Trader Joe's. But googling it revealed a $16-20 price tag! Gone! So down I went to the cellar again, and picked up another bottle that I'd never buy myself - Wolf Blass South Australia Chardonnay 2004. With bland nose right off the bat, this wine proceeded to unimpress with a pure expression of oak chip juice with hints of diluted pear - a horrific potion! ~$15-20. The label on the back of the bottle said: "displays classic peach and melon characters, integrated oak flavors and a creamy soft texture". Wow, talk about marketing spin - Gone! Now that I was dully provoked, I vowed to keep going through this cellar cleansing until a decent wine was finally identified. Next I grabbed a 2003 Napa Ridge Coastal Vines Shiraz from Lodi, a gift from yet another anonymous source. The half-corked nose foreboded ominously for this ghastly red, which my friends all suggested tasted more like a bad Pinot. $10. To the drain! Now at 0 for 4, the wall of shame kept expanding and my determination never to accept any wine from unproven individuals grew stronger. Having lost all hope, I fetched a Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvigon Saratoga Cuvee 2000, which finally rescued us from the jaws of wine hell (only to reveal corkiness the day after).

And with that, my friends, I conclude this somber tale of cellar cleansing which serves us a reminder - do not take your good wine for granted, there is a lot of bad bad bad wine out there. Buyer beware!

Thursday, June 4, 2009

If it's Viognier, it's got to be Condrieu



Chante-Perdrix Condrieu "Authentic" 2007 - $39 @ Vineyard Gate.
Had it with wine friends, they were so impressed they asked for more. This is the best Viognier based wine under $50 that I've ever tried - in the same category as some of the best 1er Cru white Burgundies. Not just tasty but intellectual too. If anyone ever had doubts about this grape varietal, think again! If it's Viognier, it's got to be Condrieu!

Monday, June 1, 2009

This wine is like a bad girlfriend



Le Coq Rouge 2006. Red wine from the Languedoc region in the South of France. $9. Had it 4 times - love it, hate it, like it, love it -- what's going on? Iron Chevsky breaks this little number down.

I thought it was me, but I now I think it is her (hm..hm... I mean the wine).

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