tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-50119462457687949032024-03-15T18:11:40.723-07:00The Iron Chevsky Wine BlogGary Chevsky's blog about wine - thoughts and experiencesIron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.comBlogger327125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-77088740761526246332024-03-14T04:16:00.000-07:002024-03-14T04:30:27.269-07:00Beyond Wine Ignorance: Embrace Discovery<p><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNYcYN7I0vWDAHZYR7lnD5Eci-OLP_N_uuJ8clrzw_w13g95MjmapJq0vvIupUqBsZMXUqHwK9JN8p2NhrC6xw6vruNNZd6CfID1H60bysFB6Y7XFmHQjAhv2MdQ3DaNl1MXKC2cbfOF0ORncVUaPZahwUx6fnIYy2-UDs8I5xt6nwoI9Kr5mbRC2N08/s3460/IMG_9227.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3460" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNYcYN7I0vWDAHZYR7lnD5Eci-OLP_N_uuJ8clrzw_w13g95MjmapJq0vvIupUqBsZMXUqHwK9JN8p2NhrC6xw6vruNNZd6CfID1H60bysFB6Y7XFmHQjAhv2MdQ3DaNl1MXKC2cbfOF0ORncVUaPZahwUx6fnIYy2-UDs8I5xt6nwoI9Kr5mbRC2N08/w222-h195/IMG_9227.jpg" width="222" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Years have passed. The love and the journey continue, but the passion and the excitement of the senses have become more cerebral and serene. Funny how this works. With each passing year, I find that the fervor of my heart has settled into a profound appreciation, one that speaks more through silence than through words. The love is there, unyielding, but it has grown deeper, more introspective.</span><p></p><p>I post my wine impressions and notes on <a href="http://www.x.com/ironchevsky">Twitter</a>, it's quick and easy, the so-called "short form". What about essays, let alone epics? Perhaps one day soon. But let me try a "<b>thought form</b>"... a paragraph or two expressing a single thought or emotion...</p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">In the vibrant, bustling San Francisco Bay Area, home to countless wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs, I often find myself amidst individuals who, despite their self-proclaimed liking or even love for wine, possess a rather surface-level understanding of it. This observation is not meant as criticism but as an invitation to explore. I get it. It's like me with most foods and drinks. I consume them, but just don't care enough to study them. Yet, wine is different. It's not merely a beverage but a gateway to a richer, more fulfilling lifestyle. The journey into wine culture is remarkably accessible. Start simple: buy a few bottles, perhaps from different regions, and open them together with dinner. Note the nuances, the stories each bottle tells through its flavors and aromas. Or, consider attending a wine tasting at local gems like the <a href="https://fpwm.com/">Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant</a> in San Francisco or <a href="https://vinvinowine.com/">Vin Vino Wine</a> in Palo Alto. </span>Maybe buy a book like <a href="https://a.co/d/apTtTvY">Adventures on a Wine Route</a> or <a href="https://a.co/d/boOltyf">Reflections of a Wine Merchant</a> or <a href="https://a.co/d/a1yjLNL">Sideways</a>. This sets you on a path that will enrich your life and expand your horizons tremendously, because wine appreciation influences your travel, your gastronomy, your company, your sense of history, culture, nature, time, and on. Friend, take that step, and stop being embarrassed by your ignorance.</p>Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-84587913221937075352021-11-25T22:04:00.000-08:002024-03-14T09:31:34.069-07:00Twitter<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4lBg7q6Mj36R1U_g5GMFepUQ-jKZGLxnO0Yo7EkCMuTvXYMq0uCZYOFXMcd27_Iy0YHHESUaIQPrZVkpxLoat1YbYjLg5fTB5eNpZXw6EkXtbHZ7EK9HdT4f8ECtLExnw7OfY1ln3apQOG135xTzqWEIOSgv4ajy09tnsFgt4jMfLyfUNEd7PvShQ4YQ/s800/Twitter-New-Logo-X-2023-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="800" height="83" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4lBg7q6Mj36R1U_g5GMFepUQ-jKZGLxnO0Yo7EkCMuTvXYMq0uCZYOFXMcd27_Iy0YHHESUaIQPrZVkpxLoat1YbYjLg5fTB5eNpZXw6EkXtbHZ7EK9HdT4f8ECtLExnw7OfY1ln3apQOG135xTzqWEIOSgv4ajy09tnsFgt4jMfLyfUNEd7PvShQ4YQ/w165-h83/Twitter-New-Logo-X-2023-.jpg" width="165" /></a></div>I have shifted much of my publishing to very frequent short posts via Twitter. My Twitter stream is always accessible at <a href="https://twitter.com/IronChevsky">twitter.com/ironchevsky</a>. I will continue to publish more involved stories here on the blog, but for quick takes, photos, tasting notes and opinions, I find that Twitter provides a more natural medium. Nearly every single one of my wine and worthwhile foodie experiences can be followed there. Many wine experts I know have shifted to Instagram for broadcasting their activities, as well as <a href="http://www.cellartracker.com/">Cellartracker</a> for writing wine notes. There is also significant traffic on <a href="http://www.wineberserkers.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=944e970c2f02b6218d8b57d95fb5748e">WineBerserkers.com forums</a>, as well as in some relatively recent <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/659312684414626">Facebook groups</a>. I visit and enjoy all of the above, but for now, I am sticking with Twitter for most of my short-form updates. Please follow me <a href="https://twitter.com/IronChevsky">there</a>!<br />
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<a class="twitter-timeline" data-height="2000" href="https://twitter.com/IronChevsky">Tweets by IronChevsky</a> <script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script>Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-16962980378080064702018-03-30T21:45:00.002-07:002018-03-31T10:21:58.436-07:00Protege Opens in Palo Alto with Michelin-Star Aspirations<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Finally, a fine dining, foodie restaurant opens in Palo Alto. There is no shortage of restaurants in this town flush with Silicon Valley millionaires (and billionaires), but finding an avenue that satisfies a truly discerning palate is a tough call. <a href="http://www.protegepaloalto.com/">Protege</a> is located at 250 S. California Ave. They soft-launched last week aspiring to fit that bill, and it mostly delivers. Founded by ex-French Laundry culinary and vinous experts Anthony Secviar (chef) and Dennis Kelly (master sommelier, a very elite designation of wine expertise), the food is high-end, yet manages to avoid a stuffy/snobby feel of a formal Michelin-star establishment. The room is divided into a "no-reservations-accepted / first-come-first-serve" a la carte section, which based on <a href="https://sf.eater.com/2018/3/26/17163364/protege-french-laundry-fine-dining-palo-alto-open">the review from a trusted source</a> is fantastic, and the more formal "prix-fixe" reservations-only (reservations are taken exactly one week in advance) where you get to choose a 3 or 4 course (mix-and-match, i.e. you can get all 3 desserts if you like) menu, with a couple of amuse-bouches and the most delicious freshly baked bread thrown in between, a work of an inspired and extremely talented baker and pastry chef Eddie Lopez, also ex-French Laundry.<br />
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The four of us were able to secure one of the only three tables available in the formal dining room at any one time during this initial launch period, and we spent nearly four hours savoring the food, the wine, the atmosphere, and the company, staying well past the official close time, thanks to the most forthcoming staff. We all ordered the four-course menu, which baselined at $85 per person, plus some supplemental charges for things like foie gras, etc. Cheese plate and wines were all extra. The courses were beautiful and very promising, but not all successful, and the chef is still rapidly experimenting and refining the dishes, we were told. I loved everything except the meat courses. Speaking of which, the duck dish, called Peking Duck, had very little to resemble the classical Chinese dish. The skin was thick, with unrendered fat underneath, the flesh was steak-like rare and slightly chewy, rather than cooked-through and melt-in-your-mouth as in traditional Peking duck. It was basically a seared duck breast, from what I could tell, with a poorly chosen name for the dish. But aside from those small nits, the duck meat was tasty, and the sauce on it was spectacular, the whole dish pairing like a dream with the 2005 Michel Gros 1er Cru Vosne-Romanee Clos des Reas red Burgundy I brought ($50 corkage was worth it, but let me touch on that a bit later.) The renowned 1er Cru performed really well, bright and full of vitality, while at the same time showing fully secondary flavors, a complex medley of tree bark, brown sugar, hint of leather, licorice, and a glossy assortment of black cherries and blue fruits, accompanied by bright acidity - in other words a prime example of what I look for in red Burgundy. 2005's have taken a long time to develop, but this wine seems to have entered its drinkability window and should continue to drink great for probably another 10 years easy. Based on this specimen, I would suggest Burg geeks should start looking at their 2005's.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duck</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW0WVKEwGsqauhp48j0Gml25hRuuqSIiIUT_jXgsztdZVMivl8I3GArg8o5WMMvSv_JbX_Cql16hmO79RjanHKbEuPh8KaDVSQktkJ8gCVDqjqkQGkdpuKFa2xhS12QKAtkx1W88TZ86Q/s1600/IMG_4421.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1550" data-original-width="1600" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW0WVKEwGsqauhp48j0Gml25hRuuqSIiIUT_jXgsztdZVMivl8I3GArg8o5WMMvSv_JbX_Cql16hmO79RjanHKbEuPh8KaDVSQktkJ8gCVDqjqkQGkdpuKFa2xhS12QKAtkx1W88TZ86Q/s320/IMG_4421.HEIC" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wagyu beef</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikXRM-EcKqxok6Bki1m9UaqJ2L7jblfhRRouK6D-7sCnCOLC26tb8HusjE2I5bI8h7D8FbZg1F0AheAHpxkeeh3K-K8SnEsuk-XnKxtmLDgLE7ITXvxz0CP68wAsTVUdd6HUZOypHUKyg/s1600/IMG_4423.HEIC" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikXRM-EcKqxok6Bki1m9UaqJ2L7jblfhRRouK6D-7sCnCOLC26tb8HusjE2I5bI8h7D8FbZg1F0AheAHpxkeeh3K-K8SnEsuk-XnKxtmLDgLE7ITXvxz0CP68wAsTVUdd6HUZOypHUKyg/s320/IMG_4423.HEIC" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs9bICg806wPHYD9CIHgrLDXqtyKtSLminpQWOodV_SIsU3OPXv68UPw-x1ztafOu4VgHgk29WFasrc47A__5QB_UzZ5JPN6hS-Xwq3Fhyphenhypheniza9tPqlJHPVEueQMCUmQzqdTBkD24hsZTM/s1600/IMG_4420.HEIC" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs9bICg806wPHYD9CIHgrLDXqtyKtSLminpQWOodV_SIsU3OPXv68UPw-x1ztafOu4VgHgk29WFasrc47A__5QB_UzZ5JPN6hS-Xwq3Fhyphenhypheniza9tPqlJHPVEueQMCUmQzqdTBkD24hsZTM/s320/IMG_4420.HEIC" width="240" /></a><br />
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The wagyu filet dish was underwhelming. The beef did not taste special, IMO not even as good as a non-wagyu steak at a typical steakhouse, and I would have preferred just one piece (not two) and more other interesting things on the plate. Those dishes aside, the foie-gras appetizer that preceded these was sublime, paired with a 2001 Sauternes from Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey, all the seafood dishes (crab, hamachi tartar, and sablefish) were delightful, the cheese cart while limited in selections provided for a delectable, high-quality cheese plate, and the desserts were superb, especially the incredible strawberry shortcake meringue, an artistic and gastronomic masterpiece. I will also note that the interior of the place is stylish, tasteful and inviting, the master som expertly understated, and the service very friendly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyiT3ysAw1i5jQp252EuLFSyjeewYsO3DxfyRAQFF8Hmo_6b6Beqbtty7Gnxv5cAJDtWD3sljVpyuqC7NnnPB8Lz-VzxnNF8yoELc4dIWQL2fzhyphenhyphennUotSsHOwhRgfg-XDPD9-ye-aujeE/s1600/IMG_4425.HEIC" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyiT3ysAw1i5jQp252EuLFSyjeewYsO3DxfyRAQFF8Hmo_6b6Beqbtty7Gnxv5cAJDtWD3sljVpyuqC7NnnPB8Lz-VzxnNF8yoELc4dIWQL2fzhyphenhyphennUotSsHOwhRgfg-XDPD9-ye-aujeE/s320/IMG_4425.HEIC" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiBN0sdNOXeDDhdyF-_D-Q_Lq17KKZyivBfs7gBpQFRt-I3ZCx-EQIZSY-SGjobsxpE_WxfUMfDPt6BaKqA5CPCoWnNgSL0niXIOLvv8YPYDB3DnAFmWM5UISSA28WYuYSnJ7fG8skNZU/s1600/IMG_4427.HEIC" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1398" data-original-width="1600" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiBN0sdNOXeDDhdyF-_D-Q_Lq17KKZyivBfs7gBpQFRt-I3ZCx-EQIZSY-SGjobsxpE_WxfUMfDPt6BaKqA5CPCoWnNgSL0niXIOLvv8YPYDB3DnAFmWM5UISSA28WYuYSnJ7fG8skNZU/s200/IMG_4427.HEIC" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyGHNvCdMNWWx4vIiXrK2OiO2y6qLnqYOZCEsEUQVBOxls4BMNopwy0HPcdXAm6yYdTGLwmprVhs0fVzHX30AZrLOFzm5TXIKPhVbfK8DD8CeFx2gvLRPNJrL2nDcK04xDFQQcsWGh9ko/s1600/IMG_4429.HEIC" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1276" data-original-width="1600" height="159" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyGHNvCdMNWWx4vIiXrK2OiO2y6qLnqYOZCEsEUQVBOxls4BMNopwy0HPcdXAm6yYdTGLwmprVhs0fVzHX30AZrLOFzm5TXIKPhVbfK8DD8CeFx2gvLRPNJrL2nDcK04xDFQQcsWGh9ko/s200/IMG_4429.HEIC" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-a88foafq0U_lS3iit_2N6S-o9gd1Cu5OLwrkQrHcrr8NcbnDuzabyuekja9ELEUmndYnMzYpINAM-GW15_eNinHhF0rynIa7vTgP13_apIzjdq1sdlkSNrZfzTQxoEqJUy4n8wIQyAg/s1600/IMG_4428.HEIC" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1336" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-a88foafq0U_lS3iit_2N6S-o9gd1Cu5OLwrkQrHcrr8NcbnDuzabyuekja9ELEUmndYnMzYpINAM-GW15_eNinHhF0rynIa7vTgP13_apIzjdq1sdlkSNrZfzTQxoEqJUy4n8wIQyAg/s200/IMG_4428.HEIC" width="166" /></a><br />
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With regards to wine, I think we picked the right strategy, which was to rely on the master som's recommendation for the Champagne by-the-glass (starter and the pairing with the caviar amuse-bouche), Sauternes by-the-glass (pairing with foie gras), and the white half-bottle (a suitable but not noteworthy white burgundy from the master Paul Pillot, for a price one can swallow - $75 for half-bottle), while relying on our own high-end red Burgundy being a perfect (IMHO) choice for the later courses.<br />
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Now let me touch on the $50 corkage, the wine list, and the service. Overall, I feel the wine list is very well put together, many of my favorite producers, without being ultra-high-end (although you can spot a 2005 DRC RSV for $3500 there, which is actually one of the relatively better deals on the list, in terms of the markup over retail market pricing). The relatively high representation of half-bottles was a welcome touch. The glassware from the Ridel Vinum series was fabulous - tall glasses with thin stems, very elegant, different shapes specifically matched to each of the four types of wine we had. The only nit/suggestion I would make is that it would be way cooler, IMHO, if there were some easter eggs or special deals on the wine list that would appeal to the wine crowd. At <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2014/10/zola-excellent-french-restaurant-debuts.html">Zola</a>, for example, the corkage is discounted to $10 for wines that are 10 years or older. Or if Protege offered a few wines every week that were marked up perhaps 30-50% over retail rather than the customary 300%.<br />
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I was told that a chef's table will be set up in the wine cellar in April where guests will be lavished with even more attention and special items. All in all, a very promising start and a sure thumbs up, with the benefit of the doubt given to the inspiring restaurant. We hope to be back on a regular basis.Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-24060894854875195962016-06-11T23:32:00.001-07:002016-06-12T00:04:26.020-07:002011 Produttori del Barbaresco Horizontal Tasting<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3pBJud_Mpffn8lt1fuSI8sj1MhVn1yeyIytX5saE7xB_KdGJGt7U6p9AevY2m9NjviDc_RIwRLhmg7o9Uuhq-CNQEP-iEckSxZIpWLbl9hPhx_E1a-gSKDMAHUXxzzYDcZhsfMfU2yZc/s1600/2011+produttori.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3pBJud_Mpffn8lt1fuSI8sj1MhVn1yeyIytX5saE7xB_KdGJGt7U6p9AevY2m9NjviDc_RIwRLhmg7o9Uuhq-CNQEP-iEckSxZIpWLbl9hPhx_E1a-gSKDMAHUXxzzYDcZhsfMfU2yZc/s640/2011+produttori.jpg" /></a><br />
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Produttori del Barbaresco is the benchmark producer of Barbaresco. Always reliable in quality, they represent remarkable value too. And with their 9 single-vineyard riserva cru's, you get a look at the nuances of the various terroirs of Barbaresco. Though 2011 was a warmer than ideal year, it is considered a good vintage in Barbaresco, with wines on the riper, richer, darker, sexier end of the scale, but with good tannic structure and sufficient acidity, giving them serious ability to age. The fruit is by no means roasted or raisiny, as may happen in hot years. In short, 2011 vintage in Barbaresco is a vintage of considerable early appeal, but with serious capacity to age.<br />
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Here are my impressions of the 2011 line-up from Produttori del Barbaresco, in the order I tasted them. There was a clear familial similarity among all the wines, including the Normale bottling. They were suave, rich, ripe, and tannic, shifting from red berries to blueberries and plums, hints of herbs and spices, with medium body and beautiful translucent garnet color (as typical for Nebbiolo). I would not call this a classic vintage for Produttori because the wines are quite rich, but nonetheless, they are delicious, perfumed and structured. They can also be enjoyed now with some decanting and food.<br />
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<b>2014 Produttori del Barbaresco, Langhe Nebbiolo</b> - before diving into the 2011's, we started with the impressively drinkable 2014 Nebbiolo. Supposedly a crap vintage, one expects top-grade juice to be declassified into the Nebbiolo Langhe, and indeed it showed. Very perfumed red fruits and herbs. Perfect (imaginary) match to a Naples-style pizza.<br />
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<b>2011 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Normale</b> - this is blend of multiple vineyards from grapes that didn't make it into the single-vineyard cru's. Terrific value in 2011, for the quality and richness you get. I think this wine will age a long time, even though it already drinks very well. Perfumed berry jam, with noticeable structure and tannins. This punches way above its weight class. Tasted on at least 5 occasions with consistent notes.<br />
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<b>2011 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Pora</b> - red berries, bitter spices, tannin<br />
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<b>2011 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Paje</b> - riper nose than Pora, some tea and blue fruit components, richer than Pora, plum, tannins kick in, beautiful, velvety blanket, leather, spice on the backend. Excellent! Tasted on two occasions with consistent notes.<br />
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<b>2011 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Ovello</b> - more red fruited, more strict, drier than Paje, tannic and linear. This comes across cooler and more restrained, and I really like this for aging. Very good! Tasted on two occasions with consistent notes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35hZV5pdCiqapoNbizBX3E7wwCzdHrGsw0pSDTVroqnFG58ImOJrppUVvALhnAmMHIp2uw0BFFnCnrh-u24L6olp058zxhMDbhZRY1mPSt_go7_S8TJu4iodzaBTT7o0Cahr59-9o1mY/s1600/2011+paje.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35hZV5pdCiqapoNbizBX3E7wwCzdHrGsw0pSDTVroqnFG58ImOJrppUVvALhnAmMHIp2uw0BFFnCnrh-u24L6olp058zxhMDbhZRY1mPSt_go7_S8TJu4iodzaBTT7o0Cahr59-9o1mY/s320/2011+paje.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7eEnI3aBdwLxmcra73k3el01uweNjGkXEaHKtwBWlJkgyA_0AItuH8HPN3_aWUSB83TDTfQv0waTI1zdMzGQZl-tcErJdXuknGCzV8lYocUl4HRjxjMY8G0dB0W2UlqKHBu9_EHIO8c/s1600/2011+ovello.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7eEnI3aBdwLxmcra73k3el01uweNjGkXEaHKtwBWlJkgyA_0AItuH8HPN3_aWUSB83TDTfQv0waTI1zdMzGQZl-tcErJdXuknGCzV8lYocUl4HRjxjMY8G0dB0W2UlqKHBu9_EHIO8c/s320/2011+ovello.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2011 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo</b> - less tannic, slightly more watery, a bit anonymous.<br />
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<b>2011 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Asili</b> - tight nose, but I sense depth. On the palate, nearly silky, elegant spice, seamless balance, similar to Paje but more elegant, classier version. The most polished cru in the lineup. Beautiful symmetry in this wine. Paje seems a bit rustic by comparison. This is great!<br />
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<b>2011 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja</b> - wow! darker, a fortress of Barbaresco, more dense and monolithic, this will go the distance, fanning out with age. A blanket of blue fruit buffering the considerable tannins that arrive later. A powerful Barbaresco destined for greatness!<br />
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<b>2011 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota</b> - strawberry nose, red fruit on the palate, tannins in the end, not as complex as others, a bit anonymous.<br />
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<b>2011 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano</b> - nice deep, ripe nose. Palate is ripe, spicy plum, blueberry, leather, long finish. Very good but a notch below Paje, Asili and Rabaja.<br />
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<b>2011 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Montefico</b> - unfortunately I didn't get to taste this one.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBcti_geNkQZt7ovu_3HB0M45hv-jcS0F8jay7Te8V2TNwzgDYkYdo8v3zpeh5ZXglesmxg4hSivuFonv1mC-u7kZP15fTGq15NXaZHBy72eUC0UpZtQPjIqkwjzarTki4TnI2TgIN0a4/s1600/2011+asili+rabaja.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBcti_geNkQZt7ovu_3HB0M45hv-jcS0F8jay7Te8V2TNwzgDYkYdo8v3zpeh5ZXglesmxg4hSivuFonv1mC-u7kZP15fTGq15NXaZHBy72eUC0UpZtQPjIqkwjzarTki4TnI2TgIN0a4/s400/2011+asili+rabaja.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
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It was no surprise, I suppose, that the two most famous Barbaresco vineyards - Asili and Rabaja - were the two most impressive wines, followed by Paje, Ovello, and Montestefano, in that order. Notice on the photo, the Asili (on the left) is clearly redder and more translucent than the darker Rabaja. The Ovello and Rabaja were the most distinctive wines representing opposite ends of the spectrum - Ovello being cooler and red-fruited, and Rabaja being dark and rich. While some wines clearly stood out, there were no slouches in the lineup. Tasting these seductive wines filled my mind with images of Italian food - a board of charcuterie, a plate of thick pasta with wild boar ragu, a bowl of mushroom truffled risotto, a pot of short ribs with polenta... Yum! Who's hungry?!Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-90177398122069857972016-05-23T22:40:00.001-07:002016-05-23T22:57:47.825-07:00Meeting George Derbalian of Atherton Wine Imports<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpjKl9yTLOwH-Hrz1DUCMaennzFIppdtR4h1IugbtBg8dZj8F8FDk5wDdfDQi1QMuNA2Q1ez0EIlTkzkCU3phR6Hd8luRGlXV8HZDsZ7RJHUJzJOlQ25egGO9dYVpvR8y8uDasB5nAvTw/s1600/Photo+May+20%252C+10+54+15+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpjKl9yTLOwH-Hrz1DUCMaennzFIppdtR4h1IugbtBg8dZj8F8FDk5wDdfDQi1QMuNA2Q1ez0EIlTkzkCU3phR6Hd8luRGlXV8HZDsZ7RJHUJzJOlQ25egGO9dYVpvR8y8uDasB5nAvTw/s640/Photo+May+20%252C+10+54+15+PM.jpg" /></a><br />
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The other night I had the privilege of attending a private dinner hosted by our neighbors, who invited the owner / founder of Atherton Wine Imports - George Derbalian and his wife Sue-Min to be the wine stuarts for an aspiring group of wine aficionados. Atherton have been around for over 30 years and established reputation for carrying some of the top names in Burgundy, including producers like Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Groffier, Roty, Hudelot-Noellat, Anne Gros, and many others whose wines I cherish in my cellar. They also import some other famous regions, but it's Burgundy where I have typically seen and bought their bottles. The dinner hosted by a prominent Chinese family consisted of home-cooked Shanghai-style (non-spicy) seafood, vegetables, poultry and pork-based courses. I have noted in the past that Chinese food when not spicy, tends to pair well with both white and red burgundy, and this experience further cemented that belief. George and Sue-Min seemed like a delightful couple, and it was my true pleasure to hear their remarks on the producers, vineyards, and vintages before us.<br />
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1. Upon arrival, guests were treated with a glass of chilled <b>Krug Grande Cuvee</b> (NV), one of my favorite champagnes, always classy, with great energy and precision, and a touch of gingery complexity and a brioche note. Krug for me strikes the perfect balance between ripeness, roundness and crystallinity.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTWys-RmWaOaIL7D5u1KIN8st0YIqxz83HfHswBMvibYthpxNlhQIk1YH9coZug3r_tJ2s0Ysh0__TQ8KUwrHwGlLo_SeQFabFX7E3TQhqsZFn-FsPv9mGGTMjNzZe4CGozkOFa-yra5k/s1600/Photo+May+20%252C+7+18+02+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTWys-RmWaOaIL7D5u1KIN8st0YIqxz83HfHswBMvibYthpxNlhQIk1YH9coZug3r_tJ2s0Ysh0__TQ8KUwrHwGlLo_SeQFabFX7E3TQhqsZFn-FsPv9mGGTMjNzZe4CGozkOFa-yra5k/s320/Photo+May+20%252C+7+18+02+PM.jpg" /></a><br />
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Two superb white burgundies and seven red burgundies followed to delight taste buds. Here are my notes.<br />
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<b>The Whites</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRxwyAb8kd57mcrM1IJtPKKgX3h0v_GRNIImysDVDGL27HrsjndaDfhxkl5hssLoAU4cpgXZcjxnUzpPUFeLFaVauqLnzurqGfsX1QMaw81sKYqTEYYv1SvdRjZJtrERoDI5Ipp1yf9o/s1600/Photo+May+20%252C+8+07+54+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRxwyAb8kd57mcrM1IJtPKKgX3h0v_GRNIImysDVDGL27HrsjndaDfhxkl5hssLoAU4cpgXZcjxnUzpPUFeLFaVauqLnzurqGfsX1QMaw81sKYqTEYYv1SvdRjZJtrERoDI5Ipp1yf9o/s400/Photo+May+20%252C+8+07+54+PM.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWW0e92PYbS4trBYA99Jb_XElq69B1R2Xodw1v63kZjzceu9_9L6b6r0MDdcm7n9R8xjmtf9pZYbDODuyDs6ou80qPYtFzgserYp6UeD5CEy5CygP8LKnPbm1Yq2N-tIsn4dKHGQo-dks/s1600/Photo+May+20%252C+8+38+00+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWW0e92PYbS4trBYA99Jb_XElq69B1R2Xodw1v63kZjzceu9_9L6b6r0MDdcm7n9R8xjmtf9pZYbDODuyDs6ou80qPYtFzgserYp6UeD5CEy5CygP8LKnPbm1Yq2N-tIsn4dKHGQo-dks/s400/Photo+May+20%252C+8+38+00+PM.jpg" /></a><br />
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2. <b>2013 Lucien Le Moine Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet</b> - despite the 2013 vintage having reputation for producing leaner, higher acid, zesty, crystalline whites, it was clear that the richer style of Lucien Le Moine resulted in something different... and decadent. Exotic notes of botrytis were evident, with tropical fruits supported by excellent acidity and oak - an incredibly delicious pairing for a ginger stir-fried crab with noodles.<br />
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3. <b>2014 Charles Van Canneyt Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets</b> - my first time with Charles' own (negociant) label, one of the two excellent wines represented at the dinner, and another stroke of greatness of the 2014 vintage for the whites of Burgundy, this wine was much more classic in profile than the previous one - more crisp, structured, very clean and pure, with perfect balance of elements. As all other 2014 white burgs I've tasted so far (probably 20 or so), this is already delightful, and will only get better with a few years of age!<br />
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<b>The Reds</b><br />
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For the reds, we had three excellent examples of the same Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru vineyard that I had never had before - Les Hauts Doix, which was exciting! We then had a brand-new 2014 Vosne Petits-Monts from Hudelot-Noellat's Charles Van Canneyt who now makes some clearly excellent wines under his own label. We finished the progression with three Grand Cru's.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB4EKBwz8NIHZvhkjrvAHTNfcZ_WIcZkOkFHoie9HKlB74TPn5XEUdZFgANYkpmHUljIIi7USpudR1sxHtU2Q6PkDW5uIjOlJSQSItFDd8vO-GaVJy5bBc31XC2MHuT-c0dWp5w8h_idc/s1600/Photo+May+20%252C+7+52+38+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB4EKBwz8NIHZvhkjrvAHTNfcZ_WIcZkOkFHoie9HKlB74TPn5XEUdZFgANYkpmHUljIIi7USpudR1sxHtU2Q6PkDW5uIjOlJSQSItFDd8vO-GaVJy5bBc31XC2MHuT-c0dWp5w8h_idc/s400/Photo+May+20%252C+7+52+38+PM.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5rYXxl733JwD4FvUPKWTUu-9ptshyphenhyphenbM1I1vOQYRYfuqkQ-YF9U_eSH9P-DlQ54F9MkL77MnHCmx0gXx1hcKxi2BOXWt9XTepqb3DKJvz2k2_IpMhpE1Ag_8ISp6TR4K9fM7OUBidOh0/s1600/Photo+May+20%252C+8+43+13+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5rYXxl733JwD4FvUPKWTUu-9ptshyphenhyphenbM1I1vOQYRYfuqkQ-YF9U_eSH9P-DlQ54F9MkL77MnHCmx0gXx1hcKxi2BOXWt9XTepqb3DKJvz2k2_IpMhpE1Ag_8ISp6TR4K9fM7OUBidOh0/s400/Photo+May+20%252C+8+43+13+PM.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqBx_LuWlTyYNNzUdf8MMUv0Juc_CYLwbso3cIJFRMTKWEzqlMa1-rrLCkEDGy1wHvLQTgN3Cs2-2txRLU6cAglsAnk9CmT_viU5YfcoUZ455qVzSlOzU6D-l00Tnc-X0aPj8hvDQhRQ/s1600/Photo+May+20%252C+9+46+13+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqBx_LuWlTyYNNzUdf8MMUv0Juc_CYLwbso3cIJFRMTKWEzqlMa1-rrLCkEDGy1wHvLQTgN3Cs2-2txRLU6cAglsAnk9CmT_viU5YfcoUZ455qVzSlOzU6D-l00Tnc-X0aPj8hvDQhRQ/s400/Photo+May+20%252C+9+46+13+PM.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
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4. <b>2013 Lucien Le Moine Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts-Doix</b> - very open and fruity, this is a pleasure to drink now for its breadth of aroma and exuberance. The structure is currently obscured by the fruit.<br />
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5. <b>2012 Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts-Doix</b> - comes across as more serious, with more power, more structure, and more refinement. Superb with time.<br />
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6. <b>2008 Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts-Doix</b> - with few more years of age under their belt, the 2008's are starting to drink well. This bottle was great - some secondary development, excellent balance of fruit and earth. Broad wine without hard edges, and my favorite of the 3 examples of this vineyard, although the 2012 seems to be destined for even brighter future. In general, the Groffier style came across as more refined, while Le Moine was (as usual) more opulent and luscious.<br />
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Then came the excellent 2014 Vosne-Romanee from Charles Van Canneyt.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQj5ZEczosiBjpfVX81ubgTGSXgIpYW03QgFqQUoFJQSNc1W0IOZmQKhK4FBiLau06Cvu2ZNLIhw8NfJwlepR05yq6vmi60BesMOJSVnptkCEpm7oepWbs1bcTZcDdCNbQA9l_rIfF7H4/s1600/Photo+May+20%252C+8+06+54+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQj5ZEczosiBjpfVX81ubgTGSXgIpYW03QgFqQUoFJQSNc1W0IOZmQKhK4FBiLau06Cvu2ZNLIhw8NfJwlepR05yq6vmi60BesMOJSVnptkCEpm7oepWbs1bcTZcDdCNbQA9l_rIfF7H4/s400/Photo+May+20%252C+8+06+54+PM.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
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7. <b>2014 Charles Van Canneyt Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Petits-Monts</b> - an excellent vineyard, this was the only Vosne Romanee in the line-up and the more serious, more sculpted character of the commune was evident. Blind, I could have mistaken it for a 2013, but perhaps with a slightly better balance, and less acidity sticking out, which pointed to 2014. There are several excellent producers such as Joseph Drouhin, Georges Noellat, Comte Liger Belair and Mongeard-Mugneret now competing for top honors at Petits Monts, and I suspect Charles Van Canneyt will soon be among them. While this 2014 is still not fully integrated, it seems very well balanced. I wish I had more time to spend with it, but alas, the next set of wines was ushered in.<br />
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The party closed with three red Grand Cru's.<br />
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8. <b>2007 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru TVV</b> - this is a flagship wine for the famous domaine, and considered by many to be the best example of that vineyard due to very old vines. It is also hardly a secret to Burgundy lovers that 2007's have been drinking superbly for a couple of years now. So this was the right time to take a look at this wine, and we were not disappointed. Though Roty's Charmes has a reputation for being deep, dark, extracted, and destined to last decades, it was apparent that the lighter 2007 vintage served well to soften the wine and make it approachable relatively early. Excellent density of material, perfectly balanced between red fruits, earth and herbs, still with long evolution ahead, this wine easily betrayed its pedigree without any overt flash, exoticism, or opulence. In the evening's exemplary line-up, this was the quiet but confident star.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFz57wvHglKIW39i88eqAVa76ekKpnfW8WBaeHp5LdaTjMcSqmouSV3KGOGrR3gIUx5pIHYH73_AkiBZIgLrqOD47uySQs_1Z73za0TCGeM1hG9hUY8QqTmVzMBuE0lzqZ1xuRMt1RR8k/s1600/Photo+May+20%252C+9+00+43+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFz57wvHglKIW39i88eqAVa76ekKpnfW8WBaeHp5LdaTjMcSqmouSV3KGOGrR3gIUx5pIHYH73_AkiBZIgLrqOD47uySQs_1Z73za0TCGeM1hG9hUY8QqTmVzMBuE0lzqZ1xuRMt1RR8k/s640/Photo+May+20%252C+9+00+43+PM.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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9. <b>2002 Frederic Esmonin Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru</b> - the most elevated grand cru at the dinner, from an excellent vintage, this wine should have been fantastic. But the truth is it was relatively uninteresting, and perhaps too young and undeveloped (?) Not bad but nothing special. Bummer. Frederic Esmonin is much better known for his Ruchottes-Chambertin, so I was not totally surprised that his Beze did not shine.<br />
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10. <b>2000 Nicolas Potel Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru</b> - I have had this wine a number of times over the last few years and it has never disappointed, as first described in <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2013/04/inspired-by-clos-st-denis-grand-cru.html">my ecstatic note</a> three years ago. It has continued to evolve and is getting better. This was the bottle I brought, and funny enough, it had been imported by Atherton. It was stellar this time too, with pungent, vibrant, powerful, complex cherry, pomegranate and forest notes, clearly grand cru weight and intensity. Drinking well now, but no hurry.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-f2bEQ4jge6Cu_fvmba_d36i0VZkepKhRaXrjw15CuMioG4QE4eU5NxjNfB2hIJtVDGbvUJ9pm4KuDd09nZrAMa66Yq2hfMUYH5OFTLF7yL216cDxPuLiGf610m28U27_rl7jkpO8sGw/s1600/Photo+May+20%252C+9+28+58+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-f2bEQ4jge6Cu_fvmba_d36i0VZkepKhRaXrjw15CuMioG4QE4eU5NxjNfB2hIJtVDGbvUJ9pm4KuDd09nZrAMa66Yq2hfMUYH5OFTLF7yL216cDxPuLiGf610m28U27_rl7jkpO8sGw/s400/Photo+May+20%252C+9+28+58+PM.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNSyQ0kbFeAEy7QOfY8veshdYiPbcGtjhqZ6Wo2XZOS_e5ZiApQSSX0shyjl34T1l4LUVG6ENcWwP8k2a08vRAXIBgccwhGLLyuYikBQ1EhgM-3Z12mV2ZohmWHpMoQtpTF2D_PSG6R0k/s1600/Photo+May+20%252C+9+35+45+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNSyQ0kbFeAEy7QOfY8veshdYiPbcGtjhqZ6Wo2XZOS_e5ZiApQSSX0shyjl34T1l4LUVG6ENcWwP8k2a08vRAXIBgccwhGLLyuYikBQ1EhgM-3Z12mV2ZohmWHpMoQtpTF2D_PSG6R0k/s400/Photo+May+20%252C+9+35+45+PM.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
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The wonderful evening organized by the gracious hosts underscored the versatility and charm of Burgundy. Having multiple bottles of Le Moine, Groffier, and Charles Van Canneyt, and that's before even getting to grand cru's, is not something that happens every day, and in fact, each bottle would have brought great pleasure to accompany a whole meal all by itself. Drinking them all in one evening was clearly too much "fun", and I paid the price (of hangover) the next day, but who's complaining?Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-71497463170730165522016-03-13T22:52:00.002-07:002016-03-15T00:18:04.086-07:00La Paulee San Francisco 2016 - Featuring 2013 BurgundiesAnother La Paulee is in the books. The 2016 edition roared through San Francisco to the delight of Burgundy lovers. The 3-hour (all-too-short) Grand Tasting focused on the 2013 vintage, and it did not disappoint. The reds and whites across the board showed clear and consistent vintage characteristics. For the reds, this meant tart acidity and sufficient ripeness and depth without overt over-ripeness, suppleness or fat of such recent years as 2009 and 2012. The whites were consistently excellent, with high acidities, citrus, minerality, crystalline purity, and loads of grip. The best reds I think came from higher cru's, which had a bit more flesh on the bones to balance out the high acidity of the year. Same with whites - the higher cru's with a bit more sweetness were well balanced by a level of freshness and purity rarely seen. I have generally recommended caution with 2013 whites, as this is a rather leaner, high-acidity vintage. The tasting did not change my mind, but it also confirmed that good producers made classic white burgundies from great terroirs. From my limited experience tasting the 2014 whites, that appears to be a much surer vintage across the board, with more flesh and slightly better balance. Yet, the 13's tasted here were beauties that will deliver pleasure over many years.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj2dINh0JEo9_ufSDabj3RIeUt230Z-R6c-bCjjo5K45A4Qm1oqEal_RK__yf4-raga0dDV99J4UPJMXeqmblZOZJ2cdcKiD8SW-zofuH3QHin6fHq_aLNClqsBF1g_PsGQxTRlp4sM3I/s1600/IMG_2981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj2dINh0JEo9_ufSDabj3RIeUt230Z-R6c-bCjjo5K45A4Qm1oqEal_RK__yf4-raga0dDV99J4UPJMXeqmblZOZJ2cdcKiD8SW-zofuH3QHin6fHq_aLNClqsBF1g_PsGQxTRlp4sM3I/s320/IMG_2981.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">w/ Jean-Marie Fourrier</td></tr>
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Overall, in terms of the entire lineups presented at the tasting, the most consistently delicious producers were Fourrier, Hudelot-Noellat, Drouhin, Chateau de la Tour, Bernard Moreau and Antoine Jobbard. Obviously it's hard to omit Roulot, Lafon , Dujac, Mortet, Lamy, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey from this list, and they certainly poured excellent wines, some of which were among the very best, and I would be happy with any of their wines in my cellar, but they just didn't impress me across the board quite as much.<br />
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The top 3 reds of the tasting for me were Fourrier Clos St Jacques, Mortet Lavaux St Jacques, and Hudelot-Noellat RSV. Arnaud Mortet noted the lowering of new oak in his Lavaux in the last few vintages. I think the sleeker, slightly more angular style of 2013 also worked well in the wine, giving it a level of definition and elegance I hadn't seen since Arnaud took over. Among the whites, Bernard Moreau Grandes Ruchottes, Drouhin Batard, and Comtes Lafon Charmes were the most memorable.<br />
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Other notable reds were Domaine Jean Grivot Les Beaux Monts, Dujac Aux Combottes and Clos de la Roche, Chateau de la Tour (all wines), Lafon (Santenots), Hudelot-Noellat (Vosne villages, NSG Murgers), Jadot (Ursules), Drouhin (Chambolle 1er & Clos Vougeot), Camille-Giroud (Santenots), and Chandon des Briailles (Corton-Bressandes).<br />
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Other notable whites were Domaine Lamy (En Remilly), Paul Pillot (Grand Ruchottes & La Romanee), Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey (Chassagne Caillerets & Meursault Genevrieres), Roulot (the whole lineup), Antoine Jobbard (the whole lineup), Pierre Labet (of Chateau de la Tour -- Meursault Tillets), Mikulski (Poruzots, Goutte d'Or).<br />
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I must mention the wines of Nicolas Rossignol. They were very distinctive and obviously good quality, but they surprised me with high level of extraction and power, unparalleled at the tasting. The acidity of the year helped balance the wines. Still, I was taken aback by how potently concentrated and ripe they seemed, making me wonder about the alcohol level. Another interesting showing was from Benjamin Leroux, whose Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs was very pretty and distinctive and Clos St Denis tasted like a beautiful fruity Barbaresco, delicious but perhaps not exactly what I expect from a burgundy. A few people remarked how much they liked the wines of Grivot. Unfortunately, to me they were too reduced (full of meaty stink and coffee grinds) to appreciate, other than Vosne Beauxmonts which showed enough fruit underneath the mild stink to give a glimpse of future potential. Chandon de Briailles' lineup of two Pernand-Vergelesses and Corton Bressandes was very solid. Camille-Giraud's David Croix is getting much recognition these days in the wine community, but unfortunately only his Volnay Santenots showed well, while NSG Boudots and Clos Vougeot were just so-so for me.<br />
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And now, for reference, here are my rushed tasting notes. Apologies in advance for missing some of the wines and providing rather insufficient notes for many others. Although every two years I try to refine my tasting strategy and tactics, three hours is clearly not enough for this caliber of tasting. Oh well...<br />
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Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin vv - plush, fruity, delicious<br />
Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Les Gruenchers - spice, crunchy red fruits, silky<br />
Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Cherbaudes - long, perfumed, silky, tart and suave<br />
Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St-Jacques - silky, plush, gorgeous hints of blueberry, cream, pepper, dark pine forest, great wine<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEOFaLzQprfzSuH6waxWWb_kd0zPZrqaz0BcbDTCRjNunk2ORQTO-NJb50B1q6lzcPcgaCXeASEATqOpBKjZBiJy109_uPasIcNF8oAIPk_CXAEx4JdiA9FSAEigdy8jLfbOCDAmJpwrc/s1600/IMG_2979.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEOFaLzQprfzSuH6waxWWb_kd0zPZrqaz0BcbDTCRjNunk2ORQTO-NJb50B1q6lzcPcgaCXeASEATqOpBKjZBiJy109_uPasIcNF8oAIPk_CXAEx4JdiA9FSAEigdy8jLfbOCDAmJpwrc/s640/IMG_2979.JPG" /></a><br />
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Domaine Dujac Morey-St-Denis - savory, stem, nice and smooth, a hint of earth and leather<br />
Domaine Dujac Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru - savory, tannic, quite tart with green peppercorns<br />
Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes - nice spice, more volume and precision, red fruits<br />
Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche - darker fruits, stems are evident but in a classy way, quite silky<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheChhRPgQfF8KoUp20v_FBWR4InmQGX_R4Cn57MJIXfi0eJtVv6Ca5OQQ7_Crj0f0EEODNdSO8FtFtPSrUsZayy-_llNSmwd31FVEbcDJyme1P7wI9Jq8hDbcJk_h-PWIREE8wEsN3bk4/s1600/IMG_2983.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheChhRPgQfF8KoUp20v_FBWR4InmQGX_R4Cn57MJIXfi0eJtVv6Ca5OQQ7_Crj0f0EEODNdSO8FtFtPSrUsZayy-_llNSmwd31FVEbcDJyme1P7wI9Jq8hDbcJk_h-PWIREE8wEsN3bk4/s640/IMG_2983.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">w/ Jeremy Seysses of Domaine Dujac</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixVv3qOevtHdQzGLd49fkpRnX6S3eil6wgLVYnWBK7Yy8NIZKbHdAI6geGd7cLpD7BoqX6z02ExXyycj-QkQk0VUiC7Llld49ZvUXFlpHJCZ_0R2rued-OpjPtMMEt9LatP0zp2zXjt_I/s1600/IMG_2982.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixVv3qOevtHdQzGLd49fkpRnX6S3eil6wgLVYnWBK7Yy8NIZKbHdAI6geGd7cLpD7BoqX6z02ExXyycj-QkQk0VUiC7Llld49ZvUXFlpHJCZ_0R2rued-OpjPtMMEt9LatP0zp2zXjt_I/s640/IMG_2982.JPG" /></a><br />
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Denis Mortet Fixin vv - creamy nose, creamy tart red fruit<br />
Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs - tart, silky, creamy<br />
Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru - plusher, fuller, suave, very nice<br />
Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques - great, darker tone, perfect silkiness, great balance, new oak in 60-70% since 2011 or 2012.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgh62xRyxzCS6naolktX_W5hyUraL_-BbviYOeFEy1WbktFsu1FVO4SCYrxd3FIrWc_FKWajgc8wzosm3YYekdgh2gSDA6CVhw5kKyd54RzkVRqbQVXBbLprD8Ss-pdJowqJbsQ_xFYPk/s1600/IMG_2985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgh62xRyxzCS6naolktX_W5hyUraL_-BbviYOeFEy1WbktFsu1FVO4SCYrxd3FIrWc_FKWajgc8wzosm3YYekdgh2gSDA6CVhw5kKyd54RzkVRqbQVXBbLprD8Ss-pdJowqJbsQ_xFYPk/s640/IMG_2985.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arnaud Mortet</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilH7UqrzG9o_2Quh8OH7xKok01U8tVQYcaf9gyMuD0vV7Lzf4sS7IhaIs-uPEDEspf6WB7yzR7IaZ3cgK3EotX_t58gCGS0Z6bEF3F7xOsw4_OVbD5vynbob_x-v43dSQS-722NTl5wlw/s1600/IMG_2984.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilH7UqrzG9o_2Quh8OH7xKok01U8tVQYcaf9gyMuD0vV7Lzf4sS7IhaIs-uPEDEspf6WB7yzR7IaZ3cgK3EotX_t58gCGS0Z6bEF3F7xOsw4_OVbD5vynbob_x-v43dSQS-722NTl5wlw/s640/IMG_2984.JPG" /></a><br />
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Camille-Giroud Volnay Santenots - rich, very well balanced, dark fruits, spice, very nice<br />
Camille-Giroud Nuits-St-Georges Aux Boudots - oak nose, toasty oak palate<br />
Camille-Giroud Clos de Vougeot - very primary, good balance, but not special, just ok for me<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5dUypaTS8sjnMsScoZ2BCZnrqeGN7swLslqH79UTCS6-8hTAFMj7z6qmyECMZO_-gFl5XJ7wWCACPhfzphZk_GB_FjPkXYzecmikF9QEG1yZvze6Fg7OsGLC9bldfyzF86F8-0gVWoJo/s1600/IMG_2987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5dUypaTS8sjnMsScoZ2BCZnrqeGN7swLslqH79UTCS6-8hTAFMj7z6qmyECMZO_-gFl5XJ7wWCACPhfzphZk_GB_FjPkXYzecmikF9QEG1yZvze6Fg7OsGLC9bldfyzF86F8-0gVWoJo/s640/IMG_2987.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">w/ David Croix of Camille-Giroud</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUL4T99IwgWako8MlhivelP7kUCBFKFKKg5j2u9-vUF7W9Z8jjIlgiQLySpZq0mfggeeL_e6SX2fEyKPk3TqXnlcpxkI7Fm9e1ogsXCtbboBByBsVCaSwXTPbw9B9ESMyzCeuhn9v_mio/s1600/IMG_2988.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUL4T99IwgWako8MlhivelP7kUCBFKFKKg5j2u9-vUF7W9Z8jjIlgiQLySpZq0mfggeeL_e6SX2fEyKPk3TqXnlcpxkI7Fm9e1ogsXCtbboBByBsVCaSwXTPbw9B9ESMyzCeuhn9v_mio/s640/IMG_2988.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru - silky smooth, very pretty, creamy, nice<br />
Drouhin Clos de Vougeot - intense, pure, penetrating, balanced, some vanilla, very nice<br />
Drouhin Batard-Montrachet - intense, zesty, oyster, grippy, long.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-2QT6EMZtplcUrQMJpLIkKXL_7S9lAhhIN072tin9Dc8p_Z2mvm22PmR-ac-FfWHyt4OsQzfrBbT_o9ADZZtjeVQcDo1_JyNJ4xXEiLeU5iDr-SvApRaL4hocEwzvjiWS1OEgjQsPDk/s1600/IMG_2989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-2QT6EMZtplcUrQMJpLIkKXL_7S9lAhhIN072tin9Dc8p_Z2mvm22PmR-ac-FfWHyt4OsQzfrBbT_o9ADZZtjeVQcDo1_JyNJ4xXEiLeU5iDr-SvApRaL4hocEwzvjiWS1OEgjQsPDk/s640/IMG_2989.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Veronique Drouhin-Boss</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Grivot Vosne-Romanee - stinky, reduced, meaty nose, similar palate, like out of a can<br />
Grivot Nuits-St-Georges Aux Boudots - tannic, stem, spice<br />
Grivot Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts - again reduced nose, but the palate is silk fruit, good intensity, very nice, other than reduction, long creamy aftertaste with lingering tannins and sweatness that comes on later.<br />
Grivot Clos de Vougeot - oak, tart, tannic<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVDdIug8yUuEi8cTcvH3cYyRscoSusSNp7fnjvepOqC8gXCaQPib91-3K6vptryGod0zKx9VE1G6cb0zSU5SEBpCaay57Kr6NqGcnF1ZOXA3C4t6JdFKa7Ft9onWcg_TweNAUovGJMa_E/s1600/IMG_2990.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVDdIug8yUuEi8cTcvH3cYyRscoSusSNp7fnjvepOqC8gXCaQPib91-3K6vptryGod0zKx9VE1G6cb0zSU5SEBpCaay57Kr6NqGcnF1ZOXA3C4t6JdFKa7Ft9onWcg_TweNAUovGJMa_E/s640/IMG_2990.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanee - whiff of vanilla nose. The palate - oooh very nice, clean, focused, balanced, nothing sticks out<br />
Hudelot-Noellat Nuits-St-Georges Les Murgers - very smooth, nice spices, tannins, quite good<br />
Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots - smooth, less focused than previous wines<br />
Hudelot-Noellat Romanee-St-Vivant - excellent, feminine, delicate, silk and lace, sweet and perfumed, vanilla and flowers<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS9kHmf6zWVJ9O80t6n8uka2c1ckI6XZnVSmlaKRBD4qTMJ3ckKoWvRNrAl3q38LbOV75ELGRtkYQYFNbwRRQXB8n21aWR5dzh9Ykf23_0sW_hPDgSeLL66M55moRV6Rt4k0ASCVcJdZw/s1600/IMG_2994.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS9kHmf6zWVJ9O80t6n8uka2c1ckI6XZnVSmlaKRBD4qTMJ3ckKoWvRNrAl3q38LbOV75ELGRtkYQYFNbwRRQXB8n21aWR5dzh9Ykf23_0sW_hPDgSeLL66M55moRV6Rt4k0ASCVcJdZw/s640/IMG_2994.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Van Canneyt of Domaine Hudelot-Noellat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEfea7jRd6G_0-5WaDUZhnue7ytsYMJtuKiSJTi-aqbYT75mQR-UgQ-aKXr_G4NfiNSovANHpjVFTi2O1tmwfK-3t89MDfH3pNoxvsbrB57bHHrpgwh_ZCuV8-VU8AUCaeKXVjiPs3To8/s1600/IMG_2993.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEfea7jRd6G_0-5WaDUZhnue7ytsYMJtuKiSJTi-aqbYT75mQR-UgQ-aKXr_G4NfiNSovANHpjVFTi2O1tmwfK-3t89MDfH3pNoxvsbrB57bHHrpgwh_ZCuV8-VU8AUCaeKXVjiPs3To8/s640/IMG_2993.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Benjamin Leroux Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs - ooh, pretty mint spice, nice.<br />
Benjamin Leroux Clos St Denis - beautiful fruit jam nose, reminds me of Barbaresco, similar on the palate - very Barbaresco-like, vanilla, tart creamy raspberries<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjarmdL7uY8m2hjanjIG-BqqEgJ4FoTvkYbg9XZMpWL3U2coOl1vtou5dDDMNobmwnF4E6ScYzBFrOu0l5AH6Ln6AB7M6Oi0iChtXVarbQIQe5etvrDoCGXs2O2ydsvbZBooL-w2Am691s/s1600/IMG_2995.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjarmdL7uY8m2hjanjIG-BqqEgJ4FoTvkYbg9XZMpWL3U2coOl1vtou5dDDMNobmwnF4E6ScYzBFrOu0l5AH6Ln6AB7M6Oi0iChtXVarbQIQe5etvrDoCGXs2O2ydsvbZBooL-w2Am691s/s640/IMG_2995.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Benjamin Leroux</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Jadot Beaune Clos des Ursules - very good, deep, tannic, dark fruit, mint, I like it.<br />
Jadot Corton Pougets - tart, meaty, sleek dark fruit, quite nice<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG2YAP3anQxAx9xduM9i1z8-cBUCn7qs7yN_ozchHftCueTs6YRqYv25vXdMa12SgaL6zpsZMUnfYNa29pRp-0JfSXUtOfobhD01xLmKTDxd1f1u7awJUFJ1mmKz3Sn-klLcTkI9f6d8U/s1600/IMG_2997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG2YAP3anQxAx9xduM9i1z8-cBUCn7qs7yN_ozchHftCueTs6YRqYv25vXdMa12SgaL6zpsZMUnfYNa29pRp-0JfSXUtOfobhD01xLmKTDxd1f1u7awJUFJ1mmKz3Sn-klLcTkI9f6d8U/s640/IMG_2997.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thibault Gagey of Louis Jadot and Resonance (Jadot venture in Oregon)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses Les Vergelesses - quite nice, tart, sleek, but enough sweetness<br />
Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses Ile des Vergelesses - stem, riper and more suave<br />
Chandon de Briailles Corton Bressandes - stem nose, dark, quite serious, long finish, I like it.<br />
Chandon de Briailles Corton (blanc) - just ok, not memorable<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvaBUnvrwIIYF-2j15Mq4DvGB_xPmrfy2FwS_TGk7ZdSaYpmxzOGZCV0v9jINotYXx7jQC4Y74WvYKqH9aWkgYva5XOGKymOfWihEGRyvuEnQvV3t7F3TaQDu039kseSeAvfe0uRhayI/s1600/IMG_2998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvaBUnvrwIIYF-2j15Mq4DvGB_xPmrfy2FwS_TGk7ZdSaYpmxzOGZCV0v9jINotYXx7jQC4Y74WvYKqH9aWkgYva5XOGKymOfWihEGRyvuEnQvV3t7F3TaQDu039kseSeAvfe0uRhayI/s640/IMG_2998.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Claude de Nicolay of Domaine Chandon de Briailles</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Chateau de la Tour Clos Vougeot classique - perfume, great tannic palate, delicious fruit, structure.<br />
Chateau de la Tour Clos Vougeot vv - focused, pure, intense, long, tighter than the classique<br />
Pierre Labet Beaune Coucherias - sweet stems, perfume, vanilla, soft tannins, very nice<br />
Pierre Labet Meursault Les Tillets - wow, great spice.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjABAywV5awhji1ZT3yO3xpNYYjW8KNJHBQ1SZp8xowjV8LsqDRhA0t2OMNoDcGDIVfmogQUP7A6tCiqZWs63kFCBylWd4M2PVdiwjwzZ5UTxnaqtTkrOGEfpjQCI6ueLNJfbbbKMm4xcM/s1600/IMG_2999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjABAywV5awhji1ZT3yO3xpNYYjW8KNJHBQ1SZp8xowjV8LsqDRhA0t2OMNoDcGDIVfmogQUP7A6tCiqZWs63kFCBylWd4M2PVdiwjwzZ5UTxnaqtTkrOGEfpjQCI6ueLNJfbbbKMm4xcM/s640/IMG_2999.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Francois Labet of Chateau de la Tour and Domaine Pierre Labet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Hospices de Beaune Pommard Epenots "Cuvee Dom Goblet" - meaty, reduced nose. Palate: plush fruit, quite silky<br />
Hospices de Beaune Corton "Cuvee Charlotte Dumay" - soft, vanilla, hint of meat, very nice and tasty<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5G54UtwKxiKvxi1NibmQFaoc948hSkJsWYlvPR5fujvKbJ_iMOT-oSnHQvdj-JRLRdmxOrpM_EQE_5dqk6Jdqec8TbMuR1EnCXSse4DChZnnmaY5miVA4ikt9MW6HPvCCoAs18cXcw8c/s1600/IMG_3001.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5G54UtwKxiKvxi1NibmQFaoc948hSkJsWYlvPR5fujvKbJ_iMOT-oSnHQvdj-JRLRdmxOrpM_EQE_5dqk6Jdqec8TbMuR1EnCXSse4DChZnnmaY5miVA4ikt9MW6HPvCCoAs18cXcw8c/s640/IMG_3001.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Nicolas Rossignol Volnay Clos des Angles - sweet, intense, wow big wine!<br />
Nicolas Rossignol Volnay Chevret - very stemmy, intense, wow tannic big wine!<br />
Nicolas Rossignol Volnay Cailleret - meaty, more elegant, spicy, wow that's a long finish<br />
Nicolas Rossignol Volnay Santenots - very intense, rich and ripe, meaty<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga5g5FJMkNvWFg2WM2RIcj_bJJflnhcfrjDaTOcSAlsfI3o2e4u0HuPqeWLtsbus1-emxH9ugqhmXzT01VtCjxC7kKyNfD9g-0zXJRSidm3e0hQna6Ke4nwFiYhooJKDzaJvQEr5UpWSU/s1600/IMG_3017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga5g5FJMkNvWFg2WM2RIcj_bJJflnhcfrjDaTOcSAlsfI3o2e4u0HuPqeWLtsbus1-emxH9ugqhmXzT01VtCjxC7kKyNfD9g-0zXJRSidm3e0hQna6Ke4nwFiYhooJKDzaJvQEr5UpWSU/s640/IMG_3017.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nicolas Rossignol</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Lamy St Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard - orange and cream<br />
Lamy St Aubin Les Frionnes - lemon/lime and slate<br />
Lamy St Aubin Clos de la Chateniere - nose of spice, flower pollen and white pepper, long creamy finish<br />
Lamy St Aubin En Remilly - more volume, slightly sweeter<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKRIU1Tk_9MYUhbVDA5aF7wHAtWfA0EUG-i4hPTZkPGi9abuHICL_99Rm-ETmUEZBSvnEcxVDhieazqnWvMLVV8kY4ZcKnK7ss9op_XwOw0HgnrFpmhuzN60U0ZOqy0a2nVaR4cYk4JPg/s1600/IMG_3020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKRIU1Tk_9MYUhbVDA5aF7wHAtWfA0EUG-i4hPTZkPGi9abuHICL_99Rm-ETmUEZBSvnEcxVDhieazqnWvMLVV8kY4ZcKnK7ss9op_XwOw0HgnrFpmhuzN60U0ZOqy0a2nVaR4cYk4JPg/s640/IMG_3020.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Olivier Lamy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet -- ooh nice and sweet, really delicious<br />
Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes - full, ripe, great acid, intense and flavorful<br />
Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie - a bit fresher with floral spice, tons of perfume in my mouth, grippy<br />
Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Les Grandes Ruchottes - sweet, spicy, floral, intense, hint of honey, but fresh with lime acidity. Great.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjjo26RP8skNCV4Kchmvzpyes-sScUqyLOnfqg3FRoBiJyN5j4G3as_zm_IdjMU6uPmWN-TTtdWqD_ofkymkoj2mq0tEjp8Q80jjWLXH8M43qYvJZVG45ChJJPWD8dnJ9RD40Am0pOp9s/s1600/IMG_3023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjjo26RP8skNCV4Kchmvzpyes-sScUqyLOnfqg3FRoBiJyN5j4G3as_zm_IdjMU6uPmWN-TTtdWqD_ofkymkoj2mq0tEjp8Q80jjWLXH8M43qYvJZVG45ChJJPWD8dnJ9RD40Am0pOp9s/s640/IMG_3023.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexandre Moreau</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK8vIj1ushvJ4bsp8-M5f2bMunypbDkOqyiOq0CbW2VEQcfB52AKMzrU0XmSrcfBAgt4K9plerqfQ5o7LO4nFWisnmykZkQwOzDomKs2zchtuVGB9dnTjMqjQMmFpVmrh0pagKajNRkfo/s1600/IMG_3022.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK8vIj1ushvJ4bsp8-M5f2bMunypbDkOqyiOq0CbW2VEQcfB52AKMzrU0XmSrcfBAgt4K9plerqfQ5o7LO4nFWisnmykZkQwOzDomKs2zchtuVGB9dnTjMqjQMmFpVmrh0pagKajNRkfo/s640/IMG_3022.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Paul Pillot Chassange-Montrachet Clos St Jean - spice, stone, cream, very nice<br />
Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets - stony, lime, tannic grip<br />
Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Les Grand Ruchottes - mineral, grippy, high acid, consistent with vintage<br />
Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanee - intense mineral, fresh, really good<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUinmGbLQwEfaKkgtUROPnf3Kmpa22gV2WBEza1Okt3aqNnY1mqX3kcOqST7X943YO7r3lmZ4jOotzf_IElDejjQ_FJ1t94B1sDCWToAjAnhjcQ0PHrLymjv_cldxmjhBZ_K5vXYDE7U8/s1600/IMG_3024.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUinmGbLQwEfaKkgtUROPnf3Kmpa22gV2WBEza1Okt3aqNnY1mqX3kcOqST7X943YO7r3lmZ4jOotzf_IElDejjQ_FJ1t94B1sDCWToAjAnhjcQ0PHrLymjv_cldxmjhBZ_K5vXYDE7U8/s640/IMG_3024.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
(2014) Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey St Aubin Chateniere - viscous, flowers, lime, stone, intense<br />
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnieres - riper, cream, minerals<br />
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets - more viscous, spicy, lime, cream, long finish<br />
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault Les Genevrieres - honey, flowers, cream. I like the sweet and acidic combo. The honey really makes this stand out. Lovely.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyChIYP3b-P5kUiRieXRYucmqvUeritHMCAX4cwCuWIA1mGNkgxSD-ZvFeb3DqC1Kn8TQgQU7e2hqxnGzxy_epC9MG3szhhIKExEwiDFwgIonWQ6y4o71d0mVWJzYwizq39T7rHaYlhws/s1600/IMG_3026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyChIYP3b-P5kUiRieXRYucmqvUeritHMCAX4cwCuWIA1mGNkgxSD-ZvFeb3DqC1Kn8TQgQU7e2hqxnGzxy_epC9MG3szhhIKExEwiDFwgIonWQ6y4o71d0mVWJzYwizq39T7rHaYlhws/s640/IMG_3026.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">w/ Pierre-Yves Colin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6rseK2_KpNnAbhN7NpTaCk7WMlCJW5n-vTkEH2xaEcRpix_N77t7vwfaDaW9p1UVxiiRE3emhQDV0ns24UnCN7HLobTVVadQr91Cp0JPi92Y9fl1d_ERqYstqJjn228DomTV2z1cev_4/s1600/IMG_3025.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6rseK2_KpNnAbhN7NpTaCk7WMlCJW5n-vTkEH2xaEcRpix_N77t7vwfaDaW9p1UVxiiRE3emhQDV0ns24UnCN7HLobTVVadQr91Cp0JPi92Y9fl1d_ERqYstqJjn228DomTV2z1cev_4/s640/IMG_3025.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Roulot Bourgogne Blanc - intense, sweet, concentrated for the level<br />
Roulot Meursault Meix Chavaux - straw, long mineral finish<br />
Roulot Meursault Tesson Clos de mon Plaisir - sweet and mineral, grippy<br />
Roulot Meursault Clos des Boucheres - spice, grippy, sweet.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEips9_eejdnxuK5ez_vYQLbrA5RZBEbotgQCxL9bwUa6c-lEoIGVMXczk3_wkfT1cTJuE_yDUW6xXmfzXQ5dsr9r_IOKXjvxlacXv6MIXPmrv3F_yHqyAe-Cop7a3Zph4BERKn8Fv_hniA/s1600/IMG_3036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEips9_eejdnxuK5ez_vYQLbrA5RZBEbotgQCxL9bwUa6c-lEoIGVMXczk3_wkfT1cTJuE_yDUW6xXmfzXQ5dsr9r_IOKXjvxlacXv6MIXPmrv3F_yHqyAe-Cop7a3Zph4BERKn8Fv_hniA/s640/IMG_3036.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">w/ Jean-Marc Roulot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjczC4jkmgeQ7gatZP-WG6rhszN76ess5hqUXtBUxL0-f7ZfhP44RVaIpGqweAractjUh-rUe4J7tvbS7mfvOa7wLMKaMGgC7VX-V2vS12YI_m219te06-15KQIJKZcUR7V_nM1vispJpk/s1600/IMG_3027.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjczC4jkmgeQ7gatZP-WG6rhszN76ess5hqUXtBUxL0-f7ZfhP44RVaIpGqweAractjUh-rUe4J7tvbS7mfvOa7wLMKaMGgC7VX-V2vS12YI_m219te06-15KQIJKZcUR7V_nM1vispJpk/s640/IMG_3027.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Comtes Lafon Meursault - nice, rich and full<br />
Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre - flowers, lime, perfume in my mouth<br />
Comtes Lafon Meursault Charmes - nose of straw. Wow, intense, pure, expands in my mouth. Cream, perfect balance, big step up from Clos de la Barre.<br />
Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu - spice, nice grip, intense and focused. Good.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz3it235H5nNB-7mD33zEb_pnOZz46_o9ILXbdRM2D72BiSGYYRAPYIKqhhxwX2vR48yeoewj87fOha80307yXiUoIps9XWO9v0mmtryLuLvdTdDYkye5pPx5tkMj8h_njfNLlo64IRxc/s1600/IMG_3029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz3it235H5nNB-7mD33zEb_pnOZz46_o9ILXbdRM2D72BiSGYYRAPYIKqhhxwX2vR48yeoewj87fOha80307yXiUoIps9XWO9v0mmtryLuLvdTdDYkye5pPx5tkMj8h_njfNLlo64IRxc/s640/IMG_3029.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dominique Lafon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
Antoine Jobbard Meursault En la Barre - intense, iodine<br />
Antoine Jobbard Meursault Blagny - same style as above<br />
Antoine Jobbard Meursault Poruzots - similar, intense chalk, creamy aftertaste<br />
Antoine Jobbard Meursault Genevrieres - sweet<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdMvp84U2mmGljBN6beii89lyhQNpEbdhgzhZgi_D_24VE3acFgBzNuPuqWILJJLer_LpHD3Tv5HErlAbiQOYb8Mxl9K8trAP0IC23H84QN-6hljuLceB5LWBPBvUGoZbYx2Xs49N_so0/s1600/IMG_3033.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdMvp84U2mmGljBN6beii89lyhQNpEbdhgzhZgi_D_24VE3acFgBzNuPuqWILJJLer_LpHD3Tv5HErlAbiQOYb8Mxl9K8trAP0IC23H84QN-6hljuLceB5LWBPBvUGoZbYx2Xs49N_so0/s640/IMG_3033.JPG" /></a><br />
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Thierry & Pascale Matrot Meursault Charmes - a lot of spice, rather ripe and spicy<br />
Pierre Matrot Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux - really ripe and spicy, almost painfully<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0SwJdySJk3eKgKIU97C605yHu2xajW6UM08k1SjWwWKgE1NsM4czLARQG3tFmDf9n-p7TVgOsQGBWkfTuhsTXyp6d1Z_rgExJFO5YukZ_55vroY34krSGbJOTFWseDJl1tWaupN96ovM/s1600/IMG_3035.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0SwJdySJk3eKgKIU97C605yHu2xajW6UM08k1SjWwWKgE1NsM4czLARQG3tFmDf9n-p7TVgOsQGBWkfTuhsTXyp6d1Z_rgExJFO5YukZ_55vroY34krSGbJOTFWseDJl1tWaupN96ovM/s640/IMG_3035.JPG" /></a><br />
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<br />
Francois Mikulski Meursault Poruzots - delicious<br />
Francois Mikulski Meursault Charmes - high acid<br />
Francois Mikuslki Meursault Goutte d'Or - grip, intense lime and mineral<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi65OTxxW5ZNNTWp3wUmBSIAWfEKIFXLmPMDdK8KEpV2bBeRSD7xQxNXjAfp5IhgMBbIvxeU1M3FcDq1iIz18xQ0M5XCLbDIDSNEjbAXc3l2JTZZtBdpsduux33cbnuCExoCa8ZCE8QH78/s1600/IMG_3037.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi65OTxxW5ZNNTWp3wUmBSIAWfEKIFXLmPMDdK8KEpV2bBeRSD7xQxNXjAfp5IhgMBbIvxeU1M3FcDq1iIz18xQ0M5XCLbDIDSNEjbAXc3l2JTZZtBdpsduux33cbnuCExoCa8ZCE8QH78/s640/IMG_3037.JPG" /></a><br />
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Truly an embarrassment of riches, so to speak, the 2013 vintage gave us many delicious wines which don't seem to need a very extended cellaring. Already showing well, perhaps a few more years will better meld the fruit and acid.<br />
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(The 2014 coverage of the 2011 vintage two years ago was documented <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2014/03/la-paulee-san-francisco-2014-2011.html">here</a>.)Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-8570656962325499692016-02-10T05:53:00.001-08:002016-02-10T06:12:51.833-08:00La Paulee 2016 coming to San Francisco<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi48dTtb49rE1m1ouoL5U5HhvxQ38zZLquMqP9e-fbWdA37WP_YhZUYlGuux34ilKDSfbH7L7hNLIEYhj5QgxtVMfgU1nDEIZXAeblyyxubbmgpJZCaifDPP7YYiayLdJO8nWeUzFNLZas/s1600/paulee+dude.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi48dTtb49rE1m1ouoL5U5HhvxQ38zZLquMqP9e-fbWdA37WP_YhZUYlGuux34ilKDSfbH7L7hNLIEYhj5QgxtVMfgU1nDEIZXAeblyyxubbmgpJZCaifDPP7YYiayLdJO8nWeUzFNLZas/s200/paulee+dude.jpg" width="146" /></a></div>
This year the much heralded <b><a href="http://lapaulee.com/index.php">La Paulee</a></b> event comes back to San Francisco (last year was in New York), with the focus on 2013 vintage in Burgundy. It really needs no advertisement, the event tends to be fully booked, regardless of the lofty admission price tags, because of the quality of wineries and wines showcased there, and the grandeur of the events. I will be attending the grand tasting for the 4th time in a row, and this tends to be my most memorable wine event of the year, and the opportunity to taste once-in-a-lifetime burgundies and rub elbows with gods of the wine world. Last time in SF (in 2014) featured the 2011 vintage and was covered <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2014/03/la-paulee-san-francisco-2014-2011.html">here</a>.<br />
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I will point out a couple of lesser known events in the week-long La Paulee program. The <b>Off Grid</b> tasting and the <b>Roulot Play</b>.<br />
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The Off Grid "Tasting of Burgundy's Hidden Gems" event showcases 50 wineries from Burgundy's less premium appellations and up-and-coming winemakers, along with small plates from SF's trendy restaurants. For more info, click <a href="http://lapaulee.com/programs_tickets_details.php?id=17">here</a>.<br />
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The Roulot Play is unexpectedly a theater act by one of Burgundy's preeminent winemakers - Jean-Marc Roulot, who also happens to be an accomplished actor. He will be starring in Meursault Les Luchets 2011, A Play by Jean-Marc Roulot. This sounds cool! See details <a href="http://lapaulee.com/programs_tickets_details.php?id=20">here</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV8SLnSu1d3cynm6uowpq3cBPR9zHLkP5qfW01why8kJDy0s73PeAqyx_ShSAw2s9_AINgeb5wPLfI2Yxk7SP9YX77XrowROz8Ra-mhTRnPPZPmZ-y-esdWQ1N1M6FiUspfI3IWxU3bB0/s1600/Roulot.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV8SLnSu1d3cynm6uowpq3cBPR9zHLkP5qfW01why8kJDy0s73PeAqyx_ShSAw2s9_AINgeb5wPLfI2Yxk7SP9YX77XrowROz8Ra-mhTRnPPZPmZ-y-esdWQ1N1M6FiUspfI3IWxU3bB0/s1600/Roulot.jpg" /></a><br />
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Enjoy! And hope to see you there!Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-9372810864204053492016-02-07T12:30:00.002-08:002016-02-10T05:28:02.416-08:00Rombauer VineyardsI don't always drink new-world Chardonnay, but when I do, it's Rombauer! Stay thirsty, my friends!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YxdFf1hJd1d3EdohV_aE9187W_gu14IbKt4sRv4gRRmEcQ-fUtnRpqnBxdmvJB6RDQ0Q85fQlQhrElOG-XBnbpKWyeq438XinrLyoEy8zVNC02zz33D0o6bgSJFaWfw9-zjO5z7gN00/s1600/Rombauer+1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YxdFf1hJd1d3EdohV_aE9187W_gu14IbKt4sRv4gRRmEcQ-fUtnRpqnBxdmvJB6RDQ0Q85fQlQhrElOG-XBnbpKWyeq438XinrLyoEy8zVNC02zz33D0o6bgSJFaWfw9-zjO5z7gN00/s400/Rombauer+1.jpg" width="281" /></a><br />
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<i>kidding... kidding...</i><br />
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My palate gravitates toward French, Italian, and German. For whites - white burgundy - Chardonnay that expresses fruit, minerals and cooler climate of Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) and Chablis in a leaner, higher acidity, and dare I say, a more nuanced way that challenges many American palates. Polar opposite of Rombauer. Rombauer is colloquially known as everyone's mother's favorite Chardonnay - a rich, sweetly, buttery, and approachable California Chardonnay, a style that huge number of domestic consumers adore. I rarely make it to Napa anymore, but recently when I got an invitation for a press tasting and tour at Rombauer, I cast my personal preconceived notions aside, and decided to learn more about what makes Rombauer a public's darling, with 100,000 cases of their "house-style" Carneros Chardonnay sold each year. It's polarizing - on one side are wine geeks for whom Rombauer is a symbol of what's <i>wrong </i>with New World wine. On the other side are consumers who just love the taste at the price they can afford, without necessarily the need for intellectual intrigue of Old World, or the prestige, exclusivity and price tag of California top "cult" producers (like Kistler, Marcassin, etc). Keeping an open mind, and after having tasted Rombauer Chardonnay before, and again at this event, I find it an unapologetically rich and oaky style, and I think it represents "sweet spot" (pun intended) value $$-wise. I respect that. I could see enjoying a glass of Rombauer Chardonnay by itself or with buttered lobster or heavier fried foods that can stand up to the caramelized fruit and oak flavors - a slutty, guilty pleasure. In fact, tasting their four Chardonnays, I couldn't help but imagine I was drinking liquified buttered lobster. It turned out to be the wrong imagery because a few days later when paired with lobster roll from Lobsta Shack, the Rombauer all but overwhelmed it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSFx260cyKI5XvgysSESSpHXnBQoo2uNNVYAVdpWL1lti5QdKt5A_NvpJFMzgBqUiKFd10zwj0SHOb2S3ECxDIyo-mZTMdH88rv1OttnNKFLWmMT6hGY7R9BlOf9nQkzpucWsbUimAx84/s1600/Rombauer+with+lobster.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSFx260cyKI5XvgysSESSpHXnBQoo2uNNVYAVdpWL1lti5QdKt5A_NvpJFMzgBqUiKFd10zwj0SHOb2S3ECxDIyo-mZTMdH88rv1OttnNKFLWmMT6hGY7R9BlOf9nQkzpucWsbUimAx84/s640/Rombauer+with+lobster.jpg" /></a><br />
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Frankly, having a whole meal with the 2014 Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay initially seemed like a good idea, for about 1 glass. After that I couldn't go on. The (14.5%) alcohol, heft, and the sweet caramel / butterscotch really tired out my palate long before the dinner ended. A bit too young obviously, I expect with age the oak flavors would integrate better. Some of my friends who love Rombauer told me they love drinking it without food.<br />
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At Rombauer I learned that their Cabernets are also of solid quality but seem to be made in less opulent style than the Chardonnays. They too are value in the category of premium Napa Cab.<br />
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The tasting and tour began with Richie Allen greeting the press with a glass of 2015 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Very fresh expression, a good start. Richie is the director of viticulture and winemaking since 2013, after he had worked his way up through the ranks of Rombauer, starting as a harvest-time intern in 2004. They have 2 more winemakers, but Richie is the boss now. Originally from Australia, he is extremely enthusiastic and passionate about Napa Valley and his employer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO0RZBB2O98LT7WzcWXrErRiCRL0-KQDgT2I-0zDJC55qw5oOIAFvwmX3tpkJPmpLz6N_zXoGfWSpvpkdthg6K2ypUZreL1EnHiYkGs97VMuZ6ZjlQ9wZ3o7BE2t1ZSSmFC6nlAbhJo3Y/s1600/IMG_2457.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO0RZBB2O98LT7WzcWXrErRiCRL0-KQDgT2I-0zDJC55qw5oOIAFvwmX3tpkJPmpLz6N_zXoGfWSpvpkdthg6K2ypUZreL1EnHiYkGs97VMuZ6ZjlQ9wZ3o7BE2t1ZSSmFC6nlAbhJo3Y/s320/IMG_2457.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLcvlA-8ylfuSMQlFXfLrQdw3cXsCq4MbymfnwJjEWQKICZ_T0XSGXF0kQjHKF_NzXBaApSDaCn0x47YJeIs5cSRx9POaDj6m4DrECIjhCZs5ckatq2j_9Vw4keUdyEb26tpELfwp5Mbk/s1600/IMG_2456.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLcvlA-8ylfuSMQlFXfLrQdw3cXsCq4MbymfnwJjEWQKICZ_T0XSGXF0kQjHKF_NzXBaApSDaCn0x47YJeIs5cSRx9POaDj6m4DrECIjhCZs5ckatq2j_9Vw4keUdyEb26tpELfwp5Mbk/s320/IMG_2456.JPG" /></a><br />
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The owner, "KR" Rombauer (Koerner Rombauer III), son of the founder Koerner Rombauer, showed up with his dog. He explained his family had moved to Napa valley in 1972, and been in wine business ever since. His dad's great aunt, Irma Rombauer was the author of the internationally-renowned Joy of Cooking cookbook, perhaps the most famous American cookbook of all time! Originally partners in Conn Creek winery, the Rombauers founded Rombauer Vineyards in 1980, and over the years have been expanding their holdings to support the enormous appetite of American public for their Chardonnay. His philosophy: "Understand what customers like, and what customers <i>love</i>. Make wines their customers love."<br />
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All wines were opened for ~1-2hrs prior.<br />
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1. <b>2015 Rombauer Sauvignon Blanc</b>, 14.2%. 10% neutral (5yr old) French oak, pick in August (cooler site) bottle in Dec. Very classical grass and lime, some glycerol but not thick, actually quite fresh and elegant, good acidity, and not hot despite the alcohol in the 14% range. $24. Quite good quality. Richie recommends drinking this from Spring 2016 while young.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy5u00zFZorpurHAVm2l7fmC1Xd2p4a81xRihrLIL6oJxOxiyk8ouvD_oW4iyRFniPQUgV1ZFXPve9iVMNlPhpGxm95Y7ra-EGHSE9j9j5cxwNDaleo2U9Cmuh_2dBaz2KUrBQ_rrsZEM/s1600/IMG_2452.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy5u00zFZorpurHAVm2l7fmC1Xd2p4a81xRihrLIL6oJxOxiyk8ouvD_oW4iyRFniPQUgV1ZFXPve9iVMNlPhpGxm95Y7ra-EGHSE9j9j5cxwNDaleo2U9Cmuh_2dBaz2KUrBQ_rrsZEM/s320/IMG_2452.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnEiO7qs_4jcbUJ3Sdw1ac_8YWMRlAEHH_BrwOmA5AyP7MCBlXJYBbi6C1ITLSN6iTDEHLJajqsHC14mEv6WtP0WSda_DF9tbpR1LMIZnBULkBRxm38Z5H-L8oYxLr92aCqpTxeD7xwzg/s1600/IMG_2455.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnEiO7qs_4jcbUJ3Sdw1ac_8YWMRlAEHH_BrwOmA5AyP7MCBlXJYBbi6C1ITLSN6iTDEHLJajqsHC14mEv6WtP0WSda_DF9tbpR1LMIZnBULkBRxm38Z5H-L8oYxLr92aCqpTxeD7xwzg/s320/IMG_2455.JPG" /></a><br />
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For reds, 40% of 2013 Napa Valley cab and all reserve cabs are barrel fermented and barrel aged in new French oak. The red varietals are partly barrel fermented for richer, deeper, rounder profile. Richie would have them all that way, but he is constrained by time, resources, space, etc. Barrel fermentation approach is extremely labor intensive, as it requires turning barrels by hand frequently during fermentation. He talks a lot about relentless focus on the quality, sorting, types of barrels and how key they are to the quality and style of their wines. Clearly at Rombauer, Chardonnay is the claim to fame, but Richie is very serious and excited about their reds program as well.<br />
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Then we head to the chilly caves dug in the side of the mountain abutting the production facility where hundreds of barrels are resting. Here we have a taste of Merlot. A bit too cold. Everything is so pristine, without the spittoon I can't gather the courage to spit on the ground. So I take a small sip and savor it in my mouth for a long time, before finally swallowing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlKCIMGFb_e5LxOJxlf8BRh9miRDYkibUx_cZ6bHOebhhS3Nz9eMX-KU1DMS_LfYLkUQeRL64eXZwN5YdWbmWgQqtsnnfiIwmve8o7tdELaO3-4JVjD-hQF-mW-oqgBgubnV3VjUQLEoU/s1600/IMG_2463.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlKCIMGFb_e5LxOJxlf8BRh9miRDYkibUx_cZ6bHOebhhS3Nz9eMX-KU1DMS_LfYLkUQeRL64eXZwN5YdWbmWgQqtsnnfiIwmve8o7tdELaO3-4JVjD-hQF-mW-oqgBgubnV3VjUQLEoU/s320/IMG_2463.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj8UrRJ5NGaHT0kTLL3jcERanHzBu590MHkCEM9n7OnrTZPhVdDbv7ENClXJjK6ZYzhLe8mfS5GWpOnHbf3By8lj9D_UyD_VlivdRLnojNyaN5b_QpwY4sv-_KRWJ06iTbH28fLyf2Kpg/s1600/IMG_2464.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj8UrRJ5NGaHT0kTLL3jcERanHzBu590MHkCEM9n7OnrTZPhVdDbv7ENClXJjK6ZYzhLe8mfS5GWpOnHbf3By8lj9D_UyD_VlivdRLnojNyaN5b_QpwY4sv-_KRWJ06iTbH28fLyf2Kpg/s320/IMG_2464.JPG" /></a><br />
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2. <b>2012 Rombauer Carneros Merlot</b> - 86% merlot, clay soil, small amount of barrel fermented. Chocolate, ink, smoke/tar, black cherry / blackberry. Quite good. Not heavy, not thick, quite lively actually. $35<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUE57hgaQjPa7lfnyRX8mqJq8PpokppL77WVEtAsE7ILYY-xTGTynMZ2LsbxJuGlAQ0NYNiWfgQtL8Byypt_hBlkglTXBgnIzwR_5yWa1ky9z7CTIMJeX3Nkv13tpzjv6vPtWoAhOLjGA/s1600/IMG_2465.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUE57hgaQjPa7lfnyRX8mqJq8PpokppL77WVEtAsE7ILYY-xTGTynMZ2LsbxJuGlAQ0NYNiWfgQtL8Byypt_hBlkglTXBgnIzwR_5yWa1ky9z7CTIMJeX3Nkv13tpzjv6vPtWoAhOLjGA/s320/IMG_2465.JPG" /></a><br />
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Back at the main facility, we continue with a sit-down portfolio tasting of Rombauer Chardonnays, Cabernets, and Zinfandels.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ZD6oi9aLW3dWI1-LlG3WQGPQvKKZ3n0G1RF3uAnjaqPHvKESH8eRAOt8Jj5b_cUxAXuIVNn7MezJ3zEmWWg8gphofOLYwIHY_ZvU7e0wCWqY4t2DAPMZsPBFyHh76EEWwl9xAX97f1A/s1600/IMG_2467.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ZD6oi9aLW3dWI1-LlG3WQGPQvKKZ3n0G1RF3uAnjaqPHvKESH8eRAOt8Jj5b_cUxAXuIVNn7MezJ3zEmWWg8gphofOLYwIHY_ZvU7e0wCWqY4t2DAPMZsPBFyHh76EEWwl9xAX97f1A/s640/IMG_2467.JPG" /></a><br />
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3. <b>2014 Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay</b> (house-style) ripe pineapple coconut vanilla nose (Pina Colada). Heavy rich full body, very viscous, spice, a lot of melted popcorn butter, caramel, butterscotch. Recommended started drinking 2 years in. Low acidity. Really begs for lobster with butter, but in actuality turns out a better match with coconut-popcorn shrimp. KR Rombauer recommends cellaring for 7-10 yrs for aged flavor. 100k cases. 1/3rd new oak. 14.5%<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOXAGGtJF8kvp00Cssr7HSYPXYTUa3CBhp5ZF5dv6RBkuWiru4Z3iNZdfRfRTsdKhxxVb9n3tK8URFZTRCOmGH6A9MsYkYCgFBYshYxNypHYp53OUTYdd9s-jwjOwCrY9s-A134luGQ9Y/s1600/IMG_2470.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOXAGGtJF8kvp00Cssr7HSYPXYTUa3CBhp5ZF5dv6RBkuWiru4Z3iNZdfRfRTsdKhxxVb9n3tK8URFZTRCOmGH6A9MsYkYCgFBYshYxNypHYp53OUTYdd9s-jwjOwCrY9s-A134luGQ9Y/s640/IMG_2470.JPG" /></a><br />
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4. <b>2014 Rombauer Buchli Station Chardonnay</b> more lifted nose. A bit lighter in profile, more refined and citrusy, but otherwise similar. Longer finish. 120 cases. 50% new oak, mostly French. 14.6%. This was my favorite of all the Chardonnays.<br />
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5. <b>2014 Rombauer Home Ranch Chardonnay</b> lifted citrus again on the nose, sweet flower pollen. Spicy minerals more evident on the palate. Verbena? (Aloe spice?) Quite spicy finish. Sweet caramel & flower spice. Heavier and slightly less acidity than Buchli. 14.6%. 120 cases<br />
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6. <b>2014 Rombauer Proprietor Selection</b> similar. A lot of thickness, viscosity. It's solid underneath, but why this much sweetness? 800 cases. Recommend drinking 4-5yrs.<br />
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Then come the Cabs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixyAC4bixx6SoQmxr9JmwUAfXFnx8Mj988yKvAZAoUSdlXBIsuE6knsBI9mNrYzMxZC8bQky6kjqhycdy9gfFTpI2AJDoqBM3U0n5PBdGlaiclBsdX1e6RZFGdAG0ZlavzIQsz79GEcT0/s1600/IMG_2472.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixyAC4bixx6SoQmxr9JmwUAfXFnx8Mj988yKvAZAoUSdlXBIsuE6knsBI9mNrYzMxZC8bQky6kjqhycdy9gfFTpI2AJDoqBM3U0n5PBdGlaiclBsdX1e6RZFGdAG0ZlavzIQsz79GEcT0/s640/IMG_2472.JPG" /></a><br />
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7. <b>2013 Rombauer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon</b> - crushed stones, spice, well balanced, deep but not thick or heavy. Tannic. 12k cases<br />
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8. <b>2012 Rombauer Diamond Selection Cabernet Sauvignon</b> - tannic, clean & spicy. 1500 cases<br />
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9. <b>2012 Rombauer Atlas Peak Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon</b> - smoother & sweeter, graphite, but still tannic. 250 cases <br />
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10. <b>2012 Rombauer Stice Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon</b> - quite grapy (welsh's grape juice), unsweetened chocolate, crushed gravel. 250 cases<br />
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11. <b>2012 Rombauer Le Meilleur du Chai </b>"Best of the Cellar" blend (75% cab) - tannic, dark, still not super dense (which I appreciate), inky. 250 cases.<br />
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The Chardonnays are poster-boy Cali Chard, full of richness and brute-force sex appeal. If that is the style you like, I think the quality is solid and they are a relative value at $30+/btl for the Carneros Chardonnay (wine-searcher pricing) and $65 for the single-vineyard and reserve cuvees sold at the winery. The cabs are more restrained but are also well made and represent value, in the range of $35-100/btl, possessing a consistent, intense but not heavy style with some strong fine tannin, relatively light on their feet, not thick texture, crushed gravel & graphite. Solid stuff.<br />
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We were also served 3 different Zinfandels with lunch. They paired nicely with duck confit smothered with lentils and roasted dry fruit jam. I recall Fiddletown Zin was particularly satisfying in a sweet and juicy kind of way.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzSi-j1TzSPmIj8VnTrA6VAr_naX4uEZDFTtF1z1gZCXQwKOIgzWdFI9oDStohuSUI0PloAHBzaehdT1Agw_64WuuYnORmPrDPtqSbbEbT1ovLDvAyrgzpjCPWIT40az5Hysip_TNrfLE/s1600/IMG_2474.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzSi-j1TzSPmIj8VnTrA6VAr_naX4uEZDFTtF1z1gZCXQwKOIgzWdFI9oDStohuSUI0PloAHBzaehdT1Agw_64WuuYnORmPrDPtqSbbEbT1ovLDvAyrgzpjCPWIT40az5Hysip_TNrfLE/s320/IMG_2474.JPG" /></a><br />
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And finally, a rare and quite tasty bottle of 2011 vintage Zin Port from El Dorado County, which is Richie's pet project, currently not commercially available.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmy6enEGFNuAieQ6aEzPpfLQB9L-LPhZkaFTUMgD9lmhMAgGy_LqTx5Vs0CsbeQjUOEmxT_GIcK9l28dZTxxFd7decZKvJoLduP8mx1BB26Eb8ItorAn9hZNhQQNMekYDkZ6Su6DthuMg/s1600/IMG_2482.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmy6enEGFNuAieQ6aEzPpfLQB9L-LPhZkaFTUMgD9lmhMAgGy_LqTx5Vs0CsbeQjUOEmxT_GIcK9l28dZTxxFd7decZKvJoLduP8mx1BB26Eb8ItorAn9hZNhQQNMekYDkZ6Su6DthuMg/s320/IMG_2482.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b><u>Bottomline</u> </b>- good quality, good value. Matter of style. Chardonnay is a bombshell Napa. I asked Richie if he had tried making them without oak, just as an experiment, and he replied "I like my toast buttered." There you have it. At 100,000 cases of their "house" Carneros Chardonnay made and sold each year, the public clearly agree.Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-59917997080128509372016-01-29T07:59:00.000-08:002016-02-07T07:56:33.582-08:00Dunn Petite SirahWhen I started covering Dunn Vineyards <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2011/01/dunn-last-honest-howell-mountain-cab.html">few years back</a>, they seemed to be a classic winery, kind of left in the past, unpretentious, un-marketed, appreciated mainly by wine geeks. I immediately fell in love with the wines, and <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/search/label/Dunn">wrote about them</a> with great enthusiasm and appreciation on this blog. In the last couple of years, the famous critics seemed to have re-discovered Dunn, bestowed raving articles and high scores upon them, and the winery now enjoys more prestige and buzz, which in my opinion they duly deserve. I am proud to have jumped on the Dunn band-wagon earlier, and happy to see that Mike Dunn has not let the recent recognition go to his head. Still the same down-to-earth, easy-going man that makes you feel comfortable whenever you sit down with him at the Dunn's family home in Angwin (Howell Mountain). Unfortunately, alas, prices expectedly are up, though still far below other top cabs.<br />
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In January, I made a trek over there to pick up my case of 1998's - one of my favorite Dunn vintages, both Napa Valley and Howell Mountain, and to catch up with Mike. He surprised me with a mini-vertical of Dunn's little-known Petite Sirah, made in classical Dunn style by Randy in the stretch of 4 vintages - 1992-1995, and practically forgotten in the cellars until about 10 years ago, when they decided to dust them off and offer to select customers. With only a few cases now remaining from the original production of approximately 150 cases, these are very rare bottles. Just like the Dunn cabs from the 90's, Dunn's Petite Sirah is very different from what I have come to expect from that varietal in California, which usually delivers heavy, jammy, thick fruit and high alcohol. In the hands of Randy Dunn, these wines produced from the Park Muscatine vineyard near their house show savory, dark, tarry mountain fruit, lithe body, great acidity, low alcohol, and grippy tannins, quite serious albeit more rustic than the cabs. Even at 20+ years, they seem to need another 10 to mellow out, not totally surprising given that Petite Sirah is known for being a very structured, tannic grape, often blended in to reinforce Zinfandel. Would have never guessed this was Petite Sirah though - an impressive effort.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvMLHFZkNUlxot39_3vo4cWA5Jqh3eVzjfLjzO3Z1S8zjlS_6Uxfl3SQ9IV1W-Xpvsrk8I5ohE3jbj7j3xQqqx2WTMPVs97ELbS7bRUW7gmh8_SaAAnkms16WUR6L4jamlld7WEq3o0u4/s1600/IMG_2490.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvMLHFZkNUlxot39_3vo4cWA5Jqh3eVzjfLjzO3Z1S8zjlS_6Uxfl3SQ9IV1W-Xpvsrk8I5ohE3jbj7j3xQqqx2WTMPVs97ELbS7bRUW7gmh8_SaAAnkms16WUR6L4jamlld7WEq3o0u4/s640/IMG_2490.JPG" /></a><br />
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In 2003 Mike got Randy to agree to let him make his own wine. So Randy handed the Petite Sirah Park Muscatine vineyard to Mike, who proceeded to make wine from the same good old vineyard and the same good old vines under his own Retro Cellars label. So it was fascinating to taste the 2003-2005 vintages of the Petite Sirah right next to Randy's original 1993-1995. It appears when Mike was getting started on his own, he went into higher level of ripeness and alcohol, but the more recent vintages of Retro Cellars Petite Sirah pulled the alcohol and ripeness back down to 12-13%, and I recall them being more drinkable and closer to the classical Dunn style.<br />
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<b>Tasting </b>(wines were opened 1 hour prior)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDYR_Ov09KpUUII9qUIJavKnsokg01CSmZD0B9lCIZiJgNSVP_B1_I5epBvZo7iTi2Y40RR3quz43qjcxhSMMRJQwOGIfssje15-nFQC3t8aMxj2F0qbxAS3JX4hstdU8I1CjV_DfmAb8/s1600/IMG_2485.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDYR_Ov09KpUUII9qUIJavKnsokg01CSmZD0B9lCIZiJgNSVP_B1_I5epBvZo7iTi2Y40RR3quz43qjcxhSMMRJQwOGIfssje15-nFQC3t8aMxj2F0qbxAS3JX4hstdU8I1CjV_DfmAb8/s640/IMG_2485.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>1993 Dunn Howell Mountain Petit Sirah</b> (13.6%)<br />
Very restrained. High acid, tannic, fresh, foresty, herbs, zesty, pretty<br />
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<b>1994 Dunn Howell Mountain Petit Sirah</b> (13.6%)<br />
Fresh zesty nose. Smoother tannins, herbs but not herbaceous<br />
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<b>1995 Dunn Howell Mountain Petit Sirah</b> (13.6%)<br />
More powerful, sweeter, orange peel, good acid, smooth tannin, old leather. I tasted it the next day again. It didn't smell quite as "old". Zesty peppercorns, tart plums, olives (briny and leathery), still tannic and tight (not super aromatic). With braised beef, this was singing! Then after pouring off to a half bottle (3/4 of 375ml filled) and keeping it refrigerated, a week later it was still going strong when paired with rare New York steak which brought out the earthy tones of the wine. That's Dunn DNA! It suggests that the wine is still about 10 years away from its peak.<br />
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Next, Mike's wines. The key to making good Petite Sirah, according to Mike, is the right kind of oak barrel, with tight grain, that serves to soften the tannins without imparting much wood flavor.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqnr761-o73tLGAOx_VOifX1pLT32m4WGrgBbX2c_4MnM6DwFsrP0kE-2RFaYjeiYqc_PkPvTeFTMzroiqkq4JxB_oT-DjdIljCdrzaoxnsSv6Zvx7hZK5lrz3ZIEi-Hi4f1eL2mM8O6A/s1600/IMG_2483.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqnr761-o73tLGAOx_VOifX1pLT32m4WGrgBbX2c_4MnM6DwFsrP0kE-2RFaYjeiYqc_PkPvTeFTMzroiqkq4JxB_oT-DjdIljCdrzaoxnsSv6Zvx7hZK5lrz3ZIEi-Hi4f1eL2mM8O6A/s640/IMG_2483.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2003 Retro Cellars Howell Mountain Petite Sirah</b> (14.4%) plum liqueur, a hint of brandy, herbs, leather, loads of tannin, acid<br />
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<b>2004 Retro Cellars Howell Mountain Petite Sirah</b> (14.2%) - riper, smokier, cumin, tannic, pepper, probably would be great w/ Chilli.<br />
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<b>2005 Retro Cellars Howell Mountain Petite Sirah</b> (14.3%) - ripe, very tannic, herbs, sweet plums, cherries, chocolate.<br />
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Petite Sirah is a lot more work to farm, says Mike, and it is not a great business, doesn't sell as well as other varieties, especially when he charges ~$40-45/bottle to justify the effort he puts in. He plans to reduce production from ~1000 cases down to 400. It was a great way originally for him and his wife to venture out on their own, but now Mike feels he is happy to invest more of his energy elsewhere. Interestingly, the nursery that supplied the original vines for the Park Muscatine vineyard must have accidentally included some genetic ancestors of Petite Sirah -- Syrah and Peloursin, the latter being a very rare variety now. There is apparently enough of it found in the vineyard that Mike will actually bottle some - a hoot for wine geeks!<br />
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<b>Bonus bottle</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUvx9ewe87n1h6SG8DknmRAcIphEzlvKShd9N0HBvaRqUPw-aQ7yc4jgNAlmseODWWtDtwkW784Lb9xLBxRlgjV5eCTBqD79zoG8O-9jZvia_UMDrCs-sZjYOVDWckS5Fah7iTkEs_Rus/s1600/IMG_2491.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUvx9ewe87n1h6SG8DknmRAcIphEzlvKShd9N0HBvaRqUPw-aQ7yc4jgNAlmseODWWtDtwkW784Lb9xLBxRlgjV5eCTBqD79zoG8O-9jZvia_UMDrCs-sZjYOVDWckS5Fah7iTkEs_Rus/s640/IMG_2491.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2011 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet</b> (13.9%) opened 4 days prior, about half full now. Hint of zesty roasted bell pepper, delicious velvety fruit, like a rich velvety borscht, unsweetened chocolate, tannins, with very fragrant red fruit and zesty herbs, fantastic food wine, fine tannins, tart zesty finish. Should be great with time (10yrs+). Finished the bottle the following day. Mineral dust, rich velvety roasted root vegetables, caramelized tomato, pomegranate, unsweetened cherry extract, herbs, hint of chocolate. Happy to have two hand-signed mags of this in the cellar for my son's birth-year collection.<br />
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Great visit, as always. Thank you Mike and Randy!Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-85334831480425354382015-05-17T16:38:00.000-07:002015-06-04T08:59:27.029-07:00Chianti Classico Gran Selezione<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjobXyMd6t_E4i4uWlhMMsr8Ns4PmZWX0A9_nb1AMShiD7rq08Z-mrNWkKZsk0_p_kHkAgAJ2Y9mFU0dIuoVtvByGMO5pDyiH3qEwzLW4P28OoXL090WfZ41O48ah5QzCH1DTNWhhF4U5I/s1600/IMG_9322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjobXyMd6t_E4i4uWlhMMsr8Ns4PmZWX0A9_nb1AMShiD7rq08Z-mrNWkKZsk0_p_kHkAgAJ2Y9mFU0dIuoVtvByGMO5pDyiH3qEwzLW4P28OoXL090WfZ41O48ah5QzCH1DTNWhhF4U5I/s200/IMG_9322.JPG" width="150" /></a></div>
Chianti Classico wine region (DOCG) in Tuscany, identified by a black rooster logo, covers the territory lying between the provinces of Florence and Siena, and includes a number of communes such as Greve, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Radda, Castellina, and a few others. Encompassing the original Chianti zone dating back to 1716, it's officially different and more prestigious than Chianti (DOCG) which had spread outside the initial boundaries, and includes areas such as Chianti Ruffina, Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chainti Colli Pisani, etc.<br />
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In 2013, producers of Chianti Classico created a new denomination of quality within their zone, the highest rung in the ladder, their version of a "grand cru" called "Gran Selezione". Approximately 10% of the production based on stricter selection and longer aging qualifies to be the creme of the crop, one step above the already serious Riserva designation. While Brunello has more prestige and commands higher prices, the insiders know that Chianti Classico can produce equally compelling expressions of Sangiovese. Earlier in May, the 600+ members strong Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico presented the inaugural tasting of Gran Selezione wines, the first release they are so marked. For most, it was the much-acclaimed 2010 vintage, but some debuted with another vintage, whatever happened to be their top qualifying wine currently being offered.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ0baAesV2JF-IAuzXVbgz3dxH1RNxelxnjmcBcQFYAZW7JgpN92KMo93sJP2qy4orlo9ygDm_dRiPUp89E6xAZOxrq5J7hnGhkbsW1ZQoCCaVMyUMfATqJulyfdK61ZgIlqqFVh1A5uQ/s1600/IMG_9309.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ0baAesV2JF-IAuzXVbgz3dxH1RNxelxnjmcBcQFYAZW7JgpN92KMo93sJP2qy4orlo9ygDm_dRiPUp89E6xAZOxrq5J7hnGhkbsW1ZQoCCaVMyUMfATqJulyfdK61ZgIlqqFVh1A5uQ/s640/IMG_9309.JPG" /></a><br />
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My overall impression is that Chianti Classico is a very reliable wine. The highs and lows are not as dramatic as some other regions (like Bordeaux or Burgundy, for instance), and the vintage variations though perceptible, do not, in my opinion, doom the quality. That is to say, as I tasted Riservas and Gran Selezione through 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, and 2011, there was not a bad wine in the line-up of about 30 producers, each offering 2-3 wines, although some wines were moderately marred by reduction (a sort of a burned rubber flavor, which should dissipate with age or oxygenation). I was particularly impressed with 2009, a vintage that is showing lots of flesh and polish, with smoother tannins, while maintaining balance. And with 2011, that seems to me like a blockbuster year - the wines are ripe and expressive, but not overripe, with strong but fine tannins, depth, excellent acidity, and overall are more pleasant than the more austere 2010's. There were also a number of basic 2012 Chianti Classico's, tannic and fruity, which left me with positive impression.<br />
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My favorite wine of the tasting was 2011 Fontodi Chianti Classico Vigna Del Sorbo Gran Selezione - simply a gorgeous expression of (mostly) Sangiovese, dense, tannic, with layers of flavors I didn't find in others, one of the best Sangiovese in the world, period - and it's a relative bargain for $60-70/btl. The 2006 Isole e Olena Gran Selezione was also quite superb but much more expensive (they quoted over $200/btl). Felsina was fine as usual, and this was the first time they imported their highest-end Chianti Classico Colonia Gran Selezione (should be $80-100 retail), a very good wine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqqQ-Ssi1zqoNUbLlQAW-pYspR1N2h5QMcQsiWq1rqkgmVrRoKFw7VZDBp7w1RJGv1C3PT86QXVQkz3QdLaMu5RjMSy-DsRKlxye-mkIBKtUNFlymsQQVSPXN2Y23UBGFfsK4WQEuzJmE/s1600/IMG_9316.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqqQ-Ssi1zqoNUbLlQAW-pYspR1N2h5QMcQsiWq1rqkgmVrRoKFw7VZDBp7w1RJGv1C3PT86QXVQkz3QdLaMu5RjMSy-DsRKlxye-mkIBKtUNFlymsQQVSPXN2Y23UBGFfsK4WQEuzJmE/s640/IMG_9316.JPG" /></a><br />
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Other memorable wines were Riserva and Gran Selezione selections from Volpaia, Il Molino di Grace, Castello di Brolio, Ormanni, Castello la Leccia, and Badia a Passignano (Antinori). As mentioned, the level of quality was high across the board.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZHF5GG7yIX3dex9CdXSwoVqZ3BhO_lfudrt6Rw2Qn-mjaJQC8PnzAzYP8LkRvKhWCdfVu9iIxd9C_NvDCGTxqWb8EjUVV8PGRhrl0wrgQaOla7k9YaL1CM4SBd27hqFjtP_L7tP1bQKs/s1600/IMG_9310.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZHF5GG7yIX3dex9CdXSwoVqZ3BhO_lfudrt6Rw2Qn-mjaJQC8PnzAzYP8LkRvKhWCdfVu9iIxd9C_NvDCGTxqWb8EjUVV8PGRhrl0wrgQaOla7k9YaL1CM4SBd27hqFjtP_L7tP1bQKs/s320/IMG_9310.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-__wfxu9i9YdwGgxx2-W1uK8vKOad4Z1bBUX9Lz5eXdvVEaDatUyn16MSdsdHGMkejUhPrUiVmshbdpiBbsDKUXKm7950rt5blokmSQkxHO7Pre0CxIrfZ-rAjYKV0hfQ7nPbMKM3wA/s1600/IMG_9312.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-__wfxu9i9YdwGgxx2-W1uK8vKOad4Z1bBUX9Lz5eXdvVEaDatUyn16MSdsdHGMkejUhPrUiVmshbdpiBbsDKUXKm7950rt5blokmSQkxHO7Pre0CxIrfZ-rAjYKV0hfQ7nPbMKM3wA/s320/IMG_9312.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17li78TwF8rjpdFqfSnymLQ5cJsSmEkJ9GZYIExWgPbcpY1VIY77G8ZnBsuSj4LgkX4pu08NYnxaRhJ3NFhs9R0ANeNJKLDocrkyqTJIcRe1CEwUlp3rFRndvEYcs8CTJTURR_jNJ3rQ/s1600/IMG_9313.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17li78TwF8rjpdFqfSnymLQ5cJsSmEkJ9GZYIExWgPbcpY1VIY77G8ZnBsuSj4LgkX4pu08NYnxaRhJ3NFhs9R0ANeNJKLDocrkyqTJIcRe1CEwUlp3rFRndvEYcs8CTJTURR_jNJ3rQ/s320/IMG_9313.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMaIh3Mb0axVZa_XStojfOTkPNNE7mlzElpcGFFJ9hhLG6GBkBUnzcgnFVrpYFqfdoMXrQokkREw1JB_QDZcBt9kMhW5-7xtu1FEoK73z1LnyiMvIKWFkAhSHxLJa2wPTA2KagND1CMP4/s1600/IMG_9315.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMaIh3Mb0axVZa_XStojfOTkPNNE7mlzElpcGFFJ9hhLG6GBkBUnzcgnFVrpYFqfdoMXrQokkREw1JB_QDZcBt9kMhW5-7xtu1FEoK73z1LnyiMvIKWFkAhSHxLJa2wPTA2KagND1CMP4/s320/IMG_9315.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQeJ2jiUko22w9rn4i7yEZZ7lVqo3c4uawc51taM2EMBUScXrPWHLNhgVw-Bm47G130VeMta0fKAcQJ-CqjbgZRA4j31dJ1rqYWbNBYGXFgMEo3ytocfjsWt5iHyYJbxNP3uS5_hat4lA/s1600/IMG_9317.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQeJ2jiUko22w9rn4i7yEZZ7lVqo3c4uawc51taM2EMBUScXrPWHLNhgVw-Bm47G130VeMta0fKAcQJ-CqjbgZRA4j31dJ1rqYWbNBYGXFgMEo3ytocfjsWt5iHyYJbxNP3uS5_hat4lA/s320/IMG_9317.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJr2Exbm2ECZCcSEbCpqZjClV3MQWDV7sjEbqSak6KRZesqXxdHMoFIv9pwgncLrpHFVeNR-QRGjeKArUe4TpVy4xl0p1zywgB7vnvnoAV6HBrwlbX5iIzY1I2hZWXMy_qqdUEQI1-CtQ/s1600/IMG_9318.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJr2Exbm2ECZCcSEbCpqZjClV3MQWDV7sjEbqSak6KRZesqXxdHMoFIv9pwgncLrpHFVeNR-QRGjeKArUe4TpVy4xl0p1zywgB7vnvnoAV6HBrwlbX5iIzY1I2hZWXMy_qqdUEQI1-CtQ/s320/IMG_9318.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj00wzUkAbgMjwLBXszzfwRhV61aRQo9gURc-t50WPXwni081VkM9uobYHWElwgo4ViUNArefBUUPm67QCAQigaZK_v43S5GXQ7Rhd5CKjZKIY8NT2Cyy1Zvv2-6UWRcfgsy12uA9xZzOI/s1600/IMG_9319.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj00wzUkAbgMjwLBXszzfwRhV61aRQo9gURc-t50WPXwni081VkM9uobYHWElwgo4ViUNArefBUUPm67QCAQigaZK_v43S5GXQ7Rhd5CKjZKIY8NT2Cyy1Zvv2-6UWRcfgsy12uA9xZzOI/s320/IMG_9319.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUb_tmZ_-kS2BKFz9HE6iMniCuZwJbBA4e47ntKVmQerQu_ctCNiwmxwPrXCaVyENECe0Q1grNKsPCrhqRrGfxX4jQ40LLFVn2nadAJLfL5lrPWApICUqOi2P1PyN1zxiY-M0i6nGBwfw/s1600/IMG_9326.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUb_tmZ_-kS2BKFz9HE6iMniCuZwJbBA4e47ntKVmQerQu_ctCNiwmxwPrXCaVyENECe0Q1grNKsPCrhqRrGfxX4jQ40LLFVn2nadAJLfL5lrPWApICUqOi2P1PyN1zxiY-M0i6nGBwfw/s320/IMG_9326.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxu8ARPecgQxsyeUQL3TeO-UIvrr4l3N7UWQhrT_hFcWyx8pNMj1N6QNl1uDEA6VLH4VqNolMbrusyrlFJkBrlqExjNlQW6NfGVrarysuimzIwxempF7SyClcA0Gk2MsLEEAt6zqbTdo/s1600/IMG_9320.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxu8ARPecgQxsyeUQL3TeO-UIvrr4l3N7UWQhrT_hFcWyx8pNMj1N6QNl1uDEA6VLH4VqNolMbrusyrlFJkBrlqExjNlQW6NfGVrarysuimzIwxempF7SyClcA0Gk2MsLEEAt6zqbTdo/s320/IMG_9320.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaw2Sk9C5tNEBl5hJJA8qySUjLHyQ9ypsB31h8ZjXUCY85ksk9wt2sqtvaVi2mqnPwEXb4LtGhPlX_NuFtVsfXsC7i9q9oequzpsWSI_deZZp0GtnLT_4NpGUIhI5jZbm1NXd5wpZgEE/s1600/IMG_9327.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaw2Sk9C5tNEBl5hJJA8qySUjLHyQ9ypsB31h8ZjXUCY85ksk9wt2sqtvaVi2mqnPwEXb4LtGhPlX_NuFtVsfXsC7i9q9oequzpsWSI_deZZp0GtnLT_4NpGUIhI5jZbm1NXd5wpZgEE/s320/IMG_9327.JPG" /></a><br />
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Chianti Classico, particularly at the Riserva and Gran Selezione levels definitely strikes me as a reliable appellation with typical flavor profile of dark cherries and leather / tobacco, with excellent structure (tannic/acidic presence & balance), that doesn't quite reach the highs of other more premium regions (like Burgundy), but it also doesn't disappoint as often.<br />
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All in all, I walked away impressed and encouraged.Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-24170261062533930582015-03-08T08:40:00.000-07:002015-03-08T15:27:06.951-07:00Thibault Liger-Belair 2012<b>Thibault Liger-Belair</b>'s 2012 red burgundies are a step up from any previous vintage I recall from this producer. I hadn't drunk many of his wines in the past, simply because on the occasions I had tried them, they had left me uninspired. However, the 2012's are high-quality, albeit not necessarily all to my liking in terms of style and flavor. The domain is relatively young, though the vineyard holdings go back for generations. In its present shape under Thibault's name, it was established in 2001 by then the 26-year-old passionate Thibault Liger Belair who took back family vineyards from share-croppers. It is perhaps not surprising that several years were required for the results of that work to start showing. The 2012's certainly make me re-consider the 2012 as a more serious vintage for reds than I have been giving it credit for.<br />
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Recently, I had an opportunity to taste several of Thibault's 2012's and though not exhaustive, the tasting pulled this producer from the shadow of his cousin Louis Michel Liger-Belair of Comte Liger-Belair, a hugely successful vigneron and owner of the monopole La Romanee from Vosne Romanee. Thibault is back on my radar, especially considering he is one of the few owners in the famed Richebourg terroir.<br />
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<b>Tasting Notes</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNqFxcM-vQq-T0s4KGTvUAvAVup7sNrwoY38Pz9D5vIVrMvFVl5TSo3bpDOYk1_vUpYVYkAfH_27x_HWnKO-NaXUB4dpV4d4QKAP3Oy5QaEVvH2uhYCZu-ARXZwQ8k2aPns4M8HUod9I/s1600/IMG_8421.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNqFxcM-vQq-T0s4KGTvUAvAVup7sNrwoY38Pz9D5vIVrMvFVl5TSo3bpDOYk1_vUpYVYkAfH_27x_HWnKO-NaXUB4dpV4d4QKAP3Oy5QaEVvH2uhYCZu-ARXZwQ8k2aPns4M8HUod9I/s640/IMG_8421.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2012 Thibault Liger-Belair Nuits-Saint-Georges "La Charmotte"</b> village wine - very light cranberry color, especially compared to others. Lovely spicy red berries, licorice, oak, a bit like a light Vieux Telegraphe (Chateauneuf-du-Pape) from a lighter vintage (like 2006 and 2011), in a good way, but with more Pinot elegance. Very light body, strange, perhaps the lightest red from 2012 I've had, almost makes me imagine a second tier village (like Savigny or Pernand) from a lighter vintage. I asked the owner of the wine shop if other bottles of this wine have been like this, and he said yes. The color and palate suggest hints of secondary flavors and some premature development, with earthy caramelized carrots, but in a good way. Pine forest, game / pate / leather, hint of metallic, earthiness. This is really good, for short-to-mid-term drinking (3-5 years).<br />
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<b>2012 Thibault Liger-Belair Gevrey-Chambertin "La Croix des Champs"</b> village wine - (open for 2 hours). Nose: meaty, very fine pepper spice dust and (expert use of) ripe stems, floral, attractive. Palate: a lot of extract, hint of leather, stems, smoky spice on the finish. Clean, pure, balanced, meaty and dark. Quite leathery, soft persistent tannins. Good.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc1m4QU7SEF011psBAV1G8FVOlh4uOH8f5PvI08lQK0CC4a2J09pg6oEsuU8Bl55qF-1WKCLdgqXeQNfYvh6bcF20X8DyYbCiUnx2fsBYOPiQMzyf2I5VzD-3aYO59jBEKsfGLzcJMgUU/s1600/IMG_8380.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc1m4QU7SEF011psBAV1G8FVOlh4uOH8f5PvI08lQK0CC4a2J09pg6oEsuU8Bl55qF-1WKCLdgqXeQNfYvh6bcF20X8DyYbCiUnx2fsBYOPiQMzyf2I5VzD-3aYO59jBEKsfGLzcJMgUU/s640/IMG_8380.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2012 Thibault Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanee "Aux Reas"</b> village wine - (open for 2 hours). Nose: redder, velvetier, sweeter than the Gevrey. Palate: consistent with nose. Smoother, riper, sweeter. Plush and delicious. Vanilla, wood. Velvety tannins, spices, none of the stemmy character of the Gevrey, lovely hint of apricot / orange. Pretty decadent for a village wine.<br />
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<b>2012 Thibault Liger-Belair Clos Vougeot Grand Cru</b> - (pop and pour). Yummy nose of black cherries and cream. Palate: silky smooth, black cherries, plums and vanilla cream, some earthy beets. Nice silky cushioned texture gives the wine very luxurious feeling, gently tannic. Very good! My favorite of the tasting, and a wine that vindicates Clos de Vougeot for those who doubt the vineyard's grand cru pedigree. I would be happy to buy this wine.<br />
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<b>2012 Thibault Liger-Belair Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru</b> - I heard this wine is over 15% alcohol. While it was big and rich, the alcohol wasn't sticking out for me. However, the wine did very much remind me of an elegant version of a Northern Rhone, i.e. it was very robust for a red Burgundy, and not really my style, at least at this stage of its life. Nose: almost Northern Rhone-like pepper, floral/stems, oak. Palate: spicebox (exotic peppercorns), again reminds me of Northern Rhone, tarry cherry and plum, rich black cherry. Looking at and tasting the Charmes-Chambertin side-by-side with the Nuits-Saint-Georges (in the first photo above) shows the two dramatic extremes of this producer's range - the light and elegant Nuits-Saint-Georges and the dark, rich and robust Charmes. On one hand, this makes Thibault Liger-Belair interesting for me, but on the other, one should be aware that tasting is necessary in order to calibrate the wines to one's own preferences, because the range is strikingly diverse.Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-8243035616810525782015-03-06T05:48:00.000-08:002015-03-06T06:11:36.927-08:002012 Raveneau Chablis<b>Raveneau </b>is the top Chablis producer, everyone knows it, the prices are sky high, yet worth it in my opinion, as the quality experience is virtually guaranteed, both young and especially with age. 2012 vintage in Chablis was particularly strong, and Raveneau's 2012's that I tasted were fabulous. Riesling-like minerality, honeyed, spicy butteriness that lingered on the lips for hours, viscous oily textures and exotic seawater / seaweed salinity were the hallmarks of this lineup, with the bonus 1999 Montee de Tonnerre showing amazing seamless silkiness and marvelous complexity. Yet with all those admirable attributes, these are not wines of weight and obviousness, but rather of elegance, complexity, texture, precision and enormous class. My oh my, I was smitten, they were the best 2012 white burgundies (if you can call Chablis that) I have had! In 2012, there were other excellent Chablis producers that cost a fraction of Raveneau - the likes of Dauvissat, William Fevre, Christian Moreau, etc... Personally, I hold Dauvissat in almost as high esteem, yet Raveneau is still the king!<br />
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<b>Tasting Notes</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbj_kmBO59PYnpydv9GCoPVQw_kcVUXDxWsU_BwR1YjOYH_-RhjvOHkhDLHSchdUAe06px4IqnrpkxchPUnjW3z7QJhN3-W9ZbrcZLE-7qLfN66Pp-Uw8y_N-_aRm5dKRfCE00SS3aHpM/s1600/IMG_8342.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbj_kmBO59PYnpydv9GCoPVQw_kcVUXDxWsU_BwR1YjOYH_-RhjvOHkhDLHSchdUAe06px4IqnrpkxchPUnjW3z7QJhN3-W9ZbrcZLE-7qLfN66Pp-Uw8y_N-_aRm5dKRfCE00SS3aHpM/s640/IMG_8342.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2012 Raveneau Chablis "Vaillons" 1er Cru</b> - satiny seawater, creamy pillowy oiliness, intensely spicy and very long finish lasting more than a minute. This is great!</div>
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<b>2012 Raveneau Chablis "Butteaux" 1er Cru</b> - slightly riper than the "Vaillons", more orchard fruit, still nice honeyed salinity and oiliness. I preferred the Vaillons by a tiny margin.</div>
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<b>2012 Raveneau Chablis "Montee de Tonnerre" 1er Cru</b> - beautiful creamy scent, spice, oil, spicy florals, intense finish, silkier and softer than the "Valmur" and "Butteaux", slightly more elegant if perhaps less powerful than the previous two.</div>
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<b>2012 Raveneau Chablis "Valmur" Grand Cru</b> - more power and punch here, more flavor, oily buttery finish, Riesling-like minerals, actually reminds me of an Italian wine too, in terms of focus and minerality, but with cream/butter/oil adding an enormously pleasurable dimension of class, very obvious crushed stones covered with honeyed butter, very long finish that reverberates on my taste glands. Wow!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhmCAV3p2t4yk4cVha7swNCk9AEtlK5B0N9c693UNVXwj7VzG8kF64ORnEIxk3vUe3M3EHY0bGJgGh_3monssgE6IPjhEJxxJ2M03glQTEcBQa-veFhuY5fmwRVzo8Ga9VtfK7Y6Vg-AQ/s1600/IMG_8343.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhmCAV3p2t4yk4cVha7swNCk9AEtlK5B0N9c693UNVXwj7VzG8kF64ORnEIxk3vUe3M3EHY0bGJgGh_3monssgE6IPjhEJxxJ2M03glQTEcBQa-veFhuY5fmwRVzo8Ga9VtfK7Y6Vg-AQ/s640/IMG_8343.JPG" /></a><br />
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<div>
<b>1999 Raveneau Chablis "Montee de Tonnerre" 1er Cru</b> - note of petrol and butter on the nose. Palate: silky smooth, buttery, slightly roasted nuts, wow!, really complex and delicious, great balance, rich! In a perfect place to drink now. Wish I had this in my cellar! Marvelous!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqenxRWhBTJfYpeCzPxP-5G4rMfhngFKo1qNp8ZCfSialA5XCEfZiGqvN_uR36l90j1SzI-Z5DY6Mt9ul2XrfqpUnhQsM0KNzx2D6iLSpdLLtdUddydIO7nHO0LtdhRzy-oyu1FJXOp1M/s1600/IMG_8344.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqenxRWhBTJfYpeCzPxP-5G4rMfhngFKo1qNp8ZCfSialA5XCEfZiGqvN_uR36l90j1SzI-Z5DY6Mt9ul2XrfqpUnhQsM0KNzx2D6iLSpdLLtdUddydIO7nHO0LtdhRzy-oyu1FJXOp1M/s640/IMG_8344.JPG" /></a>Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-91386550921295879352015-02-20T20:22:00.000-08:002015-02-20T20:22:49.453-08:00Initial Look at 2013 Burgundies - Armand Rousseau, Faiveley, and more<table align="none" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZApIkifK_MCMLoSDJBcGWhCeL8vIj5TetTQ9yALrQTUS3aACeyqk8PIdMNLlsv2hKq3inOQ4fJaE9TD7IH10Zf8D6FZRSThhI814OG7KekR4T10jQ6Fh6IJX3WQT02Q0E3GLJANga0ps/s1600/IMG_8135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZApIkifK_MCMLoSDJBcGWhCeL8vIj5TetTQ9yALrQTUS3aACeyqk8PIdMNLlsv2hKq3inOQ4fJaE9TD7IH10Zf8D6FZRSThhI814OG7KekR4T10jQ6Fh6IJX3WQT02Q0E3GLJANga0ps/s640/IMG_8135.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iron Chevsky and Erwan Faiveley (right), <span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">with his outstanding 2013 Corton-Charlemagne.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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At the 2015 Frederick Wildman Burgundy portfolio tasting in San Francisco, I got a chance to sample some very good wines from the upcoming 2013 vintage. Some (like Olivier Leflaive) are currently being bottled while others are a few months away. But the vintage characteristics already shine through. And I very much liked what I saw, at least from the top producers at this tasting.<br />
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I generally preferred the reds here to the 2012's. While the 2012 is hyped by many as a great vintage, I personally don't think so. The 2012 reds are fluffy, juicy and plush - but they seem to lack structure. The 2013's on the other hand have it - they are more serious and angular, with nice ripe dark fruits reminiscent of black tea, with tart acidity and fine tannins. The acidity seems to stick out just a bit on some of the reds at this early stage, but I think it will integrate nicely in the coming months and years, as the reds have plenty of material. The whites are more mixed, some a bit lean and acidic, which on the other hand makes them appear more pure, focused and mineral/terroir-driven, not a bad thing.<br />
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Armand Rousseau and Faiveley impressed - no surprise there! All four Rousseau wines were fantastic - Gevrey-Chambertin villages (very good this year, concentrated blackberry and black tea and hint of black pepper, a serious village wine. It has about 10% 1er cru juice, and also this year they removed one of the under-performing village plots, further boosting quality of the final blend), Lavaux St Jacques (more intense than the village Gevrey, with a pronounced pepper note), seemingly more integrated Mazy, and Beze with even more depth and refinement, a wow wine! The four Rousseau's Gevrey's were deeper, denser and darker than Faiveley's, with consistent black tea signature running through, balanced by tart (cranberry / citrus) acidity, without overt tannins. I liked them better than Rousseau 2012's at this point last year, which seemed more formidable and monolithic.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtx1f8iq9dAbiDI3edLrGqhHTCAwzhHM7uWPPoER-tvOlUIZaamWJ30s1zedbgj6optDuJsWadDDna8ajLOevxxWcfCl5O8g7v7BXSjHbUpabUvjfwkmwUYUou8g4Av5b2DBQrx2bqvWc/s1600/IMG_8143.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtx1f8iq9dAbiDI3edLrGqhHTCAwzhHM7uWPPoER-tvOlUIZaamWJ30s1zedbgj6optDuJsWadDDna8ajLOevxxWcfCl5O8g7v7BXSjHbUpabUvjfwkmwUYUou8g4Av5b2DBQrx2bqvWc/s640/IMG_8143.JPG" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">All four Rousseau reds were fantastic. As was ever-so-delightfully saucy Cyrielle Rousseau herself (Eric Rousseau's daughter).</span><br />
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The Faiveley table seemed the busiest at the tasting, undoubtedly a tribute to the rising popularity of this domaine. The standouts for me included Gevrey Cazetiers (though a bit reduced at this stage, with strong note of meat) and Chambertin Clos de Beze (delicious and multi-faceted, I can only imagine how wonderful cuvee "Les Ouvrees Rodin" must be!), and the superb Corton-Charlemagne with excellent ripeness, sap, and almost tannic grippy texture, which surprised even Erwan Faiveley himself, who is very happy with his 2013 reds, likening them to 1993, but perhaps underestimated the whites, and the "lowly" eye-opening village Rully "Les Villeranges" (great QPR). Other reds in the Faiveley range were also good, from the beguiling but serious enough monopole in Mercurey "La Framboisiere" to dark, irony, meaty Nuits-St.-Georges 1er cru "Aux Chaignots" to Gevrey-Chambertin monopole 1er cru "Clos des Issarts" - another excellent signature wine for the domaine, though personally I tend to prefer Les Cazetiers. Mazis-Chambertin grand cru, always one of the strong wines for Faiveley was solid, though showing a bit of wood at this stage, while the monopole Corton "Clos des Cortons Faiveley" flagship was on point as usual, the densest and meatiest of the grand crus, and obviously less expressive or interesting than Clos de Beze. None of the grand crus seemed to have formidable weight or density of some of the great vintages like 2005 or 2010, but they had a polished quality of tannins, good ripeness, balance, focus and definition, and medium weight that gave them elegance. I expect that with the weaker Euro, the wines will be a bit more affordable than 2012, a welcome change, because I want them in my cellar!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhshKPNQK6v13j8x4obYOz0C8lALXqgTqgzgioSgJigRQonsYKXWrBrIuS9dKVqd27L0BjCymJuDCk3Yo4siklVFJJmo5BdPppqgI88q7SNR90oFbNGBOiiLLVzlsxSdafJL24EPQz5Ado/s1600/IMG_8129.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhshKPNQK6v13j8x4obYOz0C8lALXqgTqgzgioSgJigRQonsYKXWrBrIuS9dKVqd27L0BjCymJuDCk3Yo4siklVFJJmo5BdPppqgI88q7SNR90oFbNGBOiiLLVzlsxSdafJL24EPQz5Ado/s400/IMG_8129.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAHeDZiBp1D1UHB4yoZXNL2Red8ua073b0KXJYdscAXGd_kuwN_ghXAcnjUXU-eYf9Y8hsK2CkSdNFhgi6FTmqVck57FLyXXAz92ICS9IiFcKGv8NaJnBj4Xpi3lIM6J-PTy4VcZoy8PY/s1600/IMG_8130.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAHeDZiBp1D1UHB4yoZXNL2Red8ua073b0KXJYdscAXGd_kuwN_ghXAcnjUXU-eYf9Y8hsK2CkSdNFhgi6FTmqVck57FLyXXAz92ICS9IiFcKGv8NaJnBj4Xpi3lIM6J-PTy4VcZoy8PY/s400/IMG_8130.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinPBQW6bJRUY-NO8DG5DaktppK8C9z56Q43VLVye8FFxU1TjxMrkLVDDgqw6_BTvn9oNYM6ZbqMHKNE2A6jhEviHULf6cD_29yzshv_EFaZCl_7KwbTdRjKkjLFOdK5sqaJpqqGsEA0_U/s1600/IMG_8131.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinPBQW6bJRUY-NO8DG5DaktppK8C9z56Q43VLVye8FFxU1TjxMrkLVDDgqw6_BTvn9oNYM6ZbqMHKNE2A6jhEviHULf6cD_29yzshv_EFaZCl_7KwbTdRjKkjLFOdK5sqaJpqqGsEA0_U/s400/IMG_8131.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhudBgTagmMW1CWvBE-1ksH53cjmPr7ChaHW2lzC3NZzJrhb0fIfPHQStQyUpkBq56GUg0y6p6MA_XALth-jbhgZL5lJ8cpGVgAYKwhv9x1Q3RpXOvP-tqP641H6re2aJMvgEUeCK7FRlo/s1600/IMG_8132.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhudBgTagmMW1CWvBE-1ksH53cjmPr7ChaHW2lzC3NZzJrhb0fIfPHQStQyUpkBq56GUg0y6p6MA_XALth-jbhgZL5lJ8cpGVgAYKwhv9x1Q3RpXOvP-tqP641H6re2aJMvgEUeCK7FRlo/s400/IMG_8132.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLGanFWA7SOnb915_srlqiKwudr0MnyDHs8cSxMrglXYkbXFj9HKUjdaqlQuFMhyphenhyphendtP-7g53WxO52rGdd8Lnbq-0CdVugT5jUcoAohM03VvUwkk51-jUXQEBkFArj_-ftM_8HM1oUqMI/s1600/IMG_8147.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLGanFWA7SOnb915_srlqiKwudr0MnyDHs8cSxMrglXYkbXFj9HKUjdaqlQuFMhyphenhyphendtP-7g53WxO52rGdd8Lnbq-0CdVugT5jUcoAohM03VvUwkk51-jUXQEBkFArj_-ftM_8HM1oUqMI/s400/IMG_8147.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_9byqm25mbKwZJ_Pbz8aEkOCKGyFTiwVRWFjjoq8rcg69ZkJVWCUxWt3Kwt9tsElZ_0fleQdJa4JGwT6hy69XfKc6adaMAUfWYk2MR6U-uOmRRxVn_3U4aXyfU0rhPGe0gMxF_gWFdWM/s1600/IMG_8133.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_9byqm25mbKwZJ_Pbz8aEkOCKGyFTiwVRWFjjoq8rcg69ZkJVWCUxWt3Kwt9tsElZ_0fleQdJa4JGwT6hy69XfKc6adaMAUfWYk2MR6U-uOmRRxVn_3U4aXyfU0rhPGe0gMxF_gWFdWM/s400/IMG_8133.JPG" /></a><br />
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Faiveley wines have become so dependably high-quality, one can almost buy them blind year in and year out. Can't wait to see what they will achieve in Chablis with their purchase of Billaud-Simon (we should see the first results of their efforts there in the 2015 vintage). Erwan says he is finally happy with the quality and style of wines the domaine is making from their old properties, perhaps the transition from father to son is complete now. Further efforts focus on improving newly added properties (such as new parcels within Cazetiers, acquired a couple of years ago, as well as new leases for 1er-cru plots in Chambolle, such as Les Amoureuses), as well as improving quality and sourcing of the negociant offerings. For example, he mentioned that after 2010, they now make their village Chambolle from purchased grapes rather than wine in barrel, thus usurping control over a larger part of the winemaking process.<br />
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Olivier Leflaive Rully 1er "Les Cloux" was good too, though Faiveley's "Les Villeranges" is probably slightly more interesting even though it's "only" a village. Olivier Leflaive's Corton-Charlemagne was nice and pure, though leaner and with less material than Faiveley's. I heard (and so it seemed from the tasting) that Rully (and Cote Chalonnais in general) over-achieved (ripeness), the area to pay attention to in 2013, when Cote de Beaune struggled.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi-3ET8MqaP6AwIVhVqpwmIoNsWcUVfpS5ipWLpqSP8tWBMppgdDZ3TzkX1DfdWiQbmTD9WZSBTVYpzTY-1d_ViJSz4BD-ZpZSc4AE5vU-JgxsXARzp_XjzbXrdf5xBtLKxjW-I5xW3po/s1600/IMG_8125.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi-3ET8MqaP6AwIVhVqpwmIoNsWcUVfpS5ipWLpqSP8tWBMppgdDZ3TzkX1DfdWiQbmTD9WZSBTVYpzTY-1d_ViJSz4BD-ZpZSc4AE5vU-JgxsXARzp_XjzbXrdf5xBtLKxjW-I5xW3po/s640/IMG_8125.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLhQteFdhExhGA0NSJuywgApmyMIxvUteZwvyHIyAZHe_OHLMkNQUoysvYhu1Sk9mg-yU7r0QEjmUcU63MVMqnj5iY-NqvAlXaDMB2EVwX9bmoKgKCjh58TvGD4DTV4cGwYnMo2O0xoPA/s1600/IMG_8139.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLhQteFdhExhGA0NSJuywgApmyMIxvUteZwvyHIyAZHe_OHLMkNQUoysvYhu1Sk9mg-yU7r0QEjmUcU63MVMqnj5iY-NqvAlXaDMB2EVwX9bmoKgKCjh58TvGD4DTV4cGwYnMo2O0xoPA/s400/IMG_8139.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ilXPQAYwPzdsnK9tcBZinCvaRuxPa9AGY-r3aoOM13FcJXXXpQbQIXedU6bn02glYa0iY9X_l38dDMY5KDmDE23dG9DARV7poKeQKvq_TMe0nK5ie7H1KftAvz7nnfgRKcsdI9kSPjk/s1600/IMG_8145.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ilXPQAYwPzdsnK9tcBZinCvaRuxPa9AGY-r3aoOM13FcJXXXpQbQIXedU6bn02glYa0iY9X_l38dDMY5KDmDE23dG9DARV7poKeQKvq_TMe0nK5ie7H1KftAvz7nnfgRKcsdI9kSPjk/s400/IMG_8145.JPG" /></a><br />
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Olivier Leflaive has always flown somewhat unnoticed because of the renown of his cousin Anne-Claude's Domaine Leflaive, and also perhaps because it was founded as a negociant business, but it must be acknowledged that, in my experience, Olivier Leflaive has a very good touch and produces white burgundies of high standard. This year their Rully and Bourgogne blanc "Les Setilles" were excellent, and I also enjoyed their village Meursault, even though it seemed higher toned and leaner than I typically expect from Meursault. The other wines from Cote de Beaune seemed a bit lean to me, though perfectly classy, with emphasis on purity and minerality, and in the case of the Corton-Charlemagne, sufficient stuffing without opulence.<br />
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Christian Moreau was dependable as usual - his base Chablis quite expressive and tasty, and the rest of the range consistently pure, linear, crystalline, almost Riesling-like. These wines are obviously high quality and still good QPR, though for me they lack certain exotic oceany flavors I love in Dauvissat and Raveneau, and even (to a lesser degree) in William Fevre.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie57ucsoOQbetU10Pwk0YdIk9_xHdGwONxUsxoQx5thh00pT0NjQfLmmnE9NEE0VcHmsDrVSv1WAH49HlpgxKJ_WVtDCDIaol9-fBCp5h4OfLvGn2cIUWaeGTFFMU6bRyhusjpbMp5vGw/s1600/IMG_8136.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie57ucsoOQbetU10Pwk0YdIk9_xHdGwONxUsxoQx5thh00pT0NjQfLmmnE9NEE0VcHmsDrVSv1WAH49HlpgxKJ_WVtDCDIaol9-fBCp5h4OfLvGn2cIUWaeGTFFMU6bRyhusjpbMp5vGw/s400/IMG_8136.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4JCnumfnNFMnvBTWWUwRJUUWA65USQOSYO7UvtvAgrFoUKmcc1focqHYp-7Kareb9IniJykd92xPWgr_bGM6XkST7gnQmsa10zhz7_DrDCMS1DrSCmdTqu7ONpgJDxhxNIyLvUg61L9Q/s1600/IMG_8138.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4JCnumfnNFMnvBTWWUwRJUUWA65USQOSYO7UvtvAgrFoUKmcc1focqHYp-7Kareb9IniJykd92xPWgr_bGM6XkST7gnQmsa10zhz7_DrDCMS1DrSCmdTqu7ONpgJDxhxNIyLvUg61L9Q/s400/IMG_8138.JPG" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Fabien Moreau (son of Christian Moreau) is the Managing Director and Head Winemaker at the domaine, and a member of the 6th generation of the Moreau family to be involved in wine-making. Fabien is holding his top wine - the very pure, intensely mineral grand cru Chablis "Les Clos".</span><br />
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Jacques Prieur reds and whites were forgettable, with the exception of two bottles of excellent Moulin-a-Vent Beaujolais - single-vineyard monople "Le Clos" and the blended "Grande Cuvee" produced by Domaine Labruyere, another property owned by the same family. While I am not a big Beaujolais fan, I could not deny the serious concentration and intriguing peppery note of these wines, which struck me as a potentially perfect match to all kinds of Chinese food (perhaps even more suitable than my traditional Pinot Noir pairing, thanks to the more rustic nature and pronounced pepper note of the Beaujolais). Prieur's Clos Vougeot was quite good, but not special. Of his whites, the village Meursault "Clos de Mazeray" monopole was attractive.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmXgWKGUQyNJo2pSYoT3BBtnQVWtmhhFC3rcUx19O5mQGB8QkGmfRAFK4eH4xz5fjmpQfcAf7c8z6USj0jUqKkU9I3DyDZzMPF-asdQSVQOKVSW4YeP4PsYbVAhgQ7Y3XrM1zJ-4MJaqs/s1600/IMG_8144.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmXgWKGUQyNJo2pSYoT3BBtnQVWtmhhFC3rcUx19O5mQGB8QkGmfRAFK4eH4xz5fjmpQfcAf7c8z6USj0jUqKkU9I3DyDZzMPF-asdQSVQOKVSW4YeP4PsYbVAhgQ7Y3XrM1zJ-4MJaqs/s400/IMG_8144.JPG" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWJEURdbCUJ567fUu8JRIZWWXfmGzbo5E35py1udr8HRpqt_jFIQsPQ41znt7TWe9siouPFkn_BsyS8IKyi9wGZ8r7jtTqFqL1bpKf0kJ3JmGgkbk-BA4DzCfw7dy7H9L3Pc1_SkBpIQ/s1600/IMG_8126.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWJEURdbCUJ567fUu8JRIZWWXfmGzbo5E35py1udr8HRpqt_jFIQsPQ41znt7TWe9siouPFkn_BsyS8IKyi9wGZ8r7jtTqFqL1bpKf0kJ3JmGgkbk-BA4DzCfw7dy7H9L3Pc1_SkBpIQ/s400/IMG_8126.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIs1aYpVkyH7e17BkeJVmrhHn-3hkfpplhpYxxodopp0AqPimvwQYq5Ilgm-Jd-LizbCDvA1PhPNwUVvlAV4lziUAXcm3O8msq07yOsfrNPLRyl4s2f2u7thjLVvfb_4xsW4lS5rAkm9U/s1600/IMG_8127.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIs1aYpVkyH7e17BkeJVmrhHn-3hkfpplhpYxxodopp0AqPimvwQYq5Ilgm-Jd-LizbCDvA1PhPNwUVvlAV4lziUAXcm3O8msq07yOsfrNPLRyl4s2f2u7thjLVvfb_4xsW4lS5rAkm9U/s400/IMG_8127.JPG" /></a><br />
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For reference, last year's review is <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2014/02/initial-look-at-2012-burgundies.html">here</a>.Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-47332008461165527202015-02-15T10:08:00.002-08:002015-02-16T08:10:52.466-08:00Tre Bicchieri 2015<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV-Nj5IMdGktjwvicJPnNCMh2Q9vY-c-n86b4fTY1Y0N3Ff34NA0fQK6zHSBjdRO_Rlv4hfXxXatkuBEwyefcdXdXSRzM6zEeVTsuRYTfK0-_P3Y2kx0s-nh1hxt_DwB28GYBET5DBt7A/s1600/IMG_8011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV-Nj5IMdGktjwvicJPnNCMh2Q9vY-c-n86b4fTY1Y0N3Ff34NA0fQK6zHSBjdRO_Rlv4hfXxXatkuBEwyefcdXdXSRzM6zEeVTsuRYTfK0-_P3Y2kx0s-nh1hxt_DwB28GYBET5DBt7A/s640/IMG_8011.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luca Currado of Vietti (on the left), my favorite Barolo producer at the event, and Iron Chevsky (me, on the right) holding the red wine of the year - Vietti Barolo Riserva "Villero" 2007</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The 2015 Tre Bicchieri in San Francisco took place in February. The weather was spectacular, the setting at Fort Mason gorgeous, yet it seemed like few famous producers attended, and few bottlings per producer were poured, many of the wines ran out well before the event end. Despite my expectation to taste Brunello and Barolo from the much heralded 2010 vintage (because last year we tasted 2009 Barolo), there were but a handful of 2010's. Perhaps producers don't feel the need to promote their 2010's. Perhaps the famous brands of Italy are focusing on Antonio Galloni and James Suckling events rather than Gamero Rosso's. Whatever it is, I am left thinking that somehow this event is losing its importance to the big names, which is unfortunate as this has always been the top Italian tasting in the Bay Area and the guiding light into the world of top Italian wine each year. What the event has always done well, however, is expose me to a broad array of lesser known wineries of excellent quality, and perhaps that is the pronounced effect of the recent drop of attendance by the bigger names. Crowds still poured in, and there were plenty of wines to drink and generous variety of Italian cheeses to eat. Four hours of tasting flew by in a flash.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIoIOeuRGUwHnI-HAz2gBX0u1pjA3ZiYX39HUerbYlryrT8T7Hsb8QWrqrTXstC_piK3ZIKU3-ku976SD9wG_N5CvGRY00hCtj2ohfxp0F9oqLVII3pbwcT3XFGZFZSjnttlQEjrrp5Ug/s1600/IMG_8006.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIoIOeuRGUwHnI-HAz2gBX0u1pjA3ZiYX39HUerbYlryrT8T7Hsb8QWrqrTXstC_piK3ZIKU3-ku976SD9wG_N5CvGRY00hCtj2ohfxp0F9oqLVII3pbwcT3XFGZFZSjnttlQEjrrp5Ug/s640/IMG_8006.JPG" /></a><br />
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I tasted some shockingly good things (Capezzana Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva 2007 - sweet wine of the year, and Cantina della Volta Lambrusco di Modena Rose 2010, incredibly elegant and unique sparkling wine), but looks like they are so under the radar, that almost no one in the US carries them. The 2012 Donnafugata Ben Rye dessert wine was a worthy follow-up to the magnificent 2011, perhaps with a touch less acidity. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2010 was most excellent - silky dark cherry and tar. As was Vietti's 2011 Barolo Brunate and Castiglione, and the 2007 Villero Riserva (red of the year). If Vietti ends up making 2011 Villero Riserva eventually, that will be a monumental wine too, his 11's are structured and delicious, as should be the Brigaldara Amarone Riserva in 2011, when it eventually comes out in a few years, based on how great the regular 2010 Brigaldara Amarone showed here - complex juniper and spices, with sensation of sweetness but not syrupiness, no heaviness, bitter coffee and tannins ensuring long life (and the 2011 is supposedly an even better vintage than 2010), both, if materialize, are future candidates for my son's birth year collection. Schiavenza Barolo Broglio 2008 was very nice too with smoky notes and elegant tannins, and the most amazing weightlessness like in outer space. Graci Etna Rosso Arcuria (2011 and 2012) were Burgundy-like, especially 2011 - so elegant!, while the '12 had more concentration and should be great in a couple of years - with notes of honeyed herbs, chocolate dust and volcanic tar, soft tannins and a velvety Pinot-like texture! A pleasant surprise was Poggio di Sotto 2009 Brunello, from a much maligned vintage, but delicious wine. (Once again telling me that the 2010 Brunello / Barolo hype should be taken with a grain of salt, because there are plenty of fantastic wines in all of the recent vintages of Barolo and Brunello.) The whites were generally underwhelming, with few usual suspects impressively standing out - sparklers from Ferrari (like drinking lace) and Ca'del Bosco (crystalline purity), and ripe, smoky and rich Pieropan Soave La Rocca 2012, as well as the ripe and almondy Jermann Vintage Tunina 2012 creating sensation of (Riesling-like) energy as if from remaining carbonation (and apparently there is some residual fermentation known to happen in this wine). One other white that captivated my taste buds was Casalfarneto Verdicchio del Castelli di Jesi Fontevecchia 2013 - with richness, almonds, herbs and ripe fruit.<br />
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<b>Here are the photos and more notes on the memorable wines.</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivoxIR83IWYogGXXwhv_RyzxWQZF5k9byHw4np5zuyJkospjidixwSmLQsNXaV2-Jngnq04aNS2PMKs4EewXfcRzQ5Mkl4VIhHHUkBcYxxHMvRc2tnTzkyE4Zxxm1WOKEsOBh-rUDP2uo/s1600/IMG_8008.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivoxIR83IWYogGXXwhv_RyzxWQZF5k9byHw4np5zuyJkospjidixwSmLQsNXaV2-Jngnq04aNS2PMKs4EewXfcRzQ5Mkl4VIhHHUkBcYxxHMvRc2tnTzkyE4Zxxm1WOKEsOBh-rUDP2uo/s640/IMG_8008.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil636vOhP8maOv1MBH_vTueqTKLRL_97mg1KbYpuIkzN_JhKPRQEfix-3pOwU8zoEbvb6Cn0kUgULTp3HIHrWUscrLALdMMdhYe6n4WwVjLChd18yS33X3CViyn4HoTLQAtLvMc7xz5ks/s1600/IMG_8016.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil636vOhP8maOv1MBH_vTueqTKLRL_97mg1KbYpuIkzN_JhKPRQEfix-3pOwU8zoEbvb6Cn0kUgULTp3HIHrWUscrLALdMMdhYe6n4WwVjLChd18yS33X3CViyn4HoTLQAtLvMc7xz5ks/s640/IMG_8016.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a><br />
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Ca'del Bosco Franciacorta a perennial top sparking wine - all three cuvee's were on point. The entry-level Cuvee Prestige NV (yellow magnum) was reliable. Annamaria Clementi Rose Riserva 2006 was expectedly great - a finely chiseled, minty freshness with hints of herbs and pine cones, a classy sparkling wine. This year I was particularly impressed with the Ca'del Bosco Brut Vintage Collection 2010 - the black bottle. More than matched by a set from Ferrari (Trento) - where the top wine Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore 2004 was in a class of its own, like drinking lace.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQqXIF2j_DLmOgOYzA0Layo8Wgb1e4mMmwmcjhQ2WfwfbI59IukMYafQnZoEM67_zYOip6BjycWQM8RbAQFAvf0rKBLj8IN_kh7iyuPwc5R2syuKkGk9ZiFgK0tYZ1V73u-dFpM_pbCo/s1600/IMG_8013.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQqXIF2j_DLmOgOYzA0Layo8Wgb1e4mMmwmcjhQ2WfwfbI59IukMYafQnZoEM67_zYOip6BjycWQM8RbAQFAvf0rKBLj8IN_kh7iyuPwc5R2syuKkGk9ZiFgK0tYZ1V73u-dFpM_pbCo/s640/IMG_8013.JPG" /></a><br />
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Impressive wines from Vietti, including their entry-level Barolo Castiglione, one of the annual bargains in Piemonte, which is showing more delicious than the 2010 bottling at this stage.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga8xIl7K4ikr8y0XOTrSvkcK4-bkfnQyiSxrFKnaiU0tUnQ3K05ysPDG6R0jhWHHKvauzBl5IIATPeFxLnjzvjtBYVicML_q5kTnGVpRXXUGBmYqGbXYqugf5Y453mOflaLD3Pnk94RLc/s1600/IMG_8014.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga8xIl7K4ikr8y0XOTrSvkcK4-bkfnQyiSxrFKnaiU0tUnQ3K05ysPDG6R0jhWHHKvauzBl5IIATPeFxLnjzvjtBYVicML_q5kTnGVpRXXUGBmYqGbXYqugf5Y453mOflaLD3Pnk94RLc/s640/IMG_8014.JPG" /></a><br />
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Poggio di Soto Brunello 2009 was a pleasant surprise - a delicious Brunello from a much maligned vintage, with flavors of fermented plum and cake.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Qoqxue4TpUhhUAj-yXQ6G0epwmJbh93WUMDRCU2vjX24iF0wcZtPm6b2Zd3Sf4DIS_x6G_hvsrYFyTtoln5y3toEWaR7y5eLQrJiQz3hqIfCLtzsnCnBfcSr-zG_YBr93KjT2vcbocQ/s1600/IMG_8017.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Qoqxue4TpUhhUAj-yXQ6G0epwmJbh93WUMDRCU2vjX24iF0wcZtPm6b2Zd3Sf4DIS_x6G_hvsrYFyTtoln5y3toEWaR7y5eLQrJiQz3hqIfCLtzsnCnBfcSr-zG_YBr93KjT2vcbocQ/s640/IMG_8017.JPG" /></a><br />
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G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2010 was up there with Vietti, and one of the top wines of the heralded 2010 vintage. Out of three of Vajra's Barolo bottlings from 2010 I tasted this year - the entry-level Albe, their other label - Luigi Baudana "Baudana", and this one -- the Bricco delle Viole is by far my favorite.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD6y0YdPCM1zlVdyWwxnYwReY53kHYpZAKCrKjcN_VbM4oehaDrm47XzOVEUHS1yYjx8k7ZazH5CtcD2orwdBbcbpwCuhaStqILcwiFkRmJOPoQIpYlUv6TEamyARwGJpN1O04ohQhgcU/s1600/IMG_8024.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD6y0YdPCM1zlVdyWwxnYwReY53kHYpZAKCrKjcN_VbM4oehaDrm47XzOVEUHS1yYjx8k7ZazH5CtcD2orwdBbcbpwCuhaStqILcwiFkRmJOPoQIpYlUv6TEamyARwGJpN1O04ohQhgcU/s400/IMG_8024.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw7ZvHg3w51dnrQvVRuLWPKLRDk8xXXa5rdbIrfC3rhUZvPebSzpl_368LR56SxsgFiq59emsJW7k6UccPULfiUkT1xtAINgxtxbGKas-X-SwzHRmeJnApoIjR8E_EAk7ZcN83IOq13vE/s1600/IMG_8049.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw7ZvHg3w51dnrQvVRuLWPKLRDk8xXXa5rdbIrfC3rhUZvPebSzpl_368LR56SxsgFiq59emsJW7k6UccPULfiUkT1xtAINgxtxbGKas-X-SwzHRmeJnApoIjR8E_EAk7ZcN83IOq13vE/s400/IMG_8049.JPG" /></a><br />
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Top two sweet wines of the tasting, and some of the greatest I have tasted in my entire life. The Capezzana Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva 2007 was the sweet wine of the year, and had an amazing silky texture and slightly oxidative (sherried) style, with flavors of walnuts, dried Turkish apricots, somewhat akin to a Pedro Ximenez, but finer, sleeker and more elegant, with great acidic balance and long, spell-binding finish - a wow dessert wine that was just a notch above the deliriously delicious Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Rye 2012 - the essence of apricots with a hint of smoke.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIiO4Ts7lGPT2GjSmHuqYn6BBrmCHQ3Th-JVrt4CY_pkC8ZeBg4adSUSXZpaHQEuYwf4HjeCOGa2XRX9NGAS3SgiwDRZdEJ1Whea65xi_lwwssOXinTkjMs9vCg6r9ZIcu2oBzZ0pCXgk/s1600/IMG_8039.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIiO4Ts7lGPT2GjSmHuqYn6BBrmCHQ3Th-JVrt4CY_pkC8ZeBg4adSUSXZpaHQEuYwf4HjeCOGa2XRX9NGAS3SgiwDRZdEJ1Whea65xi_lwwssOXinTkjMs9vCg6r9ZIcu2oBzZ0pCXgk/s640/IMG_8039.JPG" /></a><br />
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Graci - an excellent producer of Etna Rosso (Sicily) featured his 2012 "Arcuria" Etna Rosso, but also supplied a 2011 for reference. Awesome wines, with Burgundy-like textures, but additional smoke and almost a volcanic tar nuance that make them unique. These are excellent with food, and can pair well with both meat and seafood (once tannins resolve in a couple of years), and can stand up to spice as well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5KZdmVcB0CO05vkaBit-6RroFAYdtKYgdz-U_Dwf-aueKuC5VOEa9SArW6tjivpM36HKrgF1NiTplY8yAbbydAq9libVeet6QfjVcEvwp8F8_WEqEuh6WuOI1cNO_ussmNitUQslvOMc/s1600/IMG_8027.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5KZdmVcB0CO05vkaBit-6RroFAYdtKYgdz-U_Dwf-aueKuC5VOEa9SArW6tjivpM36HKrgF1NiTplY8yAbbydAq9libVeet6QfjVcEvwp8F8_WEqEuh6WuOI1cNO_ussmNitUQslvOMc/s400/IMG_8027.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTCIk3X5kft4TpWzcdwCF2csglG9vfYlzE8gY1JVrPqFhEcBauzNdFwu7DtlLnEAhWY-PnVVzk5gr9dJLW-e62wuYfajia-C_lim22D0hvU9TkcGVkyvu5emhBp2QWYyKjczK3beBonAk/s1600/IMG_8028.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTCIk3X5kft4TpWzcdwCF2csglG9vfYlzE8gY1JVrPqFhEcBauzNdFwu7DtlLnEAhWY-PnVVzk5gr9dJLW-e62wuYfajia-C_lim22D0hvU9TkcGVkyvu5emhBp2QWYyKjczK3beBonAk/s400/IMG_8028.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8JdQCW_PWVsexxiYVXmxPXKXIoIj1QB_UH3_gP7DssS0GBG_PgaBqLkIXicGeKiI6xGxGwcNuWpwtiCRlBt0MGmfLhedY1JOMM6gDo9__sNpcBkyHQ2rWikEvEj3mK0dAD_SIwSECF6g/s1600/IMG_8029.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8JdQCW_PWVsexxiYVXmxPXKXIoIj1QB_UH3_gP7DssS0GBG_PgaBqLkIXicGeKiI6xGxGwcNuWpwtiCRlBt0MGmfLhedY1JOMM6gDo9__sNpcBkyHQ2rWikEvEj3mK0dAD_SIwSECF6g/s400/IMG_8029.JPG" /></a><br />
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Second year in a row, I am very impressed with the wines from Cantina della Volta (in Emilia Romagna region) - incredibly creative and refined takes on Lambrusco sparkling wine. Their Lambrusco di Modena Brut Rose 2010 (the white label) is fantastically rich, luscious, and elegant (something that cannot normally be said about the rustic Lambrusco), with gently extracted red berries and herbs. It can age for 5-10 years, perhaps more. Wow!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_-oD7aNmd5GXBAExxj0QExMf2YDJguIvx2W4SGIxNjncbab95HoqCDyA2f7raToLbOZi02eqHl4yJzi0xS2NUioIaDs6iEFiVe5D6jo_zx58PbJ1CtPtSZ02h3rEYQJs2ZTDLGC-GetE/s1600/IMG_8034.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_-oD7aNmd5GXBAExxj0QExMf2YDJguIvx2W4SGIxNjncbab95HoqCDyA2f7raToLbOZi02eqHl4yJzi0xS2NUioIaDs6iEFiVe5D6jo_zx58PbJ1CtPtSZ02h3rEYQJs2ZTDLGC-GetE/s400/IMG_8034.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqd7DYOb_2l-FKTQ6v3CeOK9hQeJp4GcsjNWn96xwgqEFIY9FBV-PJjj7RO9c_MQC0avTEGGVV2AIRCPZNMsXyLBg-WyUglYwnsPq_4MU3JE42rzAitCKNdEr3ONNhbfT2Xr70CTh3YDA/s1600/IMG_8035.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqd7DYOb_2l-FKTQ6v3CeOK9hQeJp4GcsjNWn96xwgqEFIY9FBV-PJjj7RO9c_MQC0avTEGGVV2AIRCPZNMsXyLBg-WyUglYwnsPq_4MU3JE42rzAitCKNdEr3ONNhbfT2Xr70CTh3YDA/s400/IMG_8035.JPG" /></a><br />
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I continue to be inspired by wines of Brigaldara from Veneto. Their Amarone Classico 2010 was complex with bitter-sweet coffee and herbs, fruity with sensation of sweetness and lushness but totally dry and without cloyingness or heaviness. Many an Amarone over-index on the heft and sweetness. Not this one. Antonio Cesari (on the photo), the owner's son, explained that these wines go through three phases as they age. First, young and tannic on release, they pair with robust stew-type dishes full of herbs and spices. Next, at 5-10 years, as tannins smooth out and wines lose some of their exuberance, they pair well with steak and such, and finally at old age, perhaps up to 20-40 years, they become intellectual wines to savor on their own.<br />
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And here are a number of other noteworthy wines that I would be happy to have in my cellar.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi7pVFgeS7kL42pK3_vEfw3qMeZIl74un47B0XpzvWX2tYleGzActCb13oBPCZipm40O6Omc5C6dZNmLsu7qnRwkezZcv9b2EKNEAa0dpfJQ5JmK6DtaGufbNxTFyTXLQVa__UcSZdrOM/s1600/IMG_8018.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi7pVFgeS7kL42pK3_vEfw3qMeZIl74un47B0XpzvWX2tYleGzActCb13oBPCZipm40O6Omc5C6dZNmLsu7qnRwkezZcv9b2EKNEAa0dpfJQ5JmK6DtaGufbNxTFyTXLQVa__UcSZdrOM/s400/IMG_8018.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghuaguvG9zeW0snsSub5-384eAm-7RdWjXvyUqT-M3lTPSkf0YzIDJn4Vhrn4vCUrOrGpvRb49KhHT6fg1XpnQWGr8vUe67LJlT0_iR1OcoK4V350hayCHt4LrqMvUaks_aigBjb_TP8U/s1600/IMG_8021.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghuaguvG9zeW0snsSub5-384eAm-7RdWjXvyUqT-M3lTPSkf0YzIDJn4Vhrn4vCUrOrGpvRb49KhHT6fg1XpnQWGr8vUe67LJlT0_iR1OcoK4V350hayCHt4LrqMvUaks_aigBjb_TP8U/s400/IMG_8021.JPG" /></a><a 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href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMAm0eoJTy2ufXd5yO2Sp7NKqCgLOiiipg3h4EgdVfFo_VhADOdWldPoQSA8TkboiKurwpnIyjBkAzaZZvHwBjZgz6c_Y44r2_HdDLpj4-lVppj1WFkYIsxIniH6ZxPZ46d5jUIJxyIRk/s1600/IMG_8042.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMAm0eoJTy2ufXd5yO2Sp7NKqCgLOiiipg3h4EgdVfFo_VhADOdWldPoQSA8TkboiKurwpnIyjBkAzaZZvHwBjZgz6c_Y44r2_HdDLpj4-lVppj1WFkYIsxIniH6ZxPZ46d5jUIJxyIRk/s400/IMG_8042.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1OF4dCLLpk_KpemXvsH0jJNwnu7j9UlS5vQ4EMoTgpyHreEjF34WHpIQ0eXubTP2S3a7-34YW5goT2-y2BBbQWrwBHSczMa-hUKR2UNUgcjvWaRKAguz2PzPzVS1qqZpPqFAm6dISaME/s1600/IMG_8043.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1OF4dCLLpk_KpemXvsH0jJNwnu7j9UlS5vQ4EMoTgpyHreEjF34WHpIQ0eXubTP2S3a7-34YW5goT2-y2BBbQWrwBHSczMa-hUKR2UNUgcjvWaRKAguz2PzPzVS1qqZpPqFAm6dISaME/s400/IMG_8043.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3s-D-LgNBmcPTWmPfD4EFGcIRWWtDOTV9xJ8kCHPlTMQBtuUE-ZwODiR3YL8j5XoKYBzuRyito2ZBy4CY9BIj4FuPEaPiwtJxoyVzdh0cVR8WecFcvmReFHpaRyfcQQoA7DN7TWkemtg/s1600/IMG_8044.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3s-D-LgNBmcPTWmPfD4EFGcIRWWtDOTV9xJ8kCHPlTMQBtuUE-ZwODiR3YL8j5XoKYBzuRyito2ZBy4CY9BIj4FuPEaPiwtJxoyVzdh0cVR8WecFcvmReFHpaRyfcQQoA7DN7TWkemtg/s400/IMG_8044.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPWdtcnswF3YdSq2ruDhEifqFI-0egY0_p4_Wt7qpER45jq57XwD19-HxqpdHdK67MPQReny6bC6zWws7Ovyph5bRV-REZQymWmqZPeoLLMKHzYFdUPRbNnPOha_amlgmcW_ahCJjxEqU/s1600/IMG_8046.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPWdtcnswF3YdSq2ruDhEifqFI-0egY0_p4_Wt7qpER45jq57XwD19-HxqpdHdK67MPQReny6bC6zWws7Ovyph5bRV-REZQymWmqZPeoLLMKHzYFdUPRbNnPOha_amlgmcW_ahCJjxEqU/s400/IMG_8046.JPG" /></a><br />
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Once again I went away feeling that while Italian wines do not quite reach the heights of the best of France, the sheer diversity and uniqueness of flavors and expressions of Italians makes them incredibly interesting and stimulating companions - in both colors (though personally I am more inspired by the reds). From great Taurasi of Campania to Sfurzat of Alto Adige to Etna Rosso of Siccily and Sagrantino of Umbria, and on and on and on, bravo!<br />
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For reference, last year event is documented <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2014/02/tre-bicchieri-2014.html">here</a>.Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-21469395230732377872015-01-23T17:26:00.000-08:002015-01-26T07:40:52.091-08:002010 Brunello di Montalcino. Solid and Over-Hyped?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMuFgwGtHbsw8IqRT3aDu5k9jvFB0bxArD_VedlQ0jV7YF091XGOlU1rGnBi1jPxKHsM1FOl4NjmJiO1B5nC9YVKKBXy1IefAGV47S9V-ktaQYOrHd22tr6GWqKwx-ILHNPcYMQ0r8HZ4/s1600/IMG_7428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMuFgwGtHbsw8IqRT3aDu5k9jvFB0bxArD_VedlQ0jV7YF091XGOlU1rGnBi1jPxKHsM1FOl4NjmJiO1B5nC9YVKKBXy1IefAGV47S9V-ktaQYOrHd22tr6GWqKwx-ILHNPcYMQ0r8HZ4/s640/IMG_7428.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a>Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino came back to San Francisco with the <b>Benvenuto Brunello</b> tasting series after a <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2009/01/those-zin-loving-thais-and-oh-yeah.html">6 year hiatus</a>. On the 24th floor of the venerable Fairmont Hotel with a view worthy of a presidential visit, and on the wings of the much hyped 2010 Brunello di Montalcino vintage, this was a highly anticipated Italian event.<br />
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2010 has been a great great year for wine in the major regions of France and Italy. But as Brunello requires extended (5-year) aging before release, only now are they rolling on to the market, after most other regions. Given what we have seen from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Barolo, Chianti and Tuscany IGT, the recent "best ever Brunello vintage" declaration by James Suckling drove masses to this event, hoarding space at the tables and elbowing their room to spit buckets and cheese trays. <i>(Is it too much to ask of the esteemed members of the trade the simple etiquette to get your pour and move out of the way?)</i><br />
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After tasting through three dozen or so wines, I am scratching my head. Whether you should be disappointed or excited really depends on your perspective here. For a lover of Brunello, this is an excellent vintage, that has depth, concentration, body, good acidity, typicity of flavors, velvety textures and fine tannins. In other words, very good, or excellent, or outstanding, or modern classic, or whatever terms people in the trade will use to hype it up. Of course, the bombastic James Suckling pronounced this a "greatest modern vintage... They represent a new paradigm for Tuscany’s unique Sangiovese-based red...Vintages like this don't come along very often." Or acccoding to K&L's Italian expert Greg St.Clair: "I’ve never had anything like it before, the wines are so good, so incredibly... well, they are just incredible. You’ll be experiencing something that has never been seen before..."<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia2cpmjC7qX2t7QZJeG6v5Rd1dH0OJpO5bx5ppStmJZeFDdunv8juVb1oofkb547xUhbqBdf6J2JGQoyU9OTqD3WBKMXUcgn9upX3BAIdRrquoqokoScgG23hyphenhyphenFwObdkPl1u45BOxyHTk/s1600/IMG_7415.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia2cpmjC7qX2t7QZJeG6v5Rd1dH0OJpO5bx5ppStmJZeFDdunv8juVb1oofkb547xUhbqBdf6J2JGQoyU9OTqD3WBKMXUcgn9upX3BAIdRrquoqokoScgG23hyphenhyphenFwObdkPl1u45BOxyHTk/s640/IMG_7415.JPG" /></a><br />
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Based on this tasting, if you love and need more Brunello, there is quality and consistency across the board in 2010. But let me tell you, if you are <i>not</i> a devout fan of Brunello, this vintage is <i>not</i> going to turn you into one. Simple as that. While the wines are good, I am not sure they are <i>better</i> than 2006's or dramatically better than a string of several good vintages in Montalcino I have tasted in the past decade. If you already have plenty of Brunello in your cellar, I see no reason to over-stock on 2010. The possible incremental improvement in quality is just not enough, in my opinion, to make me want to back up the truck on this. Perhaps they are a touch more concentrated and darker (graphite, black cherry) than 2006's, more like 2007's but without the jamminess. Solid wines, but jaw-droppingly, amazingly <i><u>thrilling</u></i>? I think not. In my view, it's different from Burgundy, where in general I see less consistency between vintages and flavor profiles, and the highs and lows are insanely dramatic. The best thing about Brunello, in my opinion is - many are well-priced in around $40-60 range, and will provide enjoyable drinking over a number of years. They are easier to understand and probably more reliable (just like a California Cab) than Burgundy, Barolo, and Rioja, yet, with all due respect, will never provide the ethereal, haunting qualities those other regions are capable of. (Is it pretty clear where my personal preferences reside?)<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">My favorites</span></b><br />
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While none blew me away, there were a couple of stand-outs at the tasting, and in addition, many very good wines that one cannot go wrong with. <i>(Note: I tasted about 2/3 of the wines before palate exhaustion set it, so I may have missed some highlights). </i>The following two wines with nearly opposite styles were my absolute favorites at the tasting, very different yet equally compelling.<br />
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<b>2010 Villa le Prata Brunello</b> - dark, juicy, black cherries, spice, tobacco. Taut, focused, well-sculpted wine that is muscular and luxurious at the same time. Delicious! I also tasted the 2009 Brunello and 2007 riservas. The 2009 was softer, more pliant and less focused, with more obvious tannins, but still nice. The 2007 Massimo Riserva was a big impressive wine, more powerful than the 2010, with leather, mint, stronger tannins, black cherry, tar, a bit less focused and chiseled than 2010, but very good too. Overall, a very memorable showing by this winery.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZsA16oDJECfm8wv4HhSkpwF0pgngeyycm1t8a4tZWI8iCAuqNyrkUkIjqBlbaVEAT_22MBCd_Rk5rbSg6Uyvju5GBOwMZhYFdgHR9P1vPuAqWCQG5x5ujwbMPmZQj4HlUvtj0toMooEY/s1600/IMG_7421.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZsA16oDJECfm8wv4HhSkpwF0pgngeyycm1t8a4tZWI8iCAuqNyrkUkIjqBlbaVEAT_22MBCd_Rk5rbSg6Uyvju5GBOwMZhYFdgHR9P1vPuAqWCQG5x5ujwbMPmZQj4HlUvtj0toMooEY/s640/IMG_7421.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2010 La Poderina Brunello</b> - cakey, yummy nose. Soft, airy, beautifully fluffy and elegant wine (no perceptible tannins, though at that point I had just snacked on some cheese, which may have neutralized the tannins), spicy strawberries, hints of leather. I also tried the 2009 Riserva Poggio Abate - tannic, but still soft texturally, with more pronounced leather component, pretty good.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie3RX2qs4ngmFMlcSBjryhwV3dSeh0IotIHM4ibuCAjduppiFhnbmXAq3JMSRdNb2MdPhX9eV9p_p7Opo26NbIs6HMU388ztK0RzBp5FDuzDqP0gUmxnAGuIGxwle3HmtuLAk0Ct6Faxw/s1600/IMG_7423.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie3RX2qs4ngmFMlcSBjryhwV3dSeh0IotIHM4ibuCAjduppiFhnbmXAq3JMSRdNb2MdPhX9eV9p_p7Opo26NbIs6HMU388ztK0RzBp5FDuzDqP0gUmxnAGuIGxwle3HmtuLAk0Ct6Faxw/s640/IMG_7423.JPG" /></a><br />
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<i>and the rest of the memorable upper echelon:</i><br />
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<b>2010 Le Ragnaie Brunello</b> - spicy plum, hints of animal, tobacco / leather, focus, fine tannins, not bad! They also had two single vineyard bottlings: Vigna Vecchia (old vines) and Fornace. The Vigna Vecchia was similar to the previous wine, but with slightly more balance and tannin. Good! The Fornace was even more yummy - sweet, cakey, spicy. Strong showing by Le Ragnaie.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3gC-43zxLLF-cPPeVMIzKjrayQFirRaG6aKCRozsnUZbdrtLbLRk_1s6D5OT09yXU1pm1esIBAk4fc78TllkO7ivOKMI2fFHOeScLMX08xaVS4m3-Yd0_AVD4v8QkNgMXLcTy_54uOk/s1600/IMG_7425.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3gC-43zxLLF-cPPeVMIzKjrayQFirRaG6aKCRozsnUZbdrtLbLRk_1s6D5OT09yXU1pm1esIBAk4fc78TllkO7ivOKMI2fFHOeScLMX08xaVS4m3-Yd0_AVD4v8QkNgMXLcTy_54uOk/s640/IMG_7425.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2010 Il Poggione Brunello</b> - juicy, nice focus, spicy dark cherries, velvety texture, some tannins. Nice! (That's Alessandro Bindocci, the winemaker of Il Poggione, on the photo below.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2ETzfwzOSlwDT4u5uxho2S6mscsLOpN2-1KWvGhfD9GsHuptq_5h0gtnOyNRMpa6N_jxNv3ziPq-Q7WM8XQHQXAdC824vk32bzFnbOXrpU2ljRkjO1S1g__MjLA_efmIaYRZ9niXyuU/s1600/IMG_7418.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2ETzfwzOSlwDT4u5uxho2S6mscsLOpN2-1KWvGhfD9GsHuptq_5h0gtnOyNRMpa6N_jxNv3ziPq-Q7WM8XQHQXAdC824vk32bzFnbOXrpU2ljRkjO1S1g__MjLA_efmIaYRZ9niXyuU/s320/IMG_7418.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2010 Caprili Brunello</b> - very focused, graphite, spice, tannin, black cherry and plum, smoke. Nice!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7mZPg3k_9qOLZt3xGREScrnm-RaOT-dlrZ2mqIMBKUQsb0E-n5dZuQ5Egz1MGS3A0vkNP6JmdGo9-kWNNkZbtzCrLyT5BLZP4BBIBczPXCSi5ealE0V9Y4gHL0NYbbDSoHkYCgsMAMJM/s1600/IMG_7426.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7mZPg3k_9qOLZt3xGREScrnm-RaOT-dlrZ2mqIMBKUQsb0E-n5dZuQ5Egz1MGS3A0vkNP6JmdGo9-kWNNkZbtzCrLyT5BLZP4BBIBczPXCSi5ealE0V9Y4gHL0NYbbDSoHkYCgsMAMJM/s320/IMG_7426.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2010 Castello Banfi Brunello Poggio Alle Mura </b>- soft, spicy, beef jerky, velvety, cake, soft tannins. Nice!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNu5Qxi7zpAlNNhMBgDPyY6XNc3O4ikw2rYKkf_npxlHJDnscIMe8Hid-1XDe2x7Ty56G_AfG0bllrFVmrSlT4_8wxjD0X8U2R56HBv4LZRbhuwYStiMlCyt2omeHO9UpIwpYnbOvqY4k/s1600/IMG_7432.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNu5Qxi7zpAlNNhMBgDPyY6XNc3O4ikw2rYKkf_npxlHJDnscIMe8Hid-1XDe2x7Ty56G_AfG0bllrFVmrSlT4_8wxjD0X8U2R56HBv4LZRbhuwYStiMlCyt2omeHO9UpIwpYnbOvqY4k/s320/IMG_7432.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2010 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello</b> - big structured wine, plums, black cherries, tobacco. Deeper, darker (as in graphite) and more concentrated than their 2006's, sleek and muscular, but I am not sure if I like it better.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY3Ur5dMHKAmDjKAsVzjCxBL95zj0tuk2Jxx3ONiuXkGTpQJ7X39gt-mH296ev6CYna8rdXlJUnqBR-x3ILjWBGuMDk4BP3Y-aAHlkcW5Q_6NW2wco6-f1DXzZ21jA69paGIX5d9uqutc/s1600/IMG_7416.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY3Ur5dMHKAmDjKAsVzjCxBL95zj0tuk2Jxx3ONiuXkGTpQJ7X39gt-mH296ev6CYna8rdXlJUnqBR-x3ILjWBGuMDk4BP3Y-aAHlkcW5Q_6NW2wco6-f1DXzZ21jA69paGIX5d9uqutc/s320/IMG_7416.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2010 Uccelliera Brunello</b> - leather, blood, spice, cream, very tasty!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOXMRn2RcJ9WfsybKoA5mf4E8mLjVujxuqi4YHUdfhL0vku1A9evcM7ZGJSpM2aRhi6hChgLQCCvDGcyTmPeioXabI6obWA_JMNItSYu9K94oULKIwyx6cJLvClEwP85hDq-cWfC7iUfs/s1600/IMG_7422.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOXMRn2RcJ9WfsybKoA5mf4E8mLjVujxuqi4YHUdfhL0vku1A9evcM7ZGJSpM2aRhi6hChgLQCCvDGcyTmPeioXabI6obWA_JMNItSYu9K94oULKIwyx6cJLvClEwP85hDq-cWfC7iUfs/s320/IMG_7422.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2010 Col d'Orcia Brunello</b> - plush, velvety, spicy cherry and spicy tomato, leather, tobacco. I also tasted the 2001 and 2007 Riserva Poggio al Vento. The 2007 riserva had slightly milky nose and palate, spicy, leathery cherry/plum, cured meat, smoke, quite nice. The 2001 riserva was yummy, with obviously some secondary development, bright with red cherries and strawberries, leather, spice, smoke, and still noticeable tannins. They also poured a fun 2010 Moscadello di Montalcino sweet white called Pascena, made from Moscato Bianco (white muscat).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji6VajFKi8ETSAOF-tODEFaGnFwgoCQVrZURO__WSAxEIRChb9Whcd6kFVUx1arPRP5ZqhegVlduvpL-Rj2ULqu8JbdZ92WQXRntOxrvAJRgk8oTN0unuXzP_GnPhFcZsEGdJ26dlrXgs/s1600/IMG_7417.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji6VajFKi8ETSAOF-tODEFaGnFwgoCQVrZURO__WSAxEIRChb9Whcd6kFVUx1arPRP5ZqhegVlduvpL-Rj2ULqu8JbdZ92WQXRntOxrvAJRgk8oTN0unuXzP_GnPhFcZsEGdJ26dlrXgs/s320/IMG_7417.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVTQergb7AsVERfWWzcSWYe8BZc0j0v86gB95LRwVH-sRIXq3EGe4e6si7ewN3SA9CW8yavwDKc1I1TU1uZfwj69rOcF48iw0hyphenhyphenZuJaleR2NYXRx9yuY1mAJm1r5kyqhSE4AD9gygLl3M/s1600/IMG_7427.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVTQergb7AsVERfWWzcSWYe8BZc0j0v86gB95LRwVH-sRIXq3EGe4e6si7ewN3SA9CW8yavwDKc1I1TU1uZfwj69rOcF48iw0hyphenhyphenZuJaleR2NYXRx9yuY1mAJm1r5kyqhSE4AD9gygLl3M/s320/IMG_7427.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGwGKgn9T2HHL_Y3M0i3ZSXhvuXLOZgX3UhncD6opTjVYfKMhH4QeL97UPi5OiKBF6kg-cIYc1hFOtD6MI2KP6ynbLl0z7uwH26ihqHXCHNlKNPYoFGyBSOhEyWShy5sLrVDQQvzaI4Ag/s1600/IMG_7430.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGwGKgn9T2HHL_Y3M0i3ZSXhvuXLOZgX3UhncD6opTjVYfKMhH4QeL97UPi5OiKBF6kg-cIYc1hFOtD6MI2KP6ynbLl0z7uwH26ihqHXCHNlKNPYoFGyBSOhEyWShy5sLrVDQQvzaI4Ag/s320/IMG_7430.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2010 Lisini Brunello</b> - nose: wood barrel, iron, spice. Palate: spice, raspberry tea, gentle tannins, quite silky. Not bad!<br />
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<b>2010 Sasseti Livio Pertimali Brunello</b> - nose: leather, spicy tomato, pepper, port. Palate: stronger tannins than others, borscht, spicy cherries and spicy tomato. Pretty interesting. Not bad!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Update: </i>Canalicchio di Sopra and Valdicava</span></b><br />
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A few days later, a local wine shop conducted a more in-depth tasting of two of the coveted producers - <b>Canalicchio di Sopra</b> and <b>Valdicava</b>, who presented their 2010's side by side with the 2006's. This was a fantastic way to contrast the two exalted vintages. Tasting them together made it very obvious (to me) that comparing which vintage is "better" is kind of a futile exercise. Both vintages are excellent, the 2010 is darker with more graphite / tarry quality, and perhaps slightly silkier (less pronounced) tannins. 2010 didn't come across as more powerful or heavier by comparison. Both possess balance and precision. 2006 is showing redder fruit and more sweetness at the moment, I think partly due to some development from age. The alcohol levels are comparable. It was also interesting to note that Riserva's were indeed an obvious step up from the main bottlings. Not only are riservas aged longer, but also they are made from specially selected best grapes, and it shows in the finished wines.<br />
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Francesco Ripaccioli of <b>Canalicchio di Sopra</b> in the photo below was very confident about both the 2006 and 2010, as well as the "under the radar" 2008, which he believes will prove its worth over time as well. That said, there was no riserva in 2008 and 2009, which speaks for itself. While both the 2010 and 2006 Brunello were excellent, the 2006 Riserva is even better, a fantastic wine. He noted that he prefers his Brunello at around 20 years of age.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMtsaJ3BZytftXXvP6pyTZPph7p_BWlOTg3Jox128l2ESo5AduzF-mhwJOyEtTfWl69mA5GixVJ7RL1aQG7Bklnm54XfMpJWlv4B8K4zaAPoEMokjr1uHW00mP1U7GG2xi5qS1YESFOc/s1600/IMG_7451.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMtsaJ3BZytftXXvP6pyTZPph7p_BWlOTg3Jox128l2ESo5AduzF-mhwJOyEtTfWl69mA5GixVJ7RL1aQG7Bklnm54XfMpJWlv4B8K4zaAPoEMokjr1uHW00mP1U7GG2xi5qS1YESFOc/s640/IMG_7451.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0w0cgfB_vInVrdtc6F3wgwfpv4D50wU_fDQVBCuEBhe_8dmyhDa4D5z-ez_VbhaYbmoG2PtRrrAzwU5HPePb95xGlhlxxDePqQmJuDcY_lptVfp0ZNki28D8Gy1VgTv6ZklxmfHF5_cU/s1600/IMG_7452.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0w0cgfB_vInVrdtc6F3wgwfpv4D50wU_fDQVBCuEBhe_8dmyhDa4D5z-ez_VbhaYbmoG2PtRrrAzwU5HPePb95xGlhlxxDePqQmJuDcY_lptVfp0ZNki28D8Gy1VgTv6ZklxmfHF5_cU/s640/IMG_7452.JPG" /></a><br />
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Vincenzo Abrusezzi of <b>Valdicava</b> (in the photo below) said the 2010 is a step up in quality for the winery, a vintage that according to him, has "everything" - and establishes a new standard. The 2010 was delicious and elegant. Dark, tarry, full of graphite, black cherry, hints of black pepper and mushroom. Powerful but at the same time not opulent, jammy or overdone. James suckling awarded it 99 points, while the 2006 Valdicava Brunello received 97. Interestingly, the 2006 has more pronounced tannins even now, which is a testament to the refinement of 2010, I suppose. The 2009 Madonna del Piano Riserva (white label) was also quite good, although less concentrated and focused than 2010 and 2006, and with more drying tannins. The 2006 Brunello Madonna del Piano Riserva was the best of the line-up - smoother and richer, but still supremely elegant and structured - it got 100 points from James Suckling. Excellent wines with great structure, focus, acidity and balance, slightly darker and silkier than Canalicchio di Sopra, and also costing 50-100% more. Vincenzo was somewhat dismissive of the Benvenuto Brunello event, and Tre Bicchieri / Gambero Rosso, for that matter. He considers Valdicava in an elite class, and doesn't want to get "bundled" with tons of other wineries at a big tasting. Regarding critics' influence, he mentioned that Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, and James Suckling have the power to "move the bottles", everyone else is "just talking" (I wonder if he just forgot Antonio Galloni). Vincenzo commented that he enjoys drinking Valdicava starting at 3 years from release up to 25. Beautiful packaging for Valdicava, by the way, both their regular and their riserva, very classy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihH1LRf5qkdTOrbmQEwNKUPd3JdD1k78zg7FmewwMK2QH-XYu5wUfL2cVKXlUx3yh0ksDGNZgUcgOzGUPO-z5-LdGgCw2CNoakG9A4Ncb5un1Nz_opZsEhfcer6e0i6xGOrcuQciMjpBw/s1600/IMG_7454.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihH1LRf5qkdTOrbmQEwNKUPd3JdD1k78zg7FmewwMK2QH-XYu5wUfL2cVKXlUx3yh0ksDGNZgUcgOzGUPO-z5-LdGgCw2CNoakG9A4Ncb5un1Nz_opZsEhfcer6e0i6xGOrcuQciMjpBw/s640/IMG_7454.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH_5PjulI_fLEJ-KO9JK2jL5keyOb8sgA5pRRf4YMbSF5yb7Bitx2sqZDtV_vj95x4Bh5_NZFmkulV6AeUZkAyLML58b6tVXByba_lPfg5ORvhZCTcgqp039ODrmgmOBdOXLjSH9FVt84/s1600/IMG_7455.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH_5PjulI_fLEJ-KO9JK2jL5keyOb8sgA5pRRf4YMbSF5yb7Bitx2sqZDtV_vj95x4Bh5_NZFmkulV6AeUZkAyLML58b6tVXByba_lPfg5ORvhZCTcgqp039ODrmgmOBdOXLjSH9FVt84/s640/IMG_7455.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-33iRD9jLQ38LRKz-uEflwAUtAqyxQ9kkjuzKsF8Enrisldz7UU8MGOatzBiuBkanyHglT2BC7PEnqYDqVi9yMUK1YvgkABPeV5V_D3f7C-2c7q07zTCiWJWpSFcGcw58S0V4ZXyMnCw/s1600/IMG_7456.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-33iRD9jLQ38LRKz-uEflwAUtAqyxQ9kkjuzKsF8Enrisldz7UU8MGOatzBiuBkanyHglT2BC7PEnqYDqVi9yMUK1YvgkABPeV5V_D3f7C-2c7q07zTCiWJWpSFcGcw58S0V4ZXyMnCw/s640/IMG_7456.JPG" /></a>Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-6183764152052791692015-01-21T08:37:00.000-08:002015-01-21T21:34:39.988-08:00Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Village Vertical 2002-2012<b>Domaine Robert Chevillon</b> is considered by many the top producer of Nuits-Saint-Georges in Burgundy. Certainly not the only one, as Henri Gouges, Faiveley, Leroy, Comte Liger-Belair, Meo-Camuzet and others make admirable wines there, but the sheer breadth of vineyard holdings combined with long-term track record of Chevillon puts them into the highest bracket. Recently I was able to taste a vertical of his village vieilles vignes (old vines) bottling, which is always a very good representation of the village, domaine's style and vintage.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Wines</span></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaEQA98JH1yeT_Yhk-VzOkZVzDYrg8ah32xyg0WZmxFTQrSZJMhcXKkJFhayIrIBS-me9Vf1XUSX7ih6HJ1YH468jg60eTS2mDD3nUlnfajoVefgogCU2YZBXTZL-s7mE86kgloZKE5Pw/s1600/IMG_7394.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaEQA98JH1yeT_Yhk-VzOkZVzDYrg8ah32xyg0WZmxFTQrSZJMhcXKkJFhayIrIBS-me9Vf1XUSX7ih6HJ1YH468jg60eTS2mDD3nUlnfajoVefgogCU2YZBXTZL-s7mE86kgloZKE5Pw/s640/IMG_7394.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2002 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges vieilles vignes</b> - 30 min after opening. Nose: wow, great nose, great maturity and complexity, medicinal herbs, licorice, meat / game. Palate: almost silky, sweet, long, medicinal licoricey slightly bitter-sweet finish, yummy, still a little tannic, touch of rusticity, fragrance of flowers / stems, hints of tomato paste and beets, game, distant campfire, salty mineral bath, champagne-like aftertaste (in a red!). Great food wine and feels like this is what Burgundy is all about - complex, imperfect, delicious, absolutely awesome with food! (duck? oh yeah!) My favorite from all the vintages of this wine this century. From how great this is tasting, I can imagine that 2002 1er's must be spectacular.<br />
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<b>2005 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges vieilles vignes</b> - this is probably objectively Chevillon's best village wine of the century, but it still needs more development time to come together and mellow out. Not as meaty as the 2002, this has a lot of everything - density of material, acid and tannin. Almost chalky, with long, bright finish that spreads and lingers in your mouth, a slightly creamy / cheesy flavor, cherries with a hint of orange peel, with real energy and lift. Give this at least 3 more years.<br />
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<b>2006 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges vieilles vignes</b> - drank this over three days. Showing signs of maturity, secondary flavors quite developed, but still with some mild tannins present. Sweet medicinal spicy berries (cherries, strawberries), caramelized root veggies, menthol, pine, flower pollen, Asian spices (almost like Sichuan peppercorns and star anise), hibiscus tea and bright orange (peel) flavor, and also a little bit like a grape bubble gum. Not as concentrated as the 2002 or 2005, but overall, an enjoyable wine in a good spot on the maturity curve.<br />
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<b>2007 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges vieilles vignes</b> - had this several times in the past year - a light, more elegant vintage, this wine is at or slightly past its prime, it has been oscillating between being ethereally nuanced, with elegant aromatic sweet root veggies and licoricey tones and slightly hollow, light/thin uncomplicated maturity. Can't quite decide.<br />
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<b>2008 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges vieilles vignes</b> - tasted as a part of the Chevillon 2008 horizontal a few months ago (documented <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2014/08/robert-chevillon-2008s-6-years-on.html">here</a>), this wine was the weak link in the otherwise very impressive set of Chevillon's 2008's. Nose: hibiscus and herbs, at the peak. Palate: good chocolate and spice flavor but finishes very short as flavor fades almost immediately, this is light and savory without enough substance. Uninspiring.<br />
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<b>2009 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges vieilles vignes</b> - drank over several days. Imagine rich "melt-in-your-mouth" beef short ribs, with roasted veggies, and pomegranate glaze. That's what this wine tastes like! Nose: roasted coffee, game / paté, bay leaf, and zesty brown (allspice?) spices. Palate: smooth, velvety, "pomegranate meets chocolate" accents. I have always loved Chevillon's impactful 2009's, and this wine was no exception. Somehow the richness of the vintage goes well with the "beef stew" meatiness of the Nuits-Saint-Georges village, sprinkled with zesty spices. Very good, slightly darker than other vintages, with coffee and bitter-sweet herb nuances, tobacco, leather, beef stew (or short ribs), echos of sweet stewed carrots, and softly tannic velvety palate impression. Also perfect with Chinese chicken stew (infused with soy, sugar, black vinegar, star anise, cinnamon, and Sichuan peppercorns, <i>see photo below</i>). The mouth is left tingling with gentle spices for minutes. The 2009's have been enjoyable from the get-go, and this seems open for business, and should continue so for many years with no signs of shutting down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20eEVuePuweCvEeC-Sfr9rs6yrrKsBJ_I8htbcEuVKDATRTOq6Y0EFpTORKJrlc4_67eEHdpD99zTGayStDDGZ82WtJVcGSyuHm4DEahEiJV4nimaV-aQSDyKCVTTHJwE9Z2xUuI7qvo/s1600/chevillon+2009+nsg.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20eEVuePuweCvEeC-Sfr9rs6yrrKsBJ_I8htbcEuVKDATRTOq6Y0EFpTORKJrlc4_67eEHdpD99zTGayStDDGZ82WtJVcGSyuHm4DEahEiJV4nimaV-aQSDyKCVTTHJwE9Z2xUuI7qvo/s640/chevillon+2009+nsg.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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<b>2010 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges vieilles vignes</b> - had this wine 3-4 times in the past year with consistent notes. Very charming, pretty, subtly honeyed red berries, hibiscus tea, distant herbs, this is drinking great already and will continue for several years at least. Very well balanced wine, the only detractor being consistently medium-short finish, which puts this behind few other vintages in this lineup.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWzumYMauLbfSBD1a9zxVbAt3thXBAIf0UpXb9BvC8e27dr3wfj7KnSuuBxxBZ-8bTboOZVqVhoYajKtocgXYelLyX1ghiN2PIM3DJbuVzUiC-Uy7NYJFN25TWQBApoJ37LIsORlCHFGc/s1600/chevillon+2010+nsg.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWzumYMauLbfSBD1a9zxVbAt3thXBAIf0UpXb9BvC8e27dr3wfj7KnSuuBxxBZ-8bTboOZVqVhoYajKtocgXYelLyX1ghiN2PIM3DJbuVzUiC-Uy7NYJFN25TWQBApoJ37LIsORlCHFGc/s640/chevillon+2010+nsg.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
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<b>2012 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges vieilles vignes</b> - drank this over several days. This was my least favorite. Perhaps due to its youth, but I suspect the vintage has much to do with it. This wine is fluffy and vacuous, lacking shape or depth. Nose: smoke and pomegranate, fresh cut flower stems. Palate: tart, smoky cranberry / cherry fruit salad, very young and primary, slowly building tannins, stemmy woody spices, doesn't seem to have focus or depth of material, finish is medium-short, with sour aftertaste. Maybe time will allow structure to reveal itself and the fruit to deepen, but right now, it's unformed, mellow, somewhat hollow / shallow, oaky berry/stem compote, and quite unpleasant and cheap-tasting.<br />
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<b>2012 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges vieilles vignes blanc</b> (white) - nose: yummy, sweet, ripe, grapey. Palate: tasty, good substance, fleshy, grapey, lemon marmalade, spiced peach. On the other hand, a bit thick, ripe and not too fine. Overall, not bad, but lack of minerality makes this come across thicker and new-worldly. Decent acidity though, if one tries to compare to California. Should be a crowd pleaser, especially for new world Chardonnay drinkers who are transitioning to white burgundy. Creamy, buttery aftertaste. This is a relatively rare wine, hence the price is rather high ($70-100), and I while I appreciate it, I don't think it's worth the $$.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjANCdzCLKWAwsRar_nNoqOVhkIsEG9U8KbHzBg-M2WW4CuHyLTbQmxqRje8HpYasqGzy6Vm6aWJJz-Vg0Q8zQ_rNc2QpMsV1tGJkd2XQpIT2GO_ym_E7pp9hUnkF70IBGhQJojNf5TbPQ/s1600/IMG_7360.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjANCdzCLKWAwsRar_nNoqOVhkIsEG9U8KbHzBg-M2WW4CuHyLTbQmxqRje8HpYasqGzy6Vm6aWJJz-Vg0Q8zQ_rNc2QpMsV1tGJkd2XQpIT2GO_ym_E7pp9hUnkF70IBGhQJojNf5TbPQ/s640/IMG_7360.JPG" /></a><br />
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Village-level wines of Nuits-Saint-Georges (NSG) are expected to have some rusticity and meatiness, especially if compared to the more prestigious villages of Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee. Chevillon's Nuits-Saint-Georges in particular are full of spicy cherry, herbs, earthy veggies, licorice, and beefy / gamy, smoky food-friendly goodness, more so as they age. They always strongly reflect personality of a vintage, combined with the <i>relatively</i> (un)refined style of the domaine, though they never seem to have the polish of the more boutique producers like Leroy, Meo-Camuzet, or Comte Liger-Belair. They are tasty, with medium-short finish (being the main detractor for me), except for the very best vintages (like 2002, 2005, and 2009). Although they obviously do not approach the heights of Chevillon's tremendous 1er cru's (Les Saint Georges, Cailles, Vaucrains, etc...), they provide plenty of pleasure for what used to be a great bargain. Alas, not anymore as prices have kept climbing, especially if purchased via the official importer Kermit Lynch - the 2012 village wine is nearly $80, and it is my least favorite vintage in the line-up so far. You can still get older vintages for ~$50-60, they are better and readier to drink, and have a whole lot more attractive looking labels (than the one they adopted in 2011).Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-83312090892169218482015-01-03T13:54:00.003-08:002015-01-04T09:05:50.513-08:00Benu - 3 Michelin StarsBenu restaurant in San Francisco has recently been promoted to 3-Michelin-Star, an elite designation of top restaurants in the world. In the Bay Area, we <a href="http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2014/10/21/michelin-san-francisco-bay-area-2015-benu-and-saison-notch-three-stars/">only</a> have four: The French Laundry, The Restaurant at Meadowood (both in Napa Valley), and the newly promoted Saison and Benu, both in San Francisco.<br />
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I headed over to <a href="http://www.benusf.com/">Benu</a>, for my inaugural visit, to find out for myself what the fuss was all about. A fixed menu of numerous bite-size courses, Asian-fusion style, with an incredibly light touch, was impressive. Almost every decadent ingredient one can think of was somehow represented. The wine list was fairly impressive and versatile as well, with aged bottles of DRC at prices not far above the retail prices of current releases (so relative "value", one might say). Based on a recommendation of a wine guru friend and a Benu regular, I brought a bottle of white burgundy which I had been cellaring for a few years, and indeed it worked very well with the menu. Master Sommelier - Yoon Ha - one of a <a href="http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/sommeliers-of-the-year-2013">handful</a> of Food and Wine Magazine 2013 Sommeliers of the Year - started us off with a tasty bubbly - an off-the-beaten-path glass of Cremant du Jura. He then did an expert job with his commentary on my grand cru. The "Montrachet" style wine glasses were perfectly suited for our 2006 grand cru Batard-Montrachet from Bernard Morey - his last vintage before the famed domain was split between his two sons - Vincent and Thomas - who, in my opinion, are yet to reach their dad's level of quality.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Wine</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
2006 Bernard Morey Batard-Montrachet. Gorgeous. Vanilla bean, more pear than apple, spice, coconut shavings, creme brulee, smoke, some well-integrated oak, butter cream, hint of mint, luxurious viscous texture, weighty, medium acidity, luxurious long finish, no signs of decline, better than a year ago, seamless and endlessly complex, and could probably continue to improve for years. Was a great match for the Asian influenced menu of Benu.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChrwLtU5UhmQ6bDzltlWcwxNGlClwasAjSeyFlzOp4XMCkCm0etktJjaykF2YXL2KqI8ZfImlsMLQe7D3dfZXBL7MMRFZuDKhZCfW5JyCH5NMM-CXcqM0sLUwYx9UxCb9-KoiD3rXOV8/s1600/IMG_7151.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChrwLtU5UhmQ6bDzltlWcwxNGlClwasAjSeyFlzOp4XMCkCm0etktJjaykF2YXL2KqI8ZfImlsMLQe7D3dfZXBL7MMRFZuDKhZCfW5JyCH5NMM-CXcqM0sLUwYx9UxCb9-KoiD3rXOV8/s640/IMG_7151.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Dishes</span></b> (displayed in the order they were served)<br />
All dishes were well executed, in my opinion, with great attention to textures and quality of ingredients. Every bite left me wishing for one more, but I put a star (*) next to my favorite dishes that I wanted ten times more of (!).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFChu919vCMkM5TL3H49yS85ftcXv0d8X8t-CX8T31wM8wXH24zdLFmg0fLuoeQw-ZqF8h7GVfWqaz5Y0mdjY8-TlPKS_GdLRoZTKtc_b8Wn2D_g-2-3_z55RQY0T8j3zAXZfi-yr9F5c/s1600/IMG_7145.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFChu919vCMkM5TL3H49yS85ftcXv0d8X8t-CX8T31wM8wXH24zdLFmg0fLuoeQw-ZqF8h7GVfWqaz5Y0mdjY8-TlPKS_GdLRoZTKtc_b8Wn2D_g-2-3_z55RQY0T8j3zAXZfi-yr9F5c/s640/IMG_7145.JPG" /></a><br />
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Thousand-year-old quail egg, potage, ginger<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmB4ewDGgS3L5Q3coW79ILDqPUwFNdmrnqPhpKFiSYS6ZNNNTsHIccvNvmkxaC2GCl4szfSVOwgkgZB3bw-1ZGzCRGP1aBfoOZ0NTaNiEyf4FuLeZqeiwBJaCoXdphvK2UUqThmok4zZU/s1600/IMG_7148.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmB4ewDGgS3L5Q3coW79ILDqPUwFNdmrnqPhpKFiSYS6ZNNNTsHIccvNvmkxaC2GCl4szfSVOwgkgZB3bw-1ZGzCRGP1aBfoOZ0NTaNiEyf4FuLeZqeiwBJaCoXdphvK2UUqThmok4zZU/s320/IMG_7148.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6YkdI6z7QoSHB02f6HIfpjDXDCvTilsNYNYn6grquwP5O2yZMitrNDb9sb2VgEHnk_FP4o1vjyXp3epY744rOhRRpWiVmus3xRwjqdncfEZwhCJ8UeKh47RsD2INy9Gsh3QVDAovLANc/s1600/IMG_7149.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6YkdI6z7QoSHB02f6HIfpjDXDCvTilsNYNYn6grquwP5O2yZMitrNDb9sb2VgEHnk_FP4o1vjyXp3epY744rOhRRpWiVmus3xRwjqdncfEZwhCJ8UeKh47RsD2INy9Gsh3QVDAovLANc/s320/IMG_7149.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1gqRdPV4TluzZKvYZdbQIu8S_8e2zwrFjourhsMGrTwAc-MFnYgpJbaRd2Bkn1U7VpVTq71oLeqEr7dP5wW8A0SqEflIcriGc36MHvXtrRccViH6KgWhedJgarOZ5IFx8Oszez0kxbBE/s1600/IMG_7150.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1gqRdPV4TluzZKvYZdbQIu8S_8e2zwrFjourhsMGrTwAc-MFnYgpJbaRd2Bkn1U7VpVTq71oLeqEr7dP5wW8A0SqEflIcriGc36MHvXtrRccViH6KgWhedJgarOZ5IFx8Oszez0kxbBE/s320/IMG_7150.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Oyster, pork-belly, kimchi (*)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPEkoOmJDsJ0_Jwoousuk4rro-wJTdPkDauBQfmaZn2Ij7S3W_yN-HbmCRGqleerADLzBc6Jcak8mHDC-3nSj3Q_f8B4aBaIWLZFlUkc5ZaBrR8o-kNq_s9Lzc_nFIaB_EIkB-Aj50N0/s1600/IMG_7152.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPEkoOmJDsJ0_Jwoousuk4rro-wJTdPkDauBQfmaZn2Ij7S3W_yN-HbmCRGqleerADLzBc6Jcak8mHDC-3nSj3Q_f8B4aBaIWLZFlUkc5ZaBrR8o-kNq_s9Lzc_nFIaB_EIkB-Aj50N0/s320/IMG_7152.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQDuRFd3_EHJugZASHsHj-jP8QwgSOEIJmrUl13ALvD-HCSw9LpZgFfjffKiSydd4VumVsxt0jdWbkx8dhOb2_1ooYDgr_AKlX5ksS2Cjx6Bzmk8_xbXhyn4kTcOMg-U_nPA2Dc2ztEKw/s1600/IMG_7153.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQDuRFd3_EHJugZASHsHj-jP8QwgSOEIJmrUl13ALvD-HCSw9LpZgFfjffKiSydd4VumVsxt0jdWbkx8dhOb2_1ooYDgr_AKlX5ksS2Cjx6Bzmk8_xbXhyn4kTcOMg-U_nPA2Dc2ztEKw/s320/IMG_7153.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Towel<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePW0yyW6yNP5Dx69TG7eVfm_XrKGrfymf-fi1CnQ5tMddFshUD_R4oBatTKe10bGksKeXKB03ICNfd04uo2nzuKKnvLzbpuI5thbfeyp1bP7IL4RRnOdYL3TZKTX6H2Rd592gyuUihe8/s1600/IMG_7154.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePW0yyW6yNP5Dx69TG7eVfm_XrKGrfymf-fi1CnQ5tMddFshUD_R4oBatTKe10bGksKeXKB03ICNfd04uo2nzuKKnvLzbpuI5thbfeyp1bP7IL4RRnOdYL3TZKTX6H2Rd592gyuUihe8/s320/IMG_7154.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG4IlqKiqqjzR_2SU-WJaa5kmCzalMsBV0Rk0FkmpnWn1h6xA1olROk7IENEYjihL9zsG0AvRS-pBNeRBzFiM4-MzxgC80jUsePbe9TJnCI6hnfHQ_j_XhaRMvWfqoY-7fhlBbNDnMrOs/s1600/IMG_7155.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG4IlqKiqqjzR_2SU-WJaa5kmCzalMsBV0Rk0FkmpnWn1h6xA1olROk7IENEYjihL9zsG0AvRS-pBNeRBzFiM4-MzxgC80jUsePbe9TJnCI6hnfHQ_j_XhaRMvWfqoY-7fhlBbNDnMrOs/s320/IMG_7155.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Fluke, sesame leaf, daikon (*)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEienaBDASpTjYWTw0Jc3oiTD16iQIo-uxLZYovt_-o4-xxBQtiYdKeU_cg-cBCNoRCF52ZemccsUHzJMLr1H5RI4Ui7DD3l1yudvW6ZxfRXGZIaqN7yNgPNVLN7nuJevMV4bIgcXbOnjHA/s1600/IMG_7156.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEienaBDASpTjYWTw0Jc3oiTD16iQIo-uxLZYovt_-o4-xxBQtiYdKeU_cg-cBCNoRCF52ZemccsUHzJMLr1H5RI4Ui7DD3l1yudvW6ZxfRXGZIaqN7yNgPNVLN7nuJevMV4bIgcXbOnjHA/s320/IMG_7156.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkDz4-Fw6NvBQ75BUEsfzbkX4lS9b8JFUTNN_qTS0DbC2b0W_gy_HIMC_Y7nVvDYicuQQg22mjMkQcm7-ASdMYA0B7wueeOyb1jrp8xeBNIGVi0lSdPwmsvqa3DvRiK2T4JIym8EqPZA0/s1600/IMG_7157.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkDz4-Fw6NvBQ75BUEsfzbkX4lS9b8JFUTNN_qTS0DbC2b0W_gy_HIMC_Y7nVvDYicuQQg22mjMkQcm7-ASdMYA0B7wueeOyb1jrp8xeBNIGVi0lSdPwmsvqa3DvRiK2T4JIym8EqPZA0/s320/IMG_7157.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Smelt, mayonnaise, mustard (*)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZioVLzMh8zm5Tg63ktrLHUg75qbdT8n-vU1klb_QcVl6nAylYUjPcNBZrhQAT9KywmPnQmkhh_A1rFGFt_JlRArFrbCMdzSNVlAkIsUuQKha48sCBoR-8B1eLoVgLPQBEI2Rknapclcw/s1600/IMG_7159.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZioVLzMh8zm5Tg63ktrLHUg75qbdT8n-vU1klb_QcVl6nAylYUjPcNBZrhQAT9KywmPnQmkhh_A1rFGFt_JlRArFrbCMdzSNVlAkIsUuQKha48sCBoR-8B1eLoVgLPQBEI2Rknapclcw/s320/IMG_7159.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2f8BA0lYv3M7QhX1OLJS8WZFXfeB5DL7gYw33wcJkc8BFWsafpW0YiFSEROuItZC1fjxKXNH2yX5xh3O5YOsbkalGXE09J6ico2sILF821fEK-baePQu0rzLtewymDcNvIEg6-8x4_B0/s1600/IMG_7160.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2f8BA0lYv3M7QhX1OLJS8WZFXfeB5DL7gYw33wcJkc8BFWsafpW0YiFSEROuItZC1fjxKXNH2yX5xh3O5YOsbkalGXE09J6ico2sILF821fEK-baePQu0rzLtewymDcNvIEg6-8x4_B0/s320/IMG_7160.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Monkfish liver, trout roe, perilla (*)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohcct5_7iKeD6OKW6T4-IFpS0mqvxjIB_niIIrycd4xWqnxmSjwn_kGPxfnDIR4Hoib03Eg7_-PVcB_UZs18QJqhNzc0Q6-oPNROYKOEzVJrNkWy7BHUlOPvNccluXu3SR9uxWevm84c/s1600/IMG_7161.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohcct5_7iKeD6OKW6T4-IFpS0mqvxjIB_niIIrycd4xWqnxmSjwn_kGPxfnDIR4Hoib03Eg7_-PVcB_UZs18QJqhNzc0Q6-oPNROYKOEzVJrNkWy7BHUlOPvNccluXu3SR9uxWevm84c/s320/IMG_7161.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5783tYgtZlgHS_6ejU-Dqze32ILO9PqsJb171oLg0KYXOHW6kwsYwkyFcZpYvMp0MFwNpSyRrXrpeyKW-FzhcPRyYcSuF0K007twFz2rjgBw6Px1OuU4VILkWvLhSXaaZLXgTj5L5tVY/s1600/IMG_7162.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5783tYgtZlgHS_6ejU-Dqze32ILO9PqsJb171oLg0KYXOHW6kwsYwkyFcZpYvMp0MFwNpSyRrXrpeyKW-FzhcPRyYcSuF0K007twFz2rjgBw6Px1OuU4VILkWvLhSXaaZLXgTj5L5tVY/s320/IMG_7162.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Lobster xiao long bao (Shanghai-style dumpling, with lobster broth inside)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeFXkTyFAzZW531WksRXCL7II-vP7TWDm38Lyu4Y1KnPbp9tzHh7m9sdSf8u1bMNschX_36x5qraoiW4bg-_SfVjHLbk9lvx83QQM8PSFWYsl0tTQQOCZDdabCt_6TqkaSb523JzCBueI/s1600/IMG_7163.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeFXkTyFAzZW531WksRXCL7II-vP7TWDm38Lyu4Y1KnPbp9tzHh7m9sdSf8u1bMNschX_36x5qraoiW4bg-_SfVjHLbk9lvx83QQM8PSFWYsl0tTQQOCZDdabCt_6TqkaSb523JzCBueI/s320/IMG_7163.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7EUUvta3bHMJQZL4vPesI0tGcOp2MfEAFxmF1FQ_HNpo41qzA3Ndr4am_c-B6_3cM-o1DFhCf_EHQHaQ73rqAA6IXeRHtlpyrCBhOnFrEtrcfkZS15L8wMM-Y-9sT2k-WTdF1mkpyKP8/s1600/IMG_7164.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7EUUvta3bHMJQZL4vPesI0tGcOp2MfEAFxmF1FQ_HNpo41qzA3Ndr4am_c-B6_3cM-o1DFhCf_EHQHaQ73rqAA6IXeRHtlpyrCBhOnFrEtrcfkZS15L8wMM-Y-9sT2k-WTdF1mkpyKP8/s320/IMG_7164.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGeKjCOKM-qHEAROG4HWDGZ-bY7dhJIu07siqHaVSF-69_37XNfu6gJZWF7MG9v3iQdD26Wo2TgWI0EOFaQ_2ALbXb8385nE2cTyQwHyyOjM3iuPYxtKa8nrSy92eN_r8eGrh2c_liFAw/s1600/IMG_7166.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGeKjCOKM-qHEAROG4HWDGZ-bY7dhJIu07siqHaVSF-69_37XNfu6gJZWF7MG9v3iQdD26Wo2TgWI0EOFaQ_2ALbXb8385nE2cTyQwHyyOjM3iuPYxtKa8nrSy92eN_r8eGrh2c_liFAw/s320/IMG_7166.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Bread with honey butter (*)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJruoZ2znAo3OOetwJ5zEWc2RGOPWjO8fqvxdP1Ja27H6teUyqsc5QIk_Vc7IGKZOUcfrARXN5zGH9EiXCzPAyZrxepW68vdBuD71KbhhbOH4cA-46_yQWyeD4PcS2MIVCdtnsEfR_TX0/s1600/IMG_7168.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJruoZ2znAo3OOetwJ5zEWc2RGOPWjO8fqvxdP1Ja27H6teUyqsc5QIk_Vc7IGKZOUcfrARXN5zGH9EiXCzPAyZrxepW68vdBuD71KbhhbOH4cA-46_yQWyeD4PcS2MIVCdtnsEfR_TX0/s320/IMG_7168.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61e2x7ymwKl9S-ArJaaFg9ot1duxMHCYgwSPq7EM4r8JYxVhjCehzA_F9ntL4Yfv97yDVFviRB-cskNeLHuggtOODB-0-IqV2q6OeqgWp5hrii6D_okrCCDCnVu88AV5JjlfCmfaobWw/s1600/IMG_7169.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61e2x7ymwKl9S-ArJaaFg9ot1duxMHCYgwSPq7EM4r8JYxVhjCehzA_F9ntL4Yfv97yDVFviRB-cskNeLHuggtOODB-0-IqV2q6OeqgWp5hrii6D_okrCCDCnVu88AV5JjlfCmfaobWw/s320/IMG_7169.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Grilled abalone with chicken liver (*)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim8GI3F3vvBmeC4D2i7ZY49QH0LHIZwr4VBW-tlPmp4BQzrGWiO90e1QT71ZJ_XM_ddAT_uF0cJzag7QNqQKL0glweCpM3cbx3NLD7-6akz_D683M3iq8yx1VXtPhg6jc3h-96TrnqzH0/s1600/IMG_7275.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim8GI3F3vvBmeC4D2i7ZY49QH0LHIZwr4VBW-tlPmp4BQzrGWiO90e1QT71ZJ_XM_ddAT_uF0cJzag7QNqQKL0glweCpM3cbx3NLD7-6akz_D683M3iq8yx1VXtPhg6jc3h-96TrnqzH0/s320/IMG_7275.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Eel, porridge, pine<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhowkPH_fXw2bdEonJyw4ZJqZ2NNQPcB-vk_N5RxZ_NUTHx6DHjFlMsoSQRlYT5ZLS9EKq6E-kNpmbE3KAtlrVZDjJrS6VJaO8qw5Q0kw2AVHWqW7U-eZoGBj7d8KqEuO2i86upHkPkAM4/s1600/IMG_7171.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhowkPH_fXw2bdEonJyw4ZJqZ2NNQPcB-vk_N5RxZ_NUTHx6DHjFlMsoSQRlYT5ZLS9EKq6E-kNpmbE3KAtlrVZDjJrS6VJaO8qw5Q0kw2AVHWqW7U-eZoGBj7d8KqEuO2i86upHkPkAM4/s320/IMG_7171.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTDJEmnHtblGImld0H02visazg44U1nB9JMYJWCeD3gU-GF_LDec5EJi4Ch_UeRixJ5wJl1iUSTSCDxaDAHnr_sKxCtCxuhDVcP6jiz7iF-OaXrWobEhtqXvx_1bWr6TEWJf_pBqbUVjc/s1600/IMG_7172.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTDJEmnHtblGImld0H02visazg44U1nB9JMYJWCeD3gU-GF_LDec5EJi4Ch_UeRixJ5wJl1iUSTSCDxaDAHnr_sKxCtCxuhDVcP6jiz7iF-OaXrWobEhtqXvx_1bWr6TEWJf_pBqbUVjc/s320/IMG_7172.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaFd7Q_az1-cBG8RUDVU-xUH5PaWZPplauFwCiWY1RazILcxBsQ-IkqBpnUiif8SnWObtvbFsyxytzyvFG0faCxRlzzsz6UdwGlhLWaVJrVBA1kn7HjR4qftvcx-U9_CS5gUz6r1Ocjkw/s1600/IMG_7173.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaFd7Q_az1-cBG8RUDVU-xUH5PaWZPplauFwCiWY1RazILcxBsQ-IkqBpnUiif8SnWObtvbFsyxytzyvFG0faCxRlzzsz6UdwGlhLWaVJrVBA1kn7HjR4qftvcx-U9_CS5gUz6r1Ocjkw/s320/IMG_7173.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF_d4OejO0bj62HDtfMEJ7Wbj4_U0HAOlOJyIZJrthRdi6W0SzEw7-uoTZDsIcwAXIp3pm6KUQKmoszeFFv9JRLC_HhsO7O9Qkv3gXMSTIHnf0c8fBapm88Hky4Axum4lDoJlb_L9Vyto/s1600/IMG_7174.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF_d4OejO0bj62HDtfMEJ7Wbj4_U0HAOlOJyIZJrthRdi6W0SzEw7-uoTZDsIcwAXIp3pm6KUQKmoszeFFv9JRLC_HhsO7O9Qkv3gXMSTIHnf0c8fBapm88Hky4Axum4lDoJlb_L9Vyto/s320/IMG_7174.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ydPQSd4-Vpl4zqUY-Y8nTB7okMRSxV79Vw7KD44iPBnkIlwJGgps0mFJ9bU4zk2It7TDkbsVR5Io9xROfEQPnjPYXbX0KAi1sPf_o8PkrB2Fo4vvilSnrkmEuaU1OIEp_AqTkJMPlFc/s1600/IMG_7175.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ydPQSd4-Vpl4zqUY-Y8nTB7okMRSxV79Vw7KD44iPBnkIlwJGgps0mFJ9bU4zk2It7TDkbsVR5Io9xROfEQPnjPYXbX0KAi1sPf_o8PkrB2Fo4vvilSnrkmEuaU1OIEp_AqTkJMPlFc/s320/IMG_7175.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Frog leg, mountain yam, celtuce<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn-csKs0Vmbe6kDbUk3leppA6IHqqM8zFfGUxtJtt-DaSIk8KpxT-tP0IjzX_QyKx_wOujsPI8kVqtnhJDaeU8Q33M7N8g8FMqSCp05p5O3LDOnwtOrubhTu_6LSJ_upa-EgE9vsSWSaM/s1600/IMG_7176.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn-csKs0Vmbe6kDbUk3leppA6IHqqM8zFfGUxtJtt-DaSIk8KpxT-tP0IjzX_QyKx_wOujsPI8kVqtnhJDaeU8Q33M7N8g8FMqSCp05p5O3LDOnwtOrubhTu_6LSJ_upa-EgE9vsSWSaM/s320/IMG_7176.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Horse mackerel, kohlrabi, charred scallion<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA_pCDc42NWfvFyjxcXFk2RRkMA7VnOJ_PWMxoHRE48XYZrSqg9oCUYvHqV_G2ARwF-E_zC7ZeVyPrfacWUD6L1WhkY-IVfij4OgNZ4tPsyewldPAeU59__A1ivqmdklHQG39Hc5GoqGI/s1600/IMG_7177.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA_pCDc42NWfvFyjxcXFk2RRkMA7VnOJ_PWMxoHRE48XYZrSqg9oCUYvHqV_G2ARwF-E_zC7ZeVyPrfacWUD6L1WhkY-IVfij4OgNZ4tPsyewldPAeU59__A1ivqmdklHQG39Hc5GoqGI/s320/IMG_7177.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Chestnut bun w/ black truffle duck mousse (*)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKMluOtwD1Z9eHw5fpxeMtnCxbq1etZBphdr0YK2UTB3fY2Wrk_YYr3USBIZ6n8moXtp6g8c0yoOUvf-EkiCU_t1GwoMOJiVB9nTMWx0crWZmIJticwg9ImqvRGEz2Eu3fr_yHUNQRlr0/s1600/IMG_7178.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKMluOtwD1Z9eHw5fpxeMtnCxbq1etZBphdr0YK2UTB3fY2Wrk_YYr3USBIZ6n8moXtp6g8c0yoOUvf-EkiCU_t1GwoMOJiVB9nTMWx0crWZmIJticwg9ImqvRGEz2Eu3fr_yHUNQRlr0/s320/IMG_7178.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSwM4iMVO5keLJqVG8KDqEiXKTJWEV1hS8lG3J5McoR6ReQNBVgWUAndQYE-WqDw_SPZ5DNhXLpuclfQD9tgqHyxj_4LXJsJYMZYMlnx9-pwzsrTCKVHZs-Wd9inNFQxfdtnMiXDZh3pk/s1600/IMG_7273.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSwM4iMVO5keLJqVG8KDqEiXKTJWEV1hS8lG3J5McoR6ReQNBVgWUAndQYE-WqDw_SPZ5DNhXLpuclfQD9tgqHyxj_4LXJsJYMZYMlnx9-pwzsrTCKVHZs-Wd9inNFQxfdtnMiXDZh3pk/s320/IMG_7273.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Roast quail, chard, chestnut, aged tangerine peel<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0N_bxUanHY2B_Rf-kjiQGx2rU2fwGDReVlzU4FpihUcecw2KNQuNVDw6qYIL-jpjs95ZW_UJCtOdp7vQ0i55hjr3gAICBzHxO1F589Fj4jRo2vETgsQCaZ6YoueGjONaaTVFDaf8fWp4/s1600/IMG_7180.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0N_bxUanHY2B_Rf-kjiQGx2rU2fwGDReVlzU4FpihUcecw2KNQuNVDw6qYIL-jpjs95ZW_UJCtOdp7vQ0i55hjr3gAICBzHxO1F589Fj4jRo2vETgsQCaZ6YoueGjONaaTVFDaf8fWp4/s320/IMG_7180.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Braised beef in pear juice<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7AZCx3sLDeWW8m0clRp2zRuvY-Se9L7Tu25TAwdbUGONC1-GjRKrA6F3U0Mk5WDIpiu_koyJyGhgqfW-6BELQa6-QRLEns9onxESkmXpr2fUJor9S6zbLY6xn-ZYUchyphenhyphenJX0noa1pUNIE/s1600/IMG_7276.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7AZCx3sLDeWW8m0clRp2zRuvY-Se9L7Tu25TAwdbUGONC1-GjRKrA6F3U0Mk5WDIpiu_koyJyGhgqfW-6BELQa6-QRLEns9onxESkmXpr2fUJor9S6zbLY6xn-ZYUchyphenhyphenJX0noa1pUNIE/s320/IMG_7276.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
"Shark fin soup", dungeness crab, Jinhua ham custard<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-SYyIzhEuy25Lx0E2SnZfG8wBNzeBfvM-L7dfmaeA2YYU9F7qed-pqHrox6fGlqZum0hphz2o_ZrqRivFGUJdtC1-khFPVM7KlVX_sOGcDws5hqJrIfQhMSZUHoKIxzmbaMkrWdW4iE/s1600/IMG_7182.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-SYyIzhEuy25Lx0E2SnZfG8wBNzeBfvM-L7dfmaeA2YYU9F7qed-pqHrox6fGlqZum0hphz2o_ZrqRivFGUJdtC1-khFPVM7KlVX_sOGcDws5hqJrIfQhMSZUHoKIxzmbaMkrWdW4iE/s320/IMG_7182.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4H8qvDyeOCZP4PYF3L9gF_TnFYBv6vq3zBsEYMscvOUr0G0GEtfhNLrrg_isirxRDTXa7TvOPBu4vI7khbjVLUZx7x98RtAefrnDs4qTV4BRw2CIWT4OBJxw099IYn-oT-a7NhMvcseQ/s1600/IMG_7183.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4H8qvDyeOCZP4PYF3L9gF_TnFYBv6vq3zBsEYMscvOUr0G0GEtfhNLrrg_isirxRDTXa7TvOPBu4vI7khbjVLUZx7x98RtAefrnDs4qTV4BRw2CIWT4OBJxw099IYn-oT-a7NhMvcseQ/s320/IMG_7183.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0jnyOiPbBMNxwUB9ed62SYCZZjHmCx1zish8U4uGf0rA35ivanQL4Hg-4crW9wYwjh3khAZwImzx13P0zZs1O62YYrnfwYvnIHHUVVAkU1ELm281OsjO-RKoS9PShfgH0pnDZA_6YhSA/s1600/IMG_7184.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0jnyOiPbBMNxwUB9ed62SYCZZjHmCx1zish8U4uGf0rA35ivanQL4Hg-4crW9wYwjh3khAZwImzx13P0zZs1O62YYrnfwYvnIHHUVVAkU1ELm281OsjO-RKoS9PShfgH0pnDZA_6YhSA/s320/IMG_7184.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdyqAYHCCK6PndtvGsr-Ws5awDu-3-Tt20rEI8Pf_2tXQy46vF8cSQKxeGgOZ_yT_tQc0PJHoX3mVF6dPdtNOaAH-gqL0pzS1OhT4BQzZEJlWKNTKBe9AVV6yp3sFbWG1rJPEHOMpHJA/s1600/IMG_7185.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdyqAYHCCK6PndtvGsr-Ws5awDu-3-Tt20rEI8Pf_2tXQy46vF8cSQKxeGgOZ_yT_tQc0PJHoX3mVF6dPdtNOaAH-gqL0pzS1OhT4BQzZEJlWKNTKBe9AVV6yp3sFbWG1rJPEHOMpHJA/s320/IMG_7185.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
<b>Desserts</b><br />
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Soda<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ7kjlhS5VSCPQEcil_a2JPeMIC_0e3Ln_28fyg1N96vo24dMsW486izvz63qz6vgKHEcNIej1RzLalaLWn3ubAXqJ04AYOeMeqrYQoXLYVV5bRF-hf8smd4hyphenhyphenN1pyQNGJ5ZFSxu67Bh8/s1600/IMG_7186.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ7kjlhS5VSCPQEcil_a2JPeMIC_0e3Ln_28fyg1N96vo24dMsW486izvz63qz6vgKHEcNIej1RzLalaLWn3ubAXqJ04AYOeMeqrYQoXLYVV5bRF-hf8smd4hyphenhyphenN1pyQNGJ5ZFSxu67Bh8/s320/IMG_7186.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Sake lees sherbet, persimmon, yuzu (*)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnXmEonQvC9eNmMXlkm7vdkzyA0z68blKD70CV5efGlKjCzOeuxceNqK0Nx5wBuCElueiT2GxSrOMY4-mMNpjoy3JX3jgNGROf_BPGqWS1OrWu3UcGNrkEuV7pcWtM-1k1OjaMdI7f1I/s1600/IMG_7188.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnXmEonQvC9eNmMXlkm7vdkzyA0z68blKD70CV5efGlKjCzOeuxceNqK0Nx5wBuCElueiT2GxSrOMY4-mMNpjoy3JX3jgNGROf_BPGqWS1OrWu3UcGNrkEuV7pcWtM-1k1OjaMdI7f1I/s320/IMG_7188.JPG" /></a><br />
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Fresh and dried yuba (tofu skin), almond, white chocolate (*)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcplY4jDIobhbK6otU_Wtx5iL51_KlqNsHejem2tRmBLJIhTW93ku3b8Re2GL9T6KJqzOHaM2dWykYSJ0ROlpTrHECZTgaYHf4fzW0Iw2YjfIiS7xPsaaXh_7piatvJntqL1xFW5cNsoI/s1600/IMG_7189.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcplY4jDIobhbK6otU_Wtx5iL51_KlqNsHejem2tRmBLJIhTW93ku3b8Re2GL9T6KJqzOHaM2dWykYSJ0ROlpTrHECZTgaYHf4fzW0Iw2YjfIiS7xPsaaXh_7piatvJntqL1xFW5cNsoI/s320/IMG_7189.JPG" /></a><br />
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More Asian inspired snacks (seaweed-like), chocolate and crackers<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBrCSJPfxnOsYR8GoxxhLfbjK_Pb4XVY5Z8EOmFKxZEP67eZuPIQCmPhmkchsjU5a6ttzHhD-n_N_FwyjBzA8sDLBAZTt9vT_D4DNcLqImFspYzoCgdckAQUlUws_-yrM-5Xmw9OZRtkk/s1600/IMG_7191.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBrCSJPfxnOsYR8GoxxhLfbjK_Pb4XVY5Z8EOmFKxZEP67eZuPIQCmPhmkchsjU5a6ttzHhD-n_N_FwyjBzA8sDLBAZTt9vT_D4DNcLqImFspYzoCgdckAQUlUws_-yrM-5Xmw9OZRtkk/s320/IMG_7191.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZK2M0GpuZNYMjQzEXHc386Uw_uJbQn1qhxtFcgCiLxzosB2khIhOWavB3Dxg80C9NbRFV8-u1covBWsIBAdjvvsmydFfQPZubDBfef60J3C4OUZMKEdLqGTXQPHhpEQKGzUHxzdvS10/s1600/IMG_7192.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZK2M0GpuZNYMjQzEXHc386Uw_uJbQn1qhxtFcgCiLxzosB2khIhOWavB3Dxg80C9NbRFV8-u1covBWsIBAdjvvsmydFfQPZubDBfef60J3C4OUZMKEdLqGTXQPHhpEQKGzUHxzdvS10/s320/IMG_7192.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
Cookies<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkwt0fP5CZY_4RN7L_3YetKy9Y_gQAWnx-XC-9KC6FEs-RJEjerBCjYmBI_Yb_VNtf8_DIVyhXJ4A8C3t-knAZKWbyxoCKXCJ5t29Qf_mMuRlHD8qexObYRKHZKnRx_h17L_NdJJaPoyI/s1600/IMG_7193.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkwt0fP5CZY_4RN7L_3YetKy9Y_gQAWnx-XC-9KC6FEs-RJEjerBCjYmBI_Yb_VNtf8_DIVyhXJ4A8C3t-knAZKWbyxoCKXCJ5t29Qf_mMuRlHD8qexObYRKHZKnRx_h17L_NdJJaPoyI/s320/IMG_7193.JPG" /></a><br />
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The opinions of the meal were somewhat split between my wife, our friends, and myself. Personally, I loved the food, and thought that five or six dishes were absolutely phenomenal. I am not a big fan of fusion food in general and Asian fusion in particular, as I prefer authentic cuisines. That aside, Benu's rendition was the best I had ever had. The decor / atmosphere at the restaurant was classy and comfortable. The rest of my group - all foodie Chinese - found some of the flavors perhaps either too familiar (for instance, <a href="http://www.gochifusiontapas.com/">Gochi</a> deliver some of the similar flavors) or not quite as tasty as the original, authentic version (they were not too impressed by the lobster dumpling). But they too remarked on a number of dishes that wowed them. A couple of small nits that I didn't appreciate - our request for more bread was ignored and the request for a (empty) box for the cookies was denied. In the end, as a group, we thought 2 Michelin Stars - for sure! 3? Perhaps.Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-30040212824054603622014-12-30T08:05:00.000-08:002014-12-30T10:14:40.118-08:00Araujo Revisit 2014<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfvB8eCYl6i98wp7xH9xmrO8OBMP-gPTL7I8dQFKbsrJFHa3hLwNZJwUkpDu8bSsA44nFb1MrPAKdS7k_KqlknZ7He_hg8bHDwqbv6Fp_TNUlQ_LiRpQPyxDqwUki-TUR0KtcI8Tf0pkI/s1600/IMG_6971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfvB8eCYl6i98wp7xH9xmrO8OBMP-gPTL7I8dQFKbsrJFHa3hLwNZJwUkpDu8bSsA44nFb1MrPAKdS7k_KqlknZ7He_hg8bHDwqbv6Fp_TNUlQ_LiRpQPyxDqwUki-TUR0KtcI8Tf0pkI/s200/IMG_6971.JPG" /></a></div>Last year Araujo was acquired by the Artemis Group, the owners of Chateau Latour. With that, Araujo joined <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2011/01/three-decades-of-opus-one.html">Opus One</a> and <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2011/03/france-meets-california-at-dominus.html">Dominus</a>, two others among Napa Valley's greatest wineries closely tied to Bordeaux's greatest estates (Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and Chateau Petrus, respectively). More info on the acquisition can be found <a href="http://www.winemag.com/August-2013/Chteau-Latour-and-Artemis-Group-Acquire-Esteemed-Araujo-Estate-Wines/">here</a> and <a href="http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/2013/07/chateau-latour-expands-into-napa-with-the-purchase-of-araujo/">here</a>. Four years since my <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2011/04/araujo.html">last visit</a>, I headed over to Calistoga to talk about the changes, and to taste the wines. The long time director of wine-making Francoise Peschon is no longer there, but her colleague winemaker Nigel Kinsman is still consulting. Largely a new team has been assembled with Frederic Engerer (Latour's president) and Helene Mingot as the Technical Director. Michel Rolland is gone, the Araujos moved on and aren't involved anymore. While the 2011 vintage was made entirely by the old team, the 2012 was the first vintage with the partial influence of the new ownership coming in at the blending phase. Araujo had been a blue chip of Napa for a long time. The Eisele vineyard's successful track record had long resonated the Latour owners' sense for place and quality in wine. As a result, the Artemis Group has not sought to make any dramatic changes - rather continue to tend to and refine the iconic Eisele vineyard. That said, their blending process for the 2012 vintage was quicker and more decisive than the old team's - for the flagship Eisele cab they quickly determined to use only those blocks that had exclusively ever gone into the flagship wine and never into the second wine Altagracia. One of the experiments the winery team is running is the current barrel program, where they are exploring reduced levels of new barrel toast. The production will remain relatively small - less than 2000 cases a year for Eisele cab. A sure sign of the winery's higher profile is prices going up. While member pricing didn't go up significantly, the jump in retail from 2009 to 2011 vintage is over 50% (according to wine-searcher). It is impossible to tell at this point, with not even one full vintage released under the the new ownership's belt, the effect on the wine. What I <i>can </i>tell is that both 2011 and 2012 Eisele cabs were terrific, and some of the best wines I had ever tasted from Napa.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Wines</span></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTO9JKQoqmBcHvO6mYE4gfZ8yRu1uGlK7ETetI6TD-NYeQZ4DlSDbz74N_QZOrVcGAwawE7A1En9bRVQ7akC_umuX2rL4cTHHubrp5IPDDUwI3DlIg3Th8j0v5tWgEl7vpCLIeAJbUvOI/s1600/IMG_6966.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTO9JKQoqmBcHvO6mYE4gfZ8yRu1uGlK7ETetI6TD-NYeQZ4DlSDbz74N_QZOrVcGAwawE7A1En9bRVQ7akC_umuX2rL4cTHHubrp5IPDDUwI3DlIg3Th8j0v5tWgEl7vpCLIeAJbUvOI/s640/IMG_6966.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2011 Araujo Eisele Syrah</b> - not talked about much, but it's been made since 1994. About 50% new French oak. Good structure, cooler year gave it Northern Rhone-like clarity and freshness, without jam or fluff. Graphite and spice. Dark juicy fruit, no doubt lifted by the addition of 3% Viognier (co-fermented with Syrah), and probably the most enjoyable Syrah I have had from California.<br />
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<b>2011 Araujo Altagracia</b> - Very enjoyable. Aromatic. Graphite, mint / menthol, pine-needle. Ripe and structured, tannins are visible but not offensive in any way. Very good. Love the coolness / firmness / freshness of the vintage. 80% new French oak. 1/3 of the price of the Eisele Cab.<br />
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<b>2011 Araujo Eisele Cabernet Sauvignon</b> - Oh I really like this! The leaner structure resulting from the challenging 2011 vintage is on display again. A more polished wine than the Altagracia. Not obviously bigger, deeper or denser, but broader, more perfumed, and classier than the last. Balanced and fine, with piquant, well integrated acidity. Perfectly ripe with chocolate covered cherries and pine needle nuances, some graphite and gravel surrounded by incredibly fine tannins that make this wine delicious to drink now. It certainly has capacity to age. The balance is superb. 100% new French oak. Great success.<br />
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<b>2012 Araujo Eisele Cabernet Sauvignon</b> - bottled but not released yet. Contrary to 2011, the conditions in 2012 were good, so this is a more "typical" Napa cab in the sense of bigger, darker, creamier nose and texture. Plums and apricots, longer finish, thicker velvetier texture and more weight. Very fine tannins that make this drinkable now, although it has a bit of a liqueur sweetness quality that presently makes it a littler harder to pair with food, and I personally would give it a few years, whereas the 2011 is a pleasure now. Both wines are above 14% alcohol, but there is no perceptible heat or heaviness. They are full-bodied wines with medium weight, though as mentioned, obviously the 2012 is heavier. Araujo team considers 2012 a great vintage, and 2011 a challenging one. The profiles of the wines bear that out, but to my palate the 2011 is exactly the profile that might bring me personally back to drinking Napa, while I have no doubt that 2012 will get higher scores.<br />
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<b>2012 Araujo Eisele Sauvignon Blanc</b> - probably one of the top whites in California. A clear and refined expression of Sauvignon Blanc, juicy and saline, a hint of classical citrus, grass, and cat-pee notes, nowhere near the attack of NZ sauv blanc, or the stony minerality of Loire. Medium acidity, very pure and polished, but not over-done. 1/3 steel, 1/3 cement, 1/3 new French oak.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmldVKmAucqv-0LKh2PpPTiSsJ4O6ZWZ4LWg6PXTwU9JATphsEVXqEMOAD2Lp7Huhw-mP1TxiU6Fnp85Lzp64D33FMdb_YeWvX70vebyoUIqLCygkBgSm5I1SaKoan3pWzjUi_4gS1CRE/s1600/IMG_6962.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmldVKmAucqv-0LKh2PpPTiSsJ4O6ZWZ4LWg6PXTwU9JATphsEVXqEMOAD2Lp7Huhw-mP1TxiU6Fnp85Lzp64D33FMdb_YeWvX70vebyoUIqLCygkBgSm5I1SaKoan3pWzjUi_4gS1CRE/s640/IMG_6962.JPG" /></a><br />
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Impressive portfolio at Araujo. At nearly $500 retail for a bottle of the current (2011) release of Eisele Cabernet, it's not easy to swallow. That said, I have to acknowledge these are some of the best wines I have ever had the pleasure of tasting in California. I look forward to a future visit to see where the new team take this.Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-48128533869388081652014-12-23T13:57:00.000-08:002014-12-26T08:17:22.021-08:002011 and 1998 DunnDunn is one of my all-time favorite Napa Valley wineries, and along with Diamond Creek and Ridge, is a reference point for what a mountain Cabernet should taste like. I love the wines. They have stood the test of time. They are incredibly versatile with food, due to acidity, savoriness, and low-alcohol frame. They are intense (without being heavy) with dark fruit, tar and mountain rocks, and echos of pine forest. They are not easy to understand for newbies because they are tannic and rugged, with zesty herbs and root vegetables pronouncing themselves with age. By the time the tannins soften (10-15-20 years+ down the road), the baby plushness and primary fruit sweetness are gone, and you get great intensity and complexity that is anything but "fruity" - perhaps an acquired taste.<br />
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Mike Dunn, Randy Dunn's son who works and makes the wines alongside Randy, has always been an incredibly fun and gracious host. Simple and honest to deal with - no BS, no marketing. The wines are under-priced, in my opinion - less than half of what peers now charge for similar quality. Antonio Galloni recently <a href="http://vinousmedia.com/articles/epic-dunn-cabernet-sauvignon-howell-mountain-1979-1999-feb-2014">wrote</a> this about Dunn 1979-1999 vertical: "Overall, the wines were striking and confirmed Randy Dunn’s place among the top winemakers in Napa Valley." He also gave 98 points to their 2010 Howell Mountain. The Dunns can raise prices if they want to, and I am afraid they eventually will. They have a fairly deep library of old vintages, many still available for sale in magnums. For now, the winery remains a go-to "secret" of wine geeks, and for selfish reasons I hope it stays that way, though probably it will not, especially if I continue to write posts like this!<br />
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This time I was particularly interested in 2011. Randy and Mike hand-signed two magnums of the 2011 Howell Mountain to my son Evan for his birth-year collection. I was just going to swing by to pick them up and be on my way. But of course, Mike wouldn't let me go without sitting down for a taste!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFRrtBFIZOBLaJjviXOf6hUkLfifgjjugATzegY-cIkwXllOd1eMri9HXCkO1wthAU8bet8cKQyyuR1y8gptn21eQL73Pm78AykfT1LD-ZzYt1w1pcO_wE947o2JNjWmkgKyu5QmIoTNg/s1600/IMG_6989.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFRrtBFIZOBLaJjviXOf6hUkLfifgjjugATzegY-cIkwXllOd1eMri9HXCkO1wthAU8bet8cKQyyuR1y8gptn21eQL73Pm78AykfT1LD-ZzYt1w1pcO_wE947o2JNjWmkgKyu5QmIoTNg/s640/IMG_6989.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Wines</span></b><br />
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<b>2011 Dunn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon</b> - opened for 1 day, with most of the wine still in the bottle. This is only the third vintage where all the fruit came from the Howell Mountain - they now produce enough from their youngest Lake vineyard on the "estate" (really more like a farm in the town Angwin, as the Dunns have a very simple, unpretentious life-style). I first tasted it on day 2 and then again on day 5. With 70% remaining in the bottle till day 5 (I pumped out the air and kept it in the fridge), it showed no signs of oxidation. Nose: juicy blueberry, pomegranate, tart ripe black plums, ripe beets. Palate: dark juicy blueberry, pomegranate, plum, hint of bell pepper and pine needle, zesty acidity, softly tannic texture, smoke / tar / tobacco, savoriness, slightly bitter Provencal spice (lavender perhaps), unsweetened dark chocolate, medium-short finish. Doesn't quite have the concentration or length of the Howell Mountain.<br />
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<b>2011 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon</b> - quite a step up! Signature nose: deep, dark, mountainous boulders and pine forest. Palate: I love it! Juicy, lush, but cooler vintage makes this sleek. Really classic Dunn Howell Mountain cab - dusty unsweetened dark (bitter) chocolate, pencil lead / graphite, tar, blackcurrants enveloping herbal / pine grove savoriness, salinity, tobacco and spice cabinet. Hints of bell pepper, root veggies and green peppercorns, but generously mixed with powdered chocolate and tar. Very complex. Lingering aftertaste of tobacco, coffee and very black cherries. The tannins are slightly rustic, like chewing tobacco. This is dark, rugged and full of character, not your typical generic Napa fruit bomb! Drank this over three days. It was still going strong, no signs of oxidation, even when the 2 oz. that had been left at the bottom of a decanter overnight were tasted in the morning. This wine will have a long life! Seems incredibly versatile due to its acidity and savoriness, and I would not hesitate to pair it even with arugula salad, roasted winter veggies, cheeses, let alone meat or poultry. Mike Dunn said that 2011 was not a poor vintage for them like for many in Napa, because the weather on Howell Mountain was fairly typical. In fact, the 13.9% alcohol was relatively high for Dunn (they even had to remove some to bring it down from over 14%), which means the grapes accumulated plenty of sugar. To me, though, the flavor profile is less ripe than what I recall from the recent tastings of their 21st century vintages. Mike mentioned that his preference recently started gravitating toward fresher fruit, away from the riper, less acidic profile of the last decade. In 2011, yields were smaller, 2200 cases as opposed to the normal 3000.<br />
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<b>1998 Dunn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon</b> - we tasted this after it had been opened for 2 days, with most of the wine still in the bottle. Then I pumped the air out, put it in the fridge, with 70% left in the bottle, and re-tasted on day 5, and then finished the bottle on day 7 with lunch. Next to the 2011, this shows obvious secondary development. Nose: alluring autumnal bouquet of dark cherries, cassis and dry plum liqueur, sweet tobacco, menthol, sweet caramelized tomato sprinkled with a splash of sea-salt and balsamic, very beautiful and comforting, like a warm blanket on a cold winter night, watching your favorite movie. Palate: consistent with the nose. Forest floor and autumn leaves (love that!), leather, cassis, sweet grainy porridgy tones (like a '96 Clape I had <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2014/10/grilled-lamb-in-good-company.html">recently</a>), still slightly tannic, savory, hints of iron and blood (like in a good Chateauneuf-du-Pape), coffee, smoke / tar / tobacco. Just a beautiful wine in a great spot! Ready for drinking, and it should have years of life ahead. Impressive for a "second" wine. I had tasted the flagship Howell Mountain version <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2011/01/dunn-last-honest-howell-mountain-cab.html">few years ago</a> during my original visit to Dunn, and it was one of my all-time favorites. The Napa Valley bottling is very compelling as well. A week after opening, it continued blossoming, as I paired it with a roasted goose for Christmas lunch - an amazing match!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhopdF0He3zRdLhNM8FsdVfwVQIlxcvbuXMP10byqXBlIOXF30vk_0OVPndwOvkRX2Nelao1b5toBFVANNR_h0XCxNz6sR4oTA3r0O42razsYi1BaxDNchQ0FtpNfdkI6uB90QDQYn9uXE/s1600/IMG_6981.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhopdF0He3zRdLhNM8FsdVfwVQIlxcvbuXMP10byqXBlIOXF30vk_0OVPndwOvkRX2Nelao1b5toBFVANNR_h0XCxNz6sR4oTA3r0O42razsYi1BaxDNchQ0FtpNfdkI6uB90QDQYn9uXE/s640/IMG_6981.JPG" /></a>Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-71384376372397197452014-12-22T07:50:00.000-08:002014-12-30T08:35:16.401-08:00Opus One Revisit 2014It has been four years since my <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2011/01/three-decades-of-opus-one.html">last visit</a>. At that time we had tasted across three decades of Opus, a truly remarkable experience. This time I was happy to spend a couple of hours again with Opus One's winemaker since 2001, Michael Silacci. The theme was odd-numbered vintages of Opus One from the 21th century (also all odd-numbered vintages since Michael's arrival at the winery).<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Wines</span></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4vIncsMzhv6sjS1KIbr8BS-bs8hbU0EhGCbsUwXgh8xPjKKkvx6-b62f21WDizu0HKgXMxqbTVzB08ivsotW7dsvfSAC-2Z91FY9-UJPzJy5oRXLebJZ9chXe40q4L7pZkPf6WeuN8w/s1600/IMG_6987.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4vIncsMzhv6sjS1KIbr8BS-bs8hbU0EhGCbsUwXgh8xPjKKkvx6-b62f21WDizu0HKgXMxqbTVzB08ivsotW7dsvfSAC-2Z91FY9-UJPzJy5oRXLebJZ9chXe40q4L7pZkPf6WeuN8w/s640/IMG_6987.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>2001 Opus One</b> - nose: bright, zesty, savory, laser-focused dark red berries. Palate: intense, velvety, spice, very polished, weighty, tannins still there, chocolate covered cherries, some savoriness. Michael noted this was his first, i.e. "transitional" vintage, when he was still learning about Opus One. I think he was successful in his first effort.<br />
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<b>2003 Opus One</b> - nose: slightly riper, with whiff of acetone. Palate: slightly stewed fruit, warmer, sweeter, tannins perceptible. Some warm-vintage Barolo-like notes, on a thick, full-bodied frame, a bit awkward and hefty. Michael noted this was not his favorite vintage, but the wine is showing better now than it had in the past. Not a bad wine, but my least favorite of the group.<br />
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<b>2005 Opus One</b> - nose: bright and polished. Intense fruit with herbal nuances (in a good way). More like the 2001, but with more of everything and meatier. Palate: velvet (or "flannel" according to Michael), full-body. Michael explained that at the time of its making this wine had represented his notion of a "classic" Opus One, based on his experiences tasting vintages 1979 - 2000.<br />
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<b>2007 Opus One</b> - intoxicating, liqueur'ish aromatics of sweet fragrant flowers and berries. Palate: riper, sweeter, hotter. Very flashy. As ripe as '03, but better balance and refinement. This was the first time Michael had co-fermented Cabernet Sauvignon with Petit Verdot, rather than blend in the end, and he believes this gave it silkier mouth-feel. Critics proclaimed this a great vintage in Napa for Cabernet Sauvignon, and I can see how this wine is a classic representation of what one thinks of as Napa cab. This is Antonio Galloni's highest scoring vintage in this group (96 pts.)<br />
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<b>2009 Opus One</b> - big nose, almost like a Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Palate: big spice, very sweet, tannic, very big and full-bodied, luxurious oak, darker tones of coffee and tobacco. Michael noted this was the vintage he finally "understood" their Cabernet Franc from the iconic To Kalon vineyard, which resulted in a smoother wine.<br />
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<b>2011 Opus One</b> - the current release. Nose: fresher than '09. Palate: oh, now we are talking! It's that leaner 2011 vintage in Napa whispering to me again. I really like this! Less sweet, really elegant, none of the overt heaviness or sweetness. Lighter body. Silk rather than velvet. More fun to drink. My favorite.<br />
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As last time, clear theme ran across all the wines - herb-inflected luxurious chocolate-covered cherries, incredibly velvety mouth-feel, closer to the red end of the spectrum than black. I happened to visit <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2014/12/araujo-revisit-2014.html">Araujo</a> and <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2014/12/2011-and-1998-dunn.html">Dunn</a> on the same day - both showed darker fruit profiles and leaner structures, and clearly the wines of Opus One are the most full-bodied and opulent among the three. Each vintage of Opus reflected the weather conditions, as well as the winery's style. 2003, 2007, and 2009 came across warmer, fuller, heavier. 2001, 2005 slimmer, fresher, lighter and brighter, and 2011 the sleekest. Not surprisingly, to my palate, the order of preference was 2011, 2001, 2005, 2007, 2009, and 2003. I believe the heavier vintages will "slim down" with time. If I were to choose what to drink now - it would be 2011 (for its vivaciousness) and 2001 (for its balance and age). With time, I think 2005 will outshine the 2001, with perhaps 2007 and 2009 requiring longer to shed baby fat, but eventually destined for beautiful drinking too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Qz5CwjwOrunLacFZGRaLd2KLjoTT-CRFB_cYNTbNFscMfUkOW2fNPqv-srujUW5CeEI_gRaEN8-dp9o2zzzDlBjOAqkXaYB3Lk_g9Kd9wMTPhg6gS6FGxeskkkX_Def61n3azYobsQI/s1600/IMG_6988.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Qz5CwjwOrunLacFZGRaLd2KLjoTT-CRFB_cYNTbNFscMfUkOW2fNPqv-srujUW5CeEI_gRaEN8-dp9o2zzzDlBjOAqkXaYB3Lk_g9Kd9wMTPhg6gS6FGxeskkkX_Def61n3azYobsQI/s640/IMG_6988.JPG" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Michael Silacci, the winemaker (left) and Christopher Barefoot, head of PR (right)</span><br />
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With 20-25 thousand cases of Opus One per year (~25% sold in Japan), it's a medium-sized operation. Opus also make a second wine - Overture - a multi-vintage (i..e non-vintage) blend from grapes that didn't make it into Opus One, not necessarily because of quality but because of proportions - in each vintage there is a surplus of certain varieties that are not used to construct Opus One. Those end up saved and used in current and future releases of Overture. We debated a bit as to why the component vintages of Overture are not identified on the label, similar argument as in Champagne. The response I got was kind of a shrug that consumers seem to trust the brand and don't really care. I am not sure - I know that Antonio Galloni will not rate an unidentifiable wine, because what he rates may be completely different from what you buy. Hence he doesn't review Overture. No matter! - Galloni is quite positive on Opus One flagship, scoring in the low to mid 90's, the 2007 having gotten 96 points. Calibrating to his remarkably versatile palate, I know that Antonio doesn't mind flashier richer styles of wine, while I prefer slimmer ones.<br />
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The full-body and relatively high alcohol made the wines seem weighty and luxurious. Michael noted that in the last couple of years his philosophy has shifted toward freshness and earlier picking. Being a great fan of Burgundy, and of domaine Dujac in particular, he certainly knows a thing or two about that. We didn't taste the 2010 this time, but it is clear that the 2011 was a great success. Talking to him, one gets an unmistakable impression you are in the presence of a passionate wine scientist. The amount of rigor he displays in analyzing vines, plots, and wines, and then training his staff is mind-boggling. In every vintage he conducts numerous experiments in pursuit of higher quality - from co-planting Bordeaux varieties to co-fermenting to yeast selection. These are not generic results that can be learned from elsewhere - these are specific to Opus One vineyards. Building intimate knowledge of <i>their </i>plots is key. He walked me around the lab, explaining in great detail four or five pieces of latest and greatest equipment designed to analyze every aspect of grape, juice, and wine from every single plot, which allows them to measure and track things and make future predictions. But then when time comes to select grapes for Opus One, Michael and his team walk and taste every single row, and it's a vine-by-vine decision, in multiple passes, no matter what the predictive model said. On occasion, he has been surprised by the differences even between nearby vines, when the fruit was ready much earlier than they had expected. The learning continues.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6wDzNqW0eAfbWIbkuwH2w7nviDD3iqoU8hdhIYeqNPtWIVRuRhUwIWgeIMc3HwWRlTd1s4N5pUcMmcRtKmSdE1uB1OTBmbxRwTNFdop3aNawUswuFpXnER0qSwk_PPJsBgKOY03FvOcU/s1600/IMG_6982.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6wDzNqW0eAfbWIbkuwH2w7nviDD3iqoU8hdhIYeqNPtWIVRuRhUwIWgeIMc3HwWRlTd1s4N5pUcMmcRtKmSdE1uB1OTBmbxRwTNFdop3aNawUswuFpXnER0qSwk_PPJsBgKOY03FvOcU/s640/IMG_6982.JPG" /></a>Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-37719597155177789282014-11-16T09:05:00.000-08:002014-11-16T09:06:29.840-08:00First-time visit to Atelier CrennFor Rona's birthday, we ventured to the city to try a new (for us) gastronomic restaurant. We had watched French-native Chef Dominique Crenn battle on Food Network TV's "The Next Iron Chef" (2009) and "Iron Chef America" (2010, "the Yogurt battle" defeating Iron Chef Symon), and wanted to check out her mastery in person. We were able to book the 2-Michel-star restaurant <a href="http://ateliercrenn.com/"><b>Atelier Crenn</b></a> three weeks in advance. At slightly over $200/person for a Chef's Menu, and $45/corkage, this is not inexpensive, but after experiencing the art of food that is Atelier Crenn, I think it's worth it. In addition to being absolutely delicious from both hedonistic and intellectual points of view, this was one of the most artistic gastronomic meals we have ever had, and that list includes a number of domestic and international Michelin-starred restaurants. The attention to visuals and especially the most amazing textures in the endless progression of the French-inspired dishes (each dish bite-size) was truly extraordinary. The place originally opened in January 2011 in the space previously occupied by PlumpJack Cafe on Fillmore St., was remodeled in the beginning of 2014. It is small, tasteful, cozy, and Chef Crenn personally coming out to greet guests was a nice touch.<br />
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The menu was presented as a poem, each line referring to a dish!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ5RECBzYfWuM73sURNHWGV25sAq1t8ix-d4MvkymSRKD8q-DH4FBuDFfx8urKjysiPrE9QPxKf3WJM91yKGGuXSJcvqMaZxT8XaYlJF2SFqeZEnHFI-ze7yLLRMCbrpNJAXfjoF3Q6HY/s1600/IMG_4793.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ5RECBzYfWuM73sURNHWGV25sAq1t8ix-d4MvkymSRKD8q-DH4FBuDFfx8urKjysiPrE9QPxKf3WJM91yKGGuXSJcvqMaZxT8XaYlJF2SFqeZEnHFI-ze7yLLRMCbrpNJAXfjoF3Q6HY/s640/IMG_4793.JPG" /></a><br />
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2006 Paul Pernot Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet grand cru white burgundy was drinking well. Rona loved it for her birthday. On the palate: dominant silky butteriness and lemon custard. Substantial density but not heavy or cloying. Distant nuances of dried apricot, smoke, sea salinity. Consistent profile with the same bottle I drank 2 years ago but this one was more silky and better. Very good and proper grand cru, though no fireworks - in my opinion lacking some excitement or kaleidoscopic breadth of a truly great grand cru. This was a great match to the exquisite food art cuisine, which emphasized lighter and oceany ingredients.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFbVOwlUtBI_EeerC_V9gTUhdbbEmx6T0oNcYW1KXV4AAIwxEEysCH0d5CulEuCRIhteIbWQ13nYK0eh75TGtXKVe6eLiWCZGlP2dN9xNd8FCDDFrTzc8u9VX8LBwBl7P_bAFxA5IDkpc/s1600/IMG_6599.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFbVOwlUtBI_EeerC_V9gTUhdbbEmx6T0oNcYW1KXV4AAIwxEEysCH0d5CulEuCRIhteIbWQ13nYK0eh75TGtXKVe6eLiWCZGlP2dN9xNd8FCDDFrTzc8u9VX8LBwBl7P_bAFxA5IDkpc/s640/IMG_6599.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>Savory dishes </b>(in the order they were served)<br />
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<table><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8Y2X79G49ZyVL6JCNpKzJAa1FoB1wn0isYLKasSqNWs9XUImrXtAHH6EaFqIkZ1uos6yO6xhisldz_28bvYiC78MqpBbPOulfMghpGRLDivT8Wrij1jAoFzSB2mwBxTD5irNm37rzFE/s1600/IMG_6589.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8Y2X79G49ZyVL6JCNpKzJAa1FoB1wn0isYLKasSqNWs9XUImrXtAHH6EaFqIkZ1uos6yO6xhisldz_28bvYiC78MqpBbPOulfMghpGRLDivT8Wrij1jAoFzSB2mwBxTD5irNm37rzFE/s320/IMG_6589.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpyXhhKTa2JihpOn65OYj1cSQOvdFZd3c82Zk65yY-O1QdGdo3MeSmnxQVbUExP58zt4zXS4JezKrnPxepO3uimqc11uheRepZJ2PHuvGk0X7pBgLrWxcGSsgVFY-OA_x7JO-4Tt3gmfM/s1600/IMG_6590.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpyXhhKTa2JihpOn65OYj1cSQOvdFZd3c82Zk65yY-O1QdGdo3MeSmnxQVbUExP58zt4zXS4JezKrnPxepO3uimqc11uheRepZJ2PHuvGk0X7pBgLrWxcGSsgVFY-OA_x7JO-4Tt3gmfM/s320/IMG_6590.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGsDkWA8nbnzWS8Xqaz5beMEBprnC3i_teg6jXe1_7_33AKZYthvSCI-ZdHtCbcF7ragD5NM_IpBvN8PUrrChbQEv2dK9qlaYAe0H6GU85GmpCPZZ55bzxSsmULyNXLYOHJnPKC_iFlOg/s1600/IMG_6593.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGsDkWA8nbnzWS8Xqaz5beMEBprnC3i_teg6jXe1_7_33AKZYthvSCI-ZdHtCbcF7ragD5NM_IpBvN8PUrrChbQEv2dK9qlaYAe0H6GU85GmpCPZZ55bzxSsmULyNXLYOHJnPKC_iFlOg/s320/IMG_6593.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkD0OHVBI2DPJPynevdqABiJb7mo5QRENt3sr1vJZhrDI2qqjGEu8OhCabpih-uHZQhEVN2ZvvzYlfBGHywUbK5uAhYwhsWnvZ-M0NhCcc23SsU0R3uff7PHSz-C3-JKxeC-iCegjnvw4/s1600/IMG_6597.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkD0OHVBI2DPJPynevdqABiJb7mo5QRENt3sr1vJZhrDI2qqjGEu8OhCabpih-uHZQhEVN2ZvvzYlfBGHywUbK5uAhYwhsWnvZ-M0NhCcc23SsU0R3uff7PHSz-C3-JKxeC-iCegjnvw4/s320/IMG_6597.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJ4kykMHZcVhx_Wx2aPZC2qaPGX2_w6_B1B9xaHGVthCF0wsfC0x7W6n4SilKoEXoHbc2hDkcKYVKSY33h08sVND1ob-6N45Y2jjBenamY-j7LEOAC9wwDBRN0o5HV0wiiZUXjsydkF8/s1600/IMG_6595.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJ4kykMHZcVhx_Wx2aPZC2qaPGX2_w6_B1B9xaHGVthCF0wsfC0x7W6n4SilKoEXoHbc2hDkcKYVKSY33h08sVND1ob-6N45Y2jjBenamY-j7LEOAC9wwDBRN0o5HV0wiiZUXjsydkF8/s320/IMG_6595.JPG" width="240" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNb5kDADK0jWbr_rF4mskSO78akPpJJC8fLeqQrMlHiKEOVOjbdoO3CPEX8uKhlhCIPGSB6sh_vLsU1DFb2COWoH35Yxqyv4keGLXD-153GHw3Rh8b0cu_m0lt2_zIaETPXWV_l41IdQo/s1600/IMG_4778.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNb5kDADK0jWbr_rF4mskSO78akPpJJC8fLeqQrMlHiKEOVOjbdoO3CPEX8uKhlhCIPGSB6sh_vLsU1DFb2COWoH35Yxqyv4keGLXD-153GHw3Rh8b0cu_m0lt2_zIaETPXWV_l41IdQo/s320/IMG_4778.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJeommsT_Qkt9S4KXwEmk9f6RO2vX9O2zKuU-I42Mc6SA-E1SO_q1tkrjXb4doaGSmTw7CJFTTUF-v2FRe4NN_xLWVY0iQzMZyZol5cAsWBvFJnec_Skqk-cNSMS5_5gKzBEULc0N8KeY/s1600/IMG_4775.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJeommsT_Qkt9S4KXwEmk9f6RO2vX9O2zKuU-I42Mc6SA-E1SO_q1tkrjXb4doaGSmTw7CJFTTUF-v2FRe4NN_xLWVY0iQzMZyZol5cAsWBvFJnec_Skqk-cNSMS5_5gKzBEULc0N8KeY/s320/IMG_4775.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWOipO3bXaBXYcU5YsXWmqj8fp7ziJ47QAdcqWxY5yCRZH9OYNEYI5T07xAweZObQHGnEpCMfhNN8IfG__qnZMk77lCzEINMJ0ROYLsXCmM7EBpQQxVYL7mLaJVRkDGvioeDkG_EIFkc/s1600/IMG_4776.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWOipO3bXaBXYcU5YsXWmqj8fp7ziJ47QAdcqWxY5yCRZH9OYNEYI5T07xAweZObQHGnEpCMfhNN8IfG__qnZMk77lCzEINMJ0ROYLsXCmM7EBpQQxVYL7mLaJVRkDGvioeDkG_EIFkc/s320/IMG_4776.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggPhS-_-vYzS58IjCPXJiaXiUCYRks_2Dp0XnwnLlItnPP9ngfIElJ_QtYNUkM2iigqwt9LgyRU_x15IFzqcsBZs1RgEjq1oxRZmp5JojJH6U1vjScptqzVbZ2FfYScXTKOUJXreZJtO4/s1600/IMG_4777.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggPhS-_-vYzS58IjCPXJiaXiUCYRks_2Dp0XnwnLlItnPP9ngfIElJ_QtYNUkM2iigqwt9LgyRU_x15IFzqcsBZs1RgEjq1oxRZmp5JojJH6U1vjScptqzVbZ2FfYScXTKOUJXreZJtO4/s320/IMG_4777.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJWJXI3AfPz_wGeMUiMY5MFl_J8K87TTUHDGUJkktjDBoaq0LsNflRb6dXlHjTOW3LbUFktefcn_RHWGwfL2HkI6KA36HaEXkK0L1DSa8eBfLd-5OizdSrNKgiVJq1nIFTZbaLeRz6B4/s1600/IMG_4779.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJWJXI3AfPz_wGeMUiMY5MFl_J8K87TTUHDGUJkktjDBoaq0LsNflRb6dXlHjTOW3LbUFktefcn_RHWGwfL2HkI6KA36HaEXkK0L1DSa8eBfLd-5OizdSrNKgiVJq1nIFTZbaLeRz6B4/s320/IMG_4779.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfOtTAwuIFjfpWuweqi3fM6e8EZMrDQqrPR6OlQU2pwBfIxCkgf1omiDv5QM2ALTA83-dSkRNnX1sbEHozO9_oHFr8NVRgqaWe5D8YRa1yeQ6Q2yTZaElunPCQiVspElzEsn1WKzWFKEo/s1600/IMG_4780.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfOtTAwuIFjfpWuweqi3fM6e8EZMrDQqrPR6OlQU2pwBfIxCkgf1omiDv5QM2ALTA83-dSkRNnX1sbEHozO9_oHFr8NVRgqaWe5D8YRa1yeQ6Q2yTZaElunPCQiVspElzEsn1WKzWFKEo/s320/IMG_4780.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE4dSwU9DbQEEdSrnj_3l4ElaTJ6iFokY83ocDeUJ96AycX8KDtStlVG5hi3sJv6mkc5z0oqDZtIMXCqBMoww_lugneET4V1AtEAFNSsPQJwdgB7pFpkH_fpB7bbXxogcuHJD4Iz_HbGg/s1600/IMG_4781.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE4dSwU9DbQEEdSrnj_3l4ElaTJ6iFokY83ocDeUJ96AycX8KDtStlVG5hi3sJv6mkc5z0oqDZtIMXCqBMoww_lugneET4V1AtEAFNSsPQJwdgB7pFpkH_fpB7bbXxogcuHJD4Iz_HbGg/s320/IMG_4781.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHYRd1-pZ2uavhyphenhyphenT9ISLi1CIXbPtVo6zS6mgAlW6LFJ0UAp8JEtk0z8Y7xokm6sZRA2wDQ9q33m1itGeTH9lJ8aaXImQgYQfNPGQKg7OkdzeYxPJUdPMxzs2fdFuastq4DHBrcA0xjzUc/s1600/IMG_4782.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHYRd1-pZ2uavhyphenhyphenT9ISLi1CIXbPtVo6zS6mgAlW6LFJ0UAp8JEtk0z8Y7xokm6sZRA2wDQ9q33m1itGeTH9lJ8aaXImQgYQfNPGQKg7OkdzeYxPJUdPMxzs2fdFuastq4DHBrcA0xjzUc/s320/IMG_4782.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCC5MK-am3hqN5yCxCPb4xrIPJu4mPfgTucdyI3UTugYCTT617KgrtmX01SzD97ku8n0czzsi-A3z6cObzzyv7c7UQNoZH30VagfUa91eJ8kpEVoO3AFmsT-Vt-5_6PJlh40I4jXZZhzY/s1600/IMG_4783.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCC5MK-am3hqN5yCxCPb4xrIPJu4mPfgTucdyI3UTugYCTT617KgrtmX01SzD97ku8n0czzsi-A3z6cObzzyv7c7UQNoZH30VagfUa91eJ8kpEVoO3AFmsT-Vt-5_6PJlh40I4jXZZhzY/s320/IMG_4783.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCjVHjzDbiDxeyR3jkbcWqPWWIQ7IhZJYBFVA9qsLGxlyMc-l-Dlvu5easWUe0epH4L5pmhH6M3shRhDnukBrMR6y6ADWapSAkSp0EvXjrOGtvOgSl1gwLbJ_aDbmLbUK11brKL_WdH2g/s1600/IMG_4784.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCjVHjzDbiDxeyR3jkbcWqPWWIQ7IhZJYBFVA9qsLGxlyMc-l-Dlvu5easWUe0epH4L5pmhH6M3shRhDnukBrMR6y6ADWapSAkSp0EvXjrOGtvOgSl1gwLbJ_aDbmLbUK11brKL_WdH2g/s320/IMG_4784.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieu_n3NfQWiw52-ogelpK7SMlluJu-uPYHB3Naeuv5g6GnlvoeMdA2tjbyZUyDHNsazSfw3ED__2VotB3HMQDt74Rovlzg15EViUqaPFYoQiEZUbW2dxu0_toPoP2IckXrWnOX3Eh17RA/s1600/IMG_4785.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieu_n3NfQWiw52-ogelpK7SMlluJu-uPYHB3Naeuv5g6GnlvoeMdA2tjbyZUyDHNsazSfw3ED__2VotB3HMQDt74Rovlzg15EViUqaPFYoQiEZUbW2dxu0_toPoP2IckXrWnOX3Eh17RA/s320/IMG_4785.JPG" width="240" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSXmRAdNbngUlSNOzPLGCAP7dF_42xnhY-vpkmAdGi5gPvSxdb1FJkHtXqVMSMcuvYdpBr6IYKvKtZc97wc8GMstvuoK4BxiRVut-dEU7qTe_vzUKS9BFiO7GzA3fyhoqCp2MxDbipkGQ/s1600/IMG_4786.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSXmRAdNbngUlSNOzPLGCAP7dF_42xnhY-vpkmAdGi5gPvSxdb1FJkHtXqVMSMcuvYdpBr6IYKvKtZc97wc8GMstvuoK4BxiRVut-dEU7qTe_vzUKS9BFiO7GzA3fyhoqCp2MxDbipkGQ/s320/IMG_4786.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitm7Sc5LfdbQZhh9m9JQKF_V5ZAUvdnywHcLZamgbmepRdrRoJIi8HF3JNPKIwTdeombl_IqMxWWhnDZpAinKlbc2BoTzEB2tXaVcUbVDYk6o-I8JpWYTV9HAY3ESEzWpOjcA7Zi5dJC0/s1600/IMG_4787.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitm7Sc5LfdbQZhh9m9JQKF_V5ZAUvdnywHcLZamgbmepRdrRoJIi8HF3JNPKIwTdeombl_IqMxWWhnDZpAinKlbc2BoTzEB2tXaVcUbVDYk6o-I8JpWYTV9HAY3ESEzWpOjcA7Zi5dJC0/s320/IMG_4787.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOsPvegKaqRAaDsPnHh7W8aFWFaOgP1wNFxvGk7V3mWkblHapyobx60py0m3iRW5FQrPdAi2hynGcIw7Z26WbIqMs82mJfu3Zrx7mAskxWhxS8Hrk1EUw524P2LiN3XXlXJo-Xt0dqZN0/s1600/IMG_4788.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOsPvegKaqRAaDsPnHh7W8aFWFaOgP1wNFxvGk7V3mWkblHapyobx60py0m3iRW5FQrPdAi2hynGcIw7Z26WbIqMs82mJfu3Zrx7mAskxWhxS8Hrk1EUw524P2LiN3XXlXJo-Xt0dqZN0/s320/IMG_4788.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUtbjUdugnzlNsfnfNr_mu_CIxyKlGxjg2-YULIxWxYanV26a6Jv0M-0_ID2w2c9Z8YepwrGtnD2K2AHhvfVe8fUz0zUjoGAuJc6CSBMCde57Mbdmrq5cqp14cSyji_Rbs_KxYSx3RQag/s1600/IMG_4791.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUtbjUdugnzlNsfnfNr_mu_CIxyKlGxjg2-YULIxWxYanV26a6Jv0M-0_ID2w2c9Z8YepwrGtnD2K2AHhvfVe8fUz0zUjoGAuJc6CSBMCde57Mbdmrq5cqp14cSyji_Rbs_KxYSx3RQag/s320/IMG_4791.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_GF5-fL9JyYHPf_RD-OAF4UUj1gt31BwspFve6VBlxKrtYNZfYqXBlM3ilir99XCbcG2EP_YPkgqVvysIapsYuMhzREcfMu_GkksnseJLmmZE7X6YnzWXPNJCAaLC6CA_cJvprl13kmI/s1600/IMG_4792.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_GF5-fL9JyYHPf_RD-OAF4UUj1gt31BwspFve6VBlxKrtYNZfYqXBlM3ilir99XCbcG2EP_YPkgqVvysIapsYuMhzREcfMu_GkksnseJLmmZE7X6YnzWXPNJCAaLC6CA_cJvprl13kmI/s320/IMG_4792.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhteQD8zpRmitZ9RRfHwDsnuwcNeYJRlV68pgz4Il2jmGq2HgJm_qyHuez0SkAw0oUcOpe90BNOxtWHMKvGWZdWakwosbxxVJ5ePvN6UueFMX5b1nuUbiwa9LlWz6yIAzxE-b-nyodUukE/s1600/IMG_4795.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhteQD8zpRmitZ9RRfHwDsnuwcNeYJRlV68pgz4Il2jmGq2HgJm_qyHuez0SkAw0oUcOpe90BNOxtWHMKvGWZdWakwosbxxVJ5ePvN6UueFMX5b1nuUbiwa9LlWz6yIAzxE-b-nyodUukE/s320/IMG_4795.JPG" /></a></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<b>Sweet dishes</b><br />
<br />
<table><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjqrQQE5LsKunX7hwU-BNVKzp071ogX9zZWxm7RMHCGL3qmFIKXiZnZX3g9lRf6ZW16ABWYAg5rBrfT1s0xLaaDb-KP_JhPIwPMB2a8IAlHXkkRnHhUm4n5ufoFG7LPKDEk3ugEnsXP3Q/s1600/IMG_4794.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjqrQQE5LsKunX7hwU-BNVKzp071ogX9zZWxm7RMHCGL3qmFIKXiZnZX3g9lRf6ZW16ABWYAg5rBrfT1s0xLaaDb-KP_JhPIwPMB2a8IAlHXkkRnHhUm4n5ufoFG7LPKDEk3ugEnsXP3Q/s320/IMG_4794.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlq_f7ky1oR-_RJw3CLjj9DzXaFSwdrT3Oi5uS75tUXn8Cx_qPo5oDbPrTJzAJhlYq9UdyL2UN6J5bCoY2EiOApNxiWu-t8WEyfzzY3LreArClxGvAxtELQVJG6PBa1hd5uQ9VBuAq3M8/s1600/IMG_4797.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlq_f7ky1oR-_RJw3CLjj9DzXaFSwdrT3Oi5uS75tUXn8Cx_qPo5oDbPrTJzAJhlYq9UdyL2UN6J5bCoY2EiOApNxiWu-t8WEyfzzY3LreArClxGvAxtELQVJG6PBa1hd5uQ9VBuAq3M8/s320/IMG_4797.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFkPcOYZpWNh5_dUGhjWtazNHFGXBKObbMx92LuK_6TFhOQ_8yiN5tpGKKNow7CL-Y65OqDcnW_dxrFcT2ULnanHMMLQC6NS1s0Rxqf0OmJi21FK8etr5Pgsccgn5sCTrYCvbP0VSrJ88/s1600/IMG_4800.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFkPcOYZpWNh5_dUGhjWtazNHFGXBKObbMx92LuK_6TFhOQ_8yiN5tpGKKNow7CL-Y65OqDcnW_dxrFcT2ULnanHMMLQC6NS1s0Rxqf0OmJi21FK8etr5Pgsccgn5sCTrYCvbP0VSrJ88/s320/IMG_4800.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTwYgjvnAJoOip1MNWbzRoVK6tJnb9QBpyVcPQKPSNL1HR0C3sx9PLPeJmcCHdpNkv_D8hpwDiU8eNBAJ8dGIsFmjkvmY8xpxeZnIqINjtuK0fmDZBV3p1JURrRyWTCV9939H_YTlLK5A/s1600/IMG_4801.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTwYgjvnAJoOip1MNWbzRoVK6tJnb9QBpyVcPQKPSNL1HR0C3sx9PLPeJmcCHdpNkv_D8hpwDiU8eNBAJ8dGIsFmjkvmY8xpxeZnIqINjtuK0fmDZBV3p1JURrRyWTCV9939H_YTlLK5A/s320/IMG_4801.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgR4bvfBk7qqTAfwYH8fNa_g2bHDs9ACPXJWOE1wxgO9elIUpfWcbbvfYLngQ_wD-wO06zLS-qC53nx0POQ4eRmncFk-nif-V-0BVBi0SPS2P580SvnPsrLckd70TZc-R_YgFg3I8juxQ/s1600/IMG_4802.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgR4bvfBk7qqTAfwYH8fNa_g2bHDs9ACPXJWOE1wxgO9elIUpfWcbbvfYLngQ_wD-wO06zLS-qC53nx0POQ4eRmncFk-nif-V-0BVBi0SPS2P580SvnPsrLckd70TZc-R_YgFg3I8juxQ/s320/IMG_4802.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_OObyoQ1jYZjXtFsodqpdnL-JFjtUvThH_3ajICJkBMqbvW6X6dF7qDKzZl7ehOvvysqYVawMQBre8j4S1FeP1d5J232JE7l0oomr578OQq5561U9u0HIDX-grTHUiSEKiICO8qfI66w/s1600/IMG_4807.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_OObyoQ1jYZjXtFsodqpdnL-JFjtUvThH_3ajICJkBMqbvW6X6dF7qDKzZl7ehOvvysqYVawMQBre8j4S1FeP1d5J232JE7l0oomr578OQq5561U9u0HIDX-grTHUiSEKiICO8qfI66w/s320/IMG_4807.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWC3T_Vlqa5WfJ3pBXrG9ZiHFDF0Mw8GL-nGF374OJhCLMZ7BFoLxCIsZsIn6HGNkz1942WSxotUZB5g3lhc29y4ZQ525uRnFj0Ijvaif5VQXHoumwdOOep5C1w7G_pOUZJpE1RPiHfas/s1600/IMG_4808.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWC3T_Vlqa5WfJ3pBXrG9ZiHFDF0Mw8GL-nGF374OJhCLMZ7BFoLxCIsZsIn6HGNkz1942WSxotUZB5g3lhc29y4ZQ525uRnFj0Ijvaif5VQXHoumwdOOep5C1w7G_pOUZJpE1RPiHfas/s320/IMG_4808.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh45fRg2WBffrd0A_zrt_izcLtIpEr9dv8DYp_eDPXXdK2VNPzDCIUvAJy0TY8ablG0DSw-EB7LLSuwcKSQ5LyJhR3VUAbj-CzJEGxEsKnIAWi_KDUQNoj4_02UrZpo7a-sBTAujdz6ezA/s1600/IMG_4809.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh45fRg2WBffrd0A_zrt_izcLtIpEr9dv8DYp_eDPXXdK2VNPzDCIUvAJy0TY8ablG0DSw-EB7LLSuwcKSQ5LyJhR3VUAbj-CzJEGxEsKnIAWi_KDUQNoj4_02UrZpo7a-sBTAujdz6ezA/s320/IMG_4809.JPG" /></a></td><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd2YM7h6iU16nT5sD9lCTRfUaCw5AwFeu7KNIfC1BZfbwItaClCXpF3wwLjKG75l3fyW14pIhFQptjxppujzCdXoTaUZhlm_fnjKLCkMyovsfymhRPHnUCoy1kNX-M98qX7WRRSgThMok/s1600/IMG_4811.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd2YM7h6iU16nT5sD9lCTRfUaCw5AwFeu7KNIfC1BZfbwItaClCXpF3wwLjKG75l3fyW14pIhFQptjxppujzCdXoTaUZhlm_fnjKLCkMyovsfymhRPHnUCoy1kNX-M98qX7WRRSgThMok/s320/IMG_4811.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzQTL_DF40McfyDuNxujN0lfEumDBe8rzWA4Tr29AJfV5KUlEP2SF_Nrm1FnezULVukL-SiEY_PVcJcOSiTSfCANMF0kAec8GCSpp5uYwEJeuRXS2zt_iPPUXCcp2qjQDdbDO4taMyfus/s1600/IMG_4810.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzQTL_DF40McfyDuNxujN0lfEumDBe8rzWA4Tr29AJfV5KUlEP2SF_Nrm1FnezULVukL-SiEY_PVcJcOSiTSfCANMF0kAec8GCSpp5uYwEJeuRXS2zt_iPPUXCcp2qjQDdbDO4taMyfus/s320/IMG_4810.JPG" /></a></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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Iron Chef slayer Chef Dominique Crenn and yours truly, Iron Chevsky.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6OsIfu599otv2s_plUNhPHD-FffiADNBMGI1R4zFyItaefNn90qK4xfbM_9LckDaHmknVRnpMYnufTUAEs6On_cDQEYp5OC-bV_XJFeX3RWS8HGvfa8yHONruzK35ndZLaLuPIpJ2FVk/s1600/IMG_4796.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6OsIfu599otv2s_plUNhPHD-FffiADNBMGI1R4zFyItaefNn90qK4xfbM_9LckDaHmknVRnpMYnufTUAEs6On_cDQEYp5OC-bV_XJFeX3RWS8HGvfa8yHONruzK35ndZLaLuPIpJ2FVk/s640/IMG_4796.JPG" /></a>Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-9476093986629071922014-11-11T20:56:00.000-08:002014-11-11T22:29:00.198-08:00Highlights of the 2014 Wine & Spirits Top 100 Wineries Tasting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5TeyxZesEqkTor56aqahTvgiWTm_fLXFyijp_5ppNEE1jeXwq9o2-pu7fX6QwAHb1w3zoLnULkf2-lrAbo2DvCaWWBBT5J5USX3Azegfd4AYznXbu3YhHTi4hRGnPPvgxHIjwXJJeLsU/s1600/IMG_6376.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5TeyxZesEqkTor56aqahTvgiWTm_fLXFyijp_5ppNEE1jeXwq9o2-pu7fX6QwAHb1w3zoLnULkf2-lrAbo2DvCaWWBBT5J5USX3Azegfd4AYznXbu3YhHTi4hRGnPPvgxHIjwXJJeLsU/s320/IMG_6376.JPG" height="153" width="200" /></a></div>
Wine & Spirits Top 100 Wineries tasting is a great annual event in San Francisco each October that I make a point not to miss. Great venue (Metreon), sharp looking people, delectable food, and seriously good wines. Below are the highlights of the this year's 11th annual event. (The 2013 was documented <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2013/10/highlights-of-wine-spirits-top-100.html">here</a>, 2012 <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2012/12/highlights-of-wine-spirits-top-100.html">here</a>, 2011 <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2011/11/wine-spirits-top-100-wineries-of-2012.html">here</a>, 2010 <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2010/10/wine-spirits-magazines-top-100-wineries.html">here</a>, and 2009 <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2009/10/tasting-wine-spirits-magazine-top-100.html">here</a>).<br />
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<b>Diamond Creek</b>, with dear Boots Brounstein. As usual, Diamond Creek showed well - dark, cool, mountain fruit with good structure, one of my favorite Napa Valley wineries, recently <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2014/09/2011-joseph-phelps-insignia-and-diamond.html">highlighted on this blog</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD7cEr4TkYgKHYwa3u33enkq-HlqqMuIrL2GVHyqRVMAjstsByPLrGbUFpW1Sg0hpJz81nLemHBIwfzbxdoBgJF2oTlupPKTbX4g6isMJgc_bCiHs7S-TDiWRkcos7lidZoFhyphenhyphenWoZFH-o/s1600/IMG_6430.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD7cEr4TkYgKHYwa3u33enkq-HlqqMuIrL2GVHyqRVMAjstsByPLrGbUFpW1Sg0hpJz81nLemHBIwfzbxdoBgJF2oTlupPKTbX4g6isMJgc_bCiHs7S-TDiWRkcos7lidZoFhyphenhyphenWoZFH-o/s640/IMG_6430.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDq39RJC74GVYjAu8ssLIOWf6zfEPWfLz6_9D61nJs2HJDYO9b8nRsuPfydhn2dRquah7Agc7CwGbYu79pxsuw-HKQWPYksFSx26MmN5vQq43S3i-QHrnuj1m_yrikhF3xn9zYtx6H8g4/s1600/IMG_6429.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDq39RJC74GVYjAu8ssLIOWf6zfEPWfLz6_9D61nJs2HJDYO9b8nRsuPfydhn2dRquah7Agc7CwGbYu79pxsuw-HKQWPYksFSx26MmN5vQq43S3i-QHrnuj1m_yrikhF3xn9zYtx6H8g4/s640/IMG_6429.JPG" /></a><br />
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<b>Dominus</b>, with Tod Mostero, who <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2011/03/france-meets-california-at-dominus.html">hosted me several years ago</a> at the estate. This was the second time I tasted the 2011 Dominus, and my opinion improved. The wine has some grippy tannins and herbs, slightly leaner than usual, thanks to the 2011 vintage. I like how the slight austerity and a leaner body give it a Euro-inclined balance. I believe it will age well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzaT726yXpPPNmUAWZ5FXZV23dTN61T3RX7wua0vvWjbcCprg7KdXf_QPw8G7UkFd63RPOx5-b-pxrVsxayMOY2UBRGOOlWKsaInU9foE2PPsh5tZg6jH7qAbnui9yYszo6x7IjC5x2eo/s1600/IMG_6436.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzaT726yXpPPNmUAWZ5FXZV23dTN61T3RX7wua0vvWjbcCprg7KdXf_QPw8G7UkFd63RPOx5-b-pxrVsxayMOY2UBRGOOlWKsaInU9foE2PPsh5tZg6jH7qAbnui9yYszo6x7IjC5x2eo/s640/IMG_6436.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSehEFBMsXwMbwrUSuLbWWYEc0eJjbP56Kg-4wTHVJn1_p0HCNZFGmepp4rieNFwucNMy_WDbWh0jvM4Nxz0U_xlCgpk4bsEAdVZY0z6f2HBxKWCZhTfed0n2kYQwPPTa2sZh8qwDtnyk/s1600/IMG_6438.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSehEFBMsXwMbwrUSuLbWWYEc0eJjbP56Kg-4wTHVJn1_p0HCNZFGmepp4rieNFwucNMy_WDbWh0jvM4Nxz0U_xlCgpk4bsEAdVZY0z6f2HBxKWCZhTfed0n2kYQwPPTa2sZh8qwDtnyk/s640/IMG_6438.JPG" /></a><br />
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I ran into Burgundy's vunderkind of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair in Vosne Romanee, <b>Loius Michel Liger-Belair</b>, in an elevator. He is making the most exciting reds in Burgundy right now, including the iconic La Romanee grand cru in Vosne Romanee. Louis-Michel is consulting with one of the Oregon wineries at the event - Chapter 24 Vineyards.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8phgU5InmDArKxhyVRXmwmDjvD8g9T56lHvSByGj_HEK02c_AQFMy-AbQjJY9rCrg0XQrRsmizL30hYMR0aNwTAUsqFz1i_agmHyB0ETJneVAj9Zs8-8Pa8u91ODR58KZMiBloCumxN8/s1600/IMG_6464.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8phgU5InmDArKxhyVRXmwmDjvD8g9T56lHvSByGj_HEK02c_AQFMy-AbQjJY9rCrg0XQrRsmizL30hYMR0aNwTAUsqFz1i_agmHyB0ETJneVAj9Zs8-8Pa8u91ODR58KZMiBloCumxN8/s640/IMG_6464.JPG" /></a><br />
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More memorable sights:<br />
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<tr><td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT354P2RsPuEBcSbtSErzOirlY8JgddKafC7oNBSzFFRsjYUpvbGLhUlgQOSqFm13y5qMDqPIF11xHqeiW8ozNXNtlIzepOpNWgj0xXRBMei0sBAPMj7_Sz0UbxNKgLrl4gEpS1ep0BDs/s1600/IMG_6380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT354P2RsPuEBcSbtSErzOirlY8JgddKafC7oNBSzFFRsjYUpvbGLhUlgQOSqFm13y5qMDqPIF11xHqeiW8ozNXNtlIzepOpNWgj0xXRBMei0sBAPMj7_Sz0UbxNKgLrl4gEpS1ep0BDs/s320/IMG_6380.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bright earthy fruits in 2011. Chambertin had good stuffing.<br />
Really enjoy the purity of Potel's "Roche de Bellene" wines.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiSfGjlf3c3FaCxs-_Bj3rHwLo6ALMRi1lyS3MHMetw20UJfj_sFCmNypV4ykHHwL1MTKQ33Hr4q0-8jwEPe-DLcforaB4rq37msRCDvIUkC3hB9_nM39cbfptnhi0vwDUjUJyS-6sKMM/s1600/IMG_6382.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiSfGjlf3c3FaCxs-_Bj3rHwLo6ALMRi1lyS3MHMetw20UJfj_sFCmNypV4ykHHwL1MTKQ33Hr4q0-8jwEPe-DLcforaB4rq37msRCDvIUkC3hB9_nM39cbfptnhi0vwDUjUJyS-6sKMM/s320/IMG_6382.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new Jura-based brand from the famous Guillaume d'Angerville of Volnay, first vintage.<br />
I really liked these, both red and white, for their deep flavors and elegant medium bodies. Not quite as refined as Angerville's burgundies, but characterful, satisfying, food friendly, and well worth drinking IMO off-the-beaten-path.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoby2SP6SaYXkrN-e1bGoaRLliq_IF_9uXvs8ItvNGZ3yAAMcK9K4d_DTHjkxwcglE50Yr-u5PNQtq0Vp0v7C9skLb2wPBJZiQh3iKotJ_C1nzIeKYso5exOopZxasGw_0kdmjlcQMlgg/s1600/IMG_6408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoby2SP6SaYXkrN-e1bGoaRLliq_IF_9uXvs8ItvNGZ3yAAMcK9K4d_DTHjkxwcglE50Yr-u5PNQtq0Vp0v7C9skLb2wPBJZiQh3iKotJ_C1nzIeKYso5exOopZxasGw_0kdmjlcQMlgg/s320/IMG_6408.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Too "new world" for me. I much prefer Drouhin's burgundies.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQhc6JobjX6-RTw7v3Zeg14OWvUvwu9PQix8lap5N16-Aa3cQBiKjXOTuZeXlFKOihPqNBkVBG5pq9kAO_Y8MUUcl0oZ5aZ9QaCNljXYjAR-dBeACK3QVK9D8q7FO2tUC9IbXM7e8JygM/s320/IMG_6388.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoy Moric blaufrankisch every year.<br />
Wonderful smoky Austrian reds.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlbbpfbnXQs33Tew8UQ_HX134IdqHSdnFexBbgBdXfFaiVuiOO8bG8LhSf9X_K7LRRn8HVpRHLFRynuOxNUrnayKYyuPpG9EP-VBI2hvV_9XR_bRsTaTQ_pSAq2tl_KkTT_mfBkEOeROc/s1600/IMG_6381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlbbpfbnXQs33Tew8UQ_HX134IdqHSdnFexBbgBdXfFaiVuiOO8bG8LhSf9X_K7LRRn8HVpRHLFRynuOxNUrnayKYyuPpG9EP-VBI2hvV_9XR_bRsTaTQ_pSAq2tl_KkTT_mfBkEOeROc/s320/IMG_6381.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 2010 "Ursules" rocks! Excellent QPR.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMvk1qxFK3NF1zLmWVFaEGUAA6uRAc8PdpPyzYgNCcCzAmhHWC0zv8iEWily7ICRGWuEEFt7xnCzo-2kCKHUYAw0MPJZsugxGGLfoFRQ3-lNdTlEq_oY_tb43tAb3AGBBQQzgqS6RvamM/s1600/IMG_6415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMvk1qxFK3NF1zLmWVFaEGUAA6uRAc8PdpPyzYgNCcCzAmhHWC0zv8iEWily7ICRGWuEEFt7xnCzo-2kCKHUYAw0MPJZsugxGGLfoFRQ3-lNdTlEq_oY_tb43tAb3AGBBQQzgqS6RvamM/s320/IMG_6415.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The iconic Penfolds Grange. Very refined. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhggrfuaPm2nS7AuiWJkMuXnBudPUKjXrpRjcG1VA-p1Bz4Id8L_uOyeMupB-45gyIQM5CoIY-2SPitM6gkL4WHktFczAD95T13RVYXv11cvjalWper0EY80NF4Xt2zQdmdQMEmBq_zmGY/s1600/IMG_6421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhggrfuaPm2nS7AuiWJkMuXnBudPUKjXrpRjcG1VA-p1Bz4Id8L_uOyeMupB-45gyIQM5CoIY-2SPitM6gkL4WHktFczAD95T13RVYXv11cvjalWper0EY80NF4Xt2zQdmdQMEmBq_zmGY/s320/IMG_6421.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beaucastel nailed it in 2011, both red and white.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-P7rul5e52NezUeKUVbGzbfh14Jr2FiYJSHRT4eTJUmxkaz9zK1L1tdLgMuEb1zb9VB_JUTc4q00Blu7JZQg82lJXwraTrnXP-nKbrh72s4Upe8POD_ttsF9bnFnXvzZbsxxZAJY0P1w/s1600/IMG_6433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-P7rul5e52NezUeKUVbGzbfh14Jr2FiYJSHRT4eTJUmxkaz9zK1L1tdLgMuEb1zb9VB_JUTc4q00Blu7JZQg82lJXwraTrnXP-nKbrh72s4Upe8POD_ttsF9bnFnXvzZbsxxZAJY0P1w/s320/IMG_6433.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHeL_IlJ0cnSPEwHlMkxutIJWwarmDn-elafdkMXdXQn8fhrHbVY0sQG1wqghL-ddP0g949aCuhPR2Yx1PF0Hd1FngvO4eQgSENGRFCHc7hfeFTykt-2NwjucJUaD_6iFj37Uk_W_LJUQ/s1600/IMG_6373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHeL_IlJ0cnSPEwHlMkxutIJWwarmDn-elafdkMXdXQn8fhrHbVY0sQG1wqghL-ddP0g949aCuhPR2Yx1PF0Hd1FngvO4eQgSENGRFCHc7hfeFTykt-2NwjucJUaD_6iFj37Uk_W_LJUQ/s320/IMG_6373.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hard to choose between these two.<br />
For me, the 2000 perhaps was tastier. But both are great!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7BiuUZXWVPXBHMx3jlP8dogcLYAOacQYZLriUX08OJdf8vqFFI6AaeLUBRvNVMQguv43moCZ1r_JpJHPYFZHsZl5Q2b4zpaZUqUd2A9KVLkruwxQnIxwN5BcKnld2zRiHfavvWXpRzes/s1600/IMG_6368.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7BiuUZXWVPXBHMx3jlP8dogcLYAOacQYZLriUX08OJdf8vqFFI6AaeLUBRvNVMQguv43moCZ1r_JpJHPYFZHsZl5Q2b4zpaZUqUd2A9KVLkruwxQnIxwN5BcKnld2zRiHfavvWXpRzes/s640/IMG_6368.JPG" /></a><br />
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Here are the wines and dishes to salivate over:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgx_42bXYv2fzEG5Pzs_MGqRzXBw3fXRBvnbs7BzdRIVs_wD-ee5XJE94UMp4u4rRQgz9RYWJlTIe1bPVH0dxcwPpVUkt4QFdgd6Rnc2DSHCcSrDowrMBxRHKVY3_DL0v35-pzhoQ3nG4/s1600/IMG_6346.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgx_42bXYv2fzEG5Pzs_MGqRzXBw3fXRBvnbs7BzdRIVs_wD-ee5XJE94UMp4u4rRQgz9RYWJlTIe1bPVH0dxcwPpVUkt4QFdgd6Rnc2DSHCcSrDowrMBxRHKVY3_DL0v35-pzhoQ3nG4/s640/IMG_6346.JPG" /></a><br />
Champagne starter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWc5JV2nqrYzmQ0lwSUEhx5AVGC71_ADDxK4yEKWPXKghfp8uHH5hl8K9PGFO7M_JbcsQE-ArO7R6TPGVgfarAvfSQ76VWYayqTy4CdW_hxMq61fM_f39nLXseKWg1hQT9Qu76E1X8QJc/s1600/IMG_6344.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWc5JV2nqrYzmQ0lwSUEhx5AVGC71_ADDxK4yEKWPXKghfp8uHH5hl8K9PGFO7M_JbcsQE-ArO7R6TPGVgfarAvfSQ76VWYayqTy4CdW_hxMq61fM_f39nLXseKWg1hQT9Qu76E1X8QJc/s640/IMG_6344.JPG" /></a><br />
Fascinating wine - a 1987 Corton-Charlemange white burgundy from Mommessin, the producer of the famous Clos de Tart grand cru - who knew he had a white grand cru! Silky texture, copper tones (color and palate), unfortunately over the hill, with oxidized notes. Still a rare treat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOQNCFOxUqM5Pn_Se8pdT00w7PhbuEVQIuRhyphenhyphen132wPRBcql5Cess-d2dz-2dVZfTbOz7KeblImUqvBxbA6hyDcBYqQB0dWpMhrkImZe36bJPulRMGoj__FjMekqm-XzMep29P4o_rNCnI/s1600/IMG_6350.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOQNCFOxUqM5Pn_Se8pdT00w7PhbuEVQIuRhyphenhyphen132wPRBcql5Cess-d2dz-2dVZfTbOz7KeblImUqvBxbA6hyDcBYqQB0dWpMhrkImZe36bJPulRMGoj__FjMekqm-XzMep29P4o_rNCnI/s640/IMG_6350.JPG" /></a><br />
The '97 Brunello Poggio Alle Mura from Castello Banfi was in good shape. On its own, it would have been attention grabber. Nicely mature, it seemed it should continue to drink well for at least a few more years.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-8D8h6T_UQumI6F918tcX8am1EpgE6f1HBol1fvfBFdOLU1VCYgF5U4gs1kGkgwP3F-RtfQPTX2tHFvNsuiwBuhILwbiwXZ7NAuTxP8DznLYgyFZMCk6k0u3I1RD-6FGR3g6xlCPS0Gg/s1600/IMG_6353.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-8D8h6T_UQumI6F918tcX8am1EpgE6f1HBol1fvfBFdOLU1VCYgF5U4gs1kGkgwP3F-RtfQPTX2tHFvNsuiwBuhILwbiwXZ7NAuTxP8DznLYgyFZMCk6k0u3I1RD-6FGR3g6xlCPS0Gg/s640/IMG_6353.JPG" /></a><br />
Oh the mouthwatering, perfectly medium-rare, herb-crusted lamb - probably the best, tender-most grilled lamb I had ever had - what a treat! The Ottolenghi rack of lamb recipe can be found <a href="http://www.staceysnacksonline.com/2014/01/herb-marinated-lamb-chops.html">here</a>. The exquisite quality fresh Napa lamb came from Draeger's Market in Menlo Park.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT8v5L4um1viUbgdAziRjYBYPj6gCmwSr3t1-Qrba-yIly4M7ijxC8FaSyYh77yO7zfNpQOyUMyCFj6SDzNcoa5U7WRhadFG6ICv67i78HDtjm9xmng_rmzsx8TWA-w59EzeBr694OSw4/s1600/IMG_6351.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT8v5L4um1viUbgdAziRjYBYPj6gCmwSr3t1-Qrba-yIly4M7ijxC8FaSyYh77yO7zfNpQOyUMyCFj6SDzNcoa5U7WRhadFG6ICv67i78HDtjm9xmng_rmzsx8TWA-w59EzeBr694OSw4/s640/IMG_6351.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjr3BGm_caW5PEsLS9wMAIo1JgP5pPNQIutBiMMsxOxY0pjYb6gFCu3ubzksXtgJcbqjxUebOBWDEmH6p4wdLZ4oHpaENdy0WGZV2X1VlwtLmYqX-gBCyGJvkojym0XZj541DLnRII1d8/s1600/IMG_6352.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjr3BGm_caW5PEsLS9wMAIo1JgP5pPNQIutBiMMsxOxY0pjYb6gFCu3ubzksXtgJcbqjxUebOBWDEmH6p4wdLZ4oHpaENdy0WGZV2X1VlwtLmYqX-gBCyGJvkojym0XZj541DLnRII1d8/s640/IMG_6352.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a><br />
Sides to go with the lamb. The ham and gruyere cheese seeded brioche from Manresa Bread Project was a special treat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9UDtlcjTD2N8ipVzYbuBQdwd-uh24-dqz-T7RZitCxAIqg1mrEf-8hTq8hcV0d0h0JeyQaoelKDLUnN8G-2_pLDq_z3BSzp59Al10VGQDZPFsLb2br4gjoANeoD3EpGnqTaLJxgS6IM/s1600/IMG_6345.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9UDtlcjTD2N8ipVzYbuBQdwd-uh24-dqz-T7RZitCxAIqg1mrEf-8hTq8hcV0d0h0JeyQaoelKDLUnN8G-2_pLDq_z3BSzp59Al10VGQDZPFsLb2br4gjoANeoD3EpGnqTaLJxgS6IM/s640/IMG_6345.JPG" /></a><br />
This 1996 Cornas from Clape was the crowd favorite - a wine with tons of character and complexity. Brown sugar / tree bark and porridge notes, iron, savory meat, olives, exotic (green) peppercorns, relatively lean, briny acidity went well with the lamb. Tasted prior to the lamb, it seemed quite austere. But with the lamb, it sang!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2BGNirBcEQJ_Vj66wd8G5GhlPjbH5EIH42h1bOL0VH1QufTRODd1NxP-jZ0Y_m_wbDsKou5z9m0drkQCYRbPhaP6h8p367W_nnAEB5nd638UsD9aJE4nr-chMkK_HJspGF11jmpXtADQ/s1600/IMG_6360.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2BGNirBcEQJ_Vj66wd8G5GhlPjbH5EIH42h1bOL0VH1QufTRODd1NxP-jZ0Y_m_wbDsKou5z9m0drkQCYRbPhaP6h8p367W_nnAEB5nd638UsD9aJE4nr-chMkK_HJspGF11jmpXtADQ/s640/IMG_6360.JPG" /></a><br />
Pavillon Rouge 2000 Bordeaux - a very good second wine from Chateau Margaux. This would make a great dinner all on its own!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgKTUVJssIRXVLNyp8cNtyz7ANOtLXBWWUW05gZnZIYbFc07SMn2xO2FZSzXidfYB99rUA-4rJrGgxzJWKoFXmEjRv6nqRVCoJxXFAublAxdzRN_Wo-7edyI86-PEcwNi4KODJ3JdEhl4/s1600/IMG_6361.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgKTUVJssIRXVLNyp8cNtyz7ANOtLXBWWUW05gZnZIYbFc07SMn2xO2FZSzXidfYB99rUA-4rJrGgxzJWKoFXmEjRv6nqRVCoJxXFAublAxdzRN_Wo-7edyI86-PEcwNi4KODJ3JdEhl4/s640/IMG_6361.JPG" /></a><br />
2008 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili. Young but already elegant, red fruited, near silky, great acidity, with great potential. I really like the 2008's and this Giacosa Barbaresco was a knock-out. Similar to Lafarge though, perhaps too light and elegant of a match for the lamb, but a great great treat!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaNIwZcbT5o9keAxEd0Gr4vheJPkWNBqlJXGZ5MneHA1hpZ2ddxO0e0bACwWNJSlH3ynqTlxPr-9nRhURmuy8Gjl6BQ_jdZGswLej26-b1um5z6HC3MmKK9ABqyb5puzaIA6gPGfbx9co/s1600/IMG_6362.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaNIwZcbT5o9keAxEd0Gr4vheJPkWNBqlJXGZ5MneHA1hpZ2ddxO0e0bACwWNJSlH3ynqTlxPr-9nRhURmuy8Gjl6BQ_jdZGswLej26-b1um5z6HC3MmKK9ABqyb5puzaIA6gPGfbx9co/s640/IMG_6362.JPG" /></a><br />
And here we go - 2002 Beaune-Greves 1er Cru was like coming home - this wine made me smile and relax - Burgundy - there is just nothing like it! Elegant red berries, perfectly mature, great acidity, silky and charming. From the master of Cote de Beaune - Michel Lafarge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4DWgDmYuM3mmwA6vUso72RFAL-RpcTOpB-SpM9hIYPwO6SthaF0pRcMseRbQufgnuuNv3Twn6kABRmBG53246h6aCYdDicFGfAM8qmXWo6i0mYZeYPtvubMQQSZdUkFrZ9Bc_YVCPqU/s1600/IMG_6367.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4DWgDmYuM3mmwA6vUso72RFAL-RpcTOpB-SpM9hIYPwO6SthaF0pRcMseRbQufgnuuNv3Twn6kABRmBG53246h6aCYdDicFGfAM8qmXWo6i0mYZeYPtvubMQQSZdUkFrZ9Bc_YVCPqU/s640/IMG_6367.JPG" /></a><br />
Dehlinger has got to be one of the most satisfying new world producers of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Maybe it's because it's one with the most old-world sensibilities in their wines. Russian River Valley based, they make wines that taste real, unforced, from the land. Claret is the second wine of their Cabernet Sauvignon, made in a slightly lighter style than their top Cab. No fancy facade, just vivid wine with good acidity, inky, sleek, with earthy elements. It is perhaps because of their absence of flamboyance or flash, that they don't seem to get very high critics' scores, but the wines are highly respected among wine geeks, and I highly recommend them if you can find them. At 14 years of age, this claret was dense and very youthful.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20owrb0xhUHQYxIlRw3gk1qpageH2huq-AhPLyGZ-RpbmX92qS0_VwLUDjs7fzyY_8zFRKybDUlaw5jR0Hhk8l6qDPSw-NIBY7spa4nWzIZdZTVBKgbIdClkq016zA7Kzv1ztn4QoyYU/s1600/IMG_6366.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20owrb0xhUHQYxIlRw3gk1qpageH2huq-AhPLyGZ-RpbmX92qS0_VwLUDjs7fzyY_8zFRKybDUlaw5jR0Hhk8l6qDPSw-NIBY7spa4nWzIZdZTVBKgbIdClkq016zA7Kzv1ztn4QoyYU/s640/IMG_6366.JPG" /></a><br />
Both the 2006 Raveneau Chablis Monts Mains and the 2006 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc were in great shape! The Raveneau was quite substantial for a Chablis. The Beaucastel blanc was weighy and dense, with notes of honey and hazelnuts.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXAdklzXcAaSpizlcSnW4AQlCngZb9bjTC-Cr8K5dcPqs5dSExD2oJJJLP3QImmlJ9AD2sNmlqgjOQVjSWnSjYE79k_eJvxvDLb9-jdVcr2k20C7tKF_DMvf9g0dawt4epcLtosizH-s/s1600/IMG_6363.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXAdklzXcAaSpizlcSnW4AQlCngZb9bjTC-Cr8K5dcPqs5dSExD2oJJJLP3QImmlJ9AD2sNmlqgjOQVjSWnSjYE79k_eJvxvDLb9-jdVcr2k20C7tKF_DMvf9g0dawt4epcLtosizH-s/s640/IMG_6363.JPG" /></a><br />
Top sparkling rosé from Italy - Ca'del Bosco Franciacorta 2004 "Annamaria Clementi". 100% Pinot Nero (Noir). Very serious wine - hints of citrus, raspberries and grass. Definitely a worthy Italian answer to Champagne. Great way to cleanse the palate at the end of the meal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfoluCFaJ-41knmdI7Iqfut0-bDwlZs85w0MxlL8dB8RvAAhlLBKbnWUlzlzOiF68x297mZyM3wqu1_ywDMmeNOQnn9InpRaOjTjGDZwQ_8dd_ti9FmVODEz6WrSePSdzw4rQjPWq2o9o/s1600/IMG_6358.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfoluCFaJ-41knmdI7Iqfut0-bDwlZs85w0MxlL8dB8RvAAhlLBKbnWUlzlzOiF68x297mZyM3wqu1_ywDMmeNOQnn9InpRaOjTjGDZwQ_8dd_ti9FmVODEz6WrSePSdzw4rQjPWq2o9o/s640/IMG_6358.JPG" /></a><br />
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Great dinner!Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-53916057698885695302014-10-19T16:11:00.002-07:002014-10-20T06:17:37.156-07:00Zola - excellent French restaurant debuts in Palo Alto<a href="http://zolapa.com/"><b>Zola</b></a> just opened in downtown Palo Alto. Finally, I hoped, a foodie French place, worthy of taking my burgundies to, by the chef and wine connoisseur Guillaume Bienaime, previously of Marche in Menlo Park, a restaurant that was renowned among wine geeks for hosting great wine dinners.<br />
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After 3 hours at Zola and sampling a dozen dishes, I am thoroughly satisfied. It was creative seasonal French cooking, comfort food, I'd say, taken to the next level. Not fancy gastronomic, but rather very very tasty. The style of food gave me a feeling like Pizzeria Delfina (of course, that's Italian) and Marlowe (California cuisine), in San Francisco, but with more selection, and it's French - my favorite! This will be my go-to place in Palo Alto, thank goodness, finally! It's not cheap, but not too expensive either, for the quality you get.<br />
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Here are some quick snapshots of what we had. Everything was delicious, and paired with wine very well!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSldnXycJ1o9TSoUvX1x0SlsDMyYcccQTcQEByPpUtWywRdrSYnLFONBEFX2_Z-fGAZI0_hCYmz7vN-7a9Rqbq9Hy1dZ8O2DNQ8_ylgdGkR9I4gp-PvRYxHndmh4PtB7I6oIQE-yQ_a3E/s1600/IMG_6331.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSldnXycJ1o9TSoUvX1x0SlsDMyYcccQTcQEByPpUtWywRdrSYnLFONBEFX2_Z-fGAZI0_hCYmz7vN-7a9Rqbq9Hy1dZ8O2DNQ8_ylgdGkR9I4gp-PvRYxHndmh4PtB7I6oIQE-yQ_a3E/s640/IMG_6331.JPG" /></a><br />
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We sampled a variety of appetizers with a great bottle of 2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre - the wine was a little tight at the beginning, as expected for the structured 2010 vintage of white burgundy, but continued to flesh out throughout the meal, a most excellent bottle of white burgundy, one of the best I've had all year, and to think - this was just a village level wine. This is of course a famous monopole of Domaine des Comtes Lafon. The master of Meursault showed his chops - elegance, balance of fruit, stone, cream, acid, spice - all there, in a very aristocratic package. It has a long long life ahead. I wish I had a 6-pack (alas, I only have one more bottle).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51xVH5hTnZepjkqfMr_SmXop64YLWC02jIgkzaDf6eCRbM35hOac_z94ZIk5FM6clwnGwqVzJB2nI6gzql340n6UYPUiNng2CtW3h35MTG5DosRjcrXSjtMh7DWyyEKKekK6u7LsZKwU/s1600/IMG_6329.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51xVH5hTnZepjkqfMr_SmXop64YLWC02jIgkzaDf6eCRbM35hOac_z94ZIk5FM6clwnGwqVzJB2nI6gzql340n6UYPUiNng2CtW3h35MTG5DosRjcrXSjtMh7DWyyEKKekK6u7LsZKwU/s640/IMG_6329.JPG" /></a><br />
Beef tartar, whole grain, chive, black truffle, fingerling chips <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyMLDGP7oQ0r3zQhyphenhyphenF79geCpogdKYBmr6m5RD8f_nCjg6VuZ5WytwxOQRsODti82RGcQs7LruwY9QubmJdhn73psXmpzdkTEwTOGliORHsH0xRI23FlZ5hFCPilCRQF9xUURFaGz7Y7-s/s1600/IMG_6330.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyMLDGP7oQ0r3zQhyphenhyphenF79geCpogdKYBmr6m5RD8f_nCjg6VuZ5WytwxOQRsODti82RGcQs7LruwY9QubmJdhn73psXmpzdkTEwTOGliORHsH0xRI23FlZ5hFCPilCRQF9xUURFaGz7Y7-s/s640/IMG_6330.JPG" /></a><br />
Terrine de Campagne, chicken & pork, pickled mushrooms<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilTOBQ-8z3dsCGh6-f9sfyEvyNMysBMhSOXMqWAm1RDjOUiT7z1EZmQQbnMFu7Vqab4hHww8Ef2Pw5KNUBpNYiI5i-V7H657H_a7uRc5dkGgVM30a4FIxcLm7g8zcPma2kvmo9i6NhqX4/s1600/IMG_6332.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilTOBQ-8z3dsCGh6-f9sfyEvyNMysBMhSOXMqWAm1RDjOUiT7z1EZmQQbnMFu7Vqab4hHww8Ef2Pw5KNUBpNYiI5i-V7H657H_a7uRc5dkGgVM30a4FIxcLm7g8zcPma2kvmo9i6NhqX4/s640/IMG_6332.JPG" /></a><br />
Seafood special<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIuneC_3RnimpQOWewZkXQoBLIjlz8FK_3y2KEDf06La3yl4kQjh8M4aoFOkoVTTyPfBy0YBp2GGJYpBbZpEnK9SH3s27iE97pd40mLgmaVO58SuWX-gX1bxwVG5-GYT1BEmj8qLBWCo8/s1600/IMG_6334.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIuneC_3RnimpQOWewZkXQoBLIjlz8FK_3y2KEDf06La3yl4kQjh8M4aoFOkoVTTyPfBy0YBp2GGJYpBbZpEnK9SH3s27iE97pd40mLgmaVO58SuWX-gX1bxwVG5-GYT1BEmj8qLBWCo8/s640/IMG_6334.JPG" /></a><br />
Bone marrow<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh08p3KxA6XUkQn5jk3hAnW7HfEhiUDlw7ESiSvY1D-J7whxBFIluDKJ0QqUaVYw8GAQG_C4sFwYd6dcUCAOHwFkR3Q7LjFt9gDRTgvL4ITUxd2ZVfkbuEX1gHuE1Z3gqvkcDVclC1QNo/s1600/IMG_6335.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh08p3KxA6XUkQn5jk3hAnW7HfEhiUDlw7ESiSvY1D-J7whxBFIluDKJ0QqUaVYw8GAQG_C4sFwYd6dcUCAOHwFkR3Q7LjFt9gDRTgvL4ITUxd2ZVfkbuEX1gHuE1Z3gqvkcDVclC1QNo/s640/IMG_6335.JPG" /></a><br />
Roasted Button Mushrooms, “Escargot Butter & Crumb”<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCYLAaepaml6pdeG87RjXwyJ-X5O74Lp4Z4cRGTBU6WxYikfubJ-y1YCbFL5eJDGQZ3ZCBqkFpXpr78AZHdvVYwjtvHPP9cQ8g5NBEPGXZ8s0PC8GUMLOcVmv5rLck4bsdeumlM_0X5cw/s1600/IMG_6336.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCYLAaepaml6pdeG87RjXwyJ-X5O74Lp4Z4cRGTBU6WxYikfubJ-y1YCbFL5eJDGQZ3ZCBqkFpXpr78AZHdvVYwjtvHPP9cQ8g5NBEPGXZ8s0PC8GUMLOcVmv5rLck4bsdeumlM_0X5cw/s640/IMG_6336.JPG" /></a><br />
Short Rib “Bourguignon”, garniture traditionel, parsley bread crumb <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJqMhUaO9fh-CHDb1oabgcn3eyzR9kL2zlQnbUqX8cj4PeAmYNOJr2Zv302zwkf3iZKqDRNsd669kx-tIVxJjlK3JH9UZhw0_qjhJQCsCh9driTiKMZXoJtsJ5mDiVYfOEBYv4OGmB54Q/s1600/IMG_6337.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJqMhUaO9fh-CHDb1oabgcn3eyzR9kL2zlQnbUqX8cj4PeAmYNOJr2Zv302zwkf3iZKqDRNsd669kx-tIVxJjlK3JH9UZhw0_qjhJQCsCh9driTiKMZXoJtsJ5mDiVYfOEBYv4OGmB54Q/s640/IMG_6337.JPG" /></a><br />
Charred Brassicas (cauliflower), french curry, golden raisins<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_2pgBsgjPI35SRNZU-Vf-eyQtfhqYciDZZ8vjvVMQO6oLtO9_yN_84PNv3EAJkbOHmMUJriKJd-2VpEUwl5yGOs1e9xYjhgXgX1CLP_wgf0V7TGO97nUaJyvIWraJBRc9CMHJSX_-CdY/s1600/IMG_6338.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_2pgBsgjPI35SRNZU-Vf-eyQtfhqYciDZZ8vjvVMQO6oLtO9_yN_84PNv3EAJkbOHmMUJriKJd-2VpEUwl5yGOs1e9xYjhgXgX1CLP_wgf0V7TGO97nUaJyvIWraJBRc9CMHJSX_-CdY/s640/IMG_6338.JPG" /></a><br />
Ricotta Gnocchi - slow egg, mushrooms, brown butter, green onion <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKG-Nljmup7nxWsIZaAbRu8KtBvY9WgQg6xBLVN5kGRJHMYVfWMVGxOSJlWqnldM73x2zI1uSzNQkiQpqN8jo4vt6fZqcKe7RPlAgeelGGJakkHoxYp6uuTVOoKTqiZXGGMznl8fUEH9M/s1600/IMG_6341.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKG-Nljmup7nxWsIZaAbRu8KtBvY9WgQg6xBLVN5kGRJHMYVfWMVGxOSJlWqnldM73x2zI1uSzNQkiQpqN8jo4vt6fZqcKe7RPlAgeelGGJakkHoxYp6uuTVOoKTqiZXGGMznl8fUEH9M/s640/IMG_6341.JPG" /></a><br />
Roasted Pork Loin & Belly, piperade, crispy fingerlings, garlic confit, smoked paprika<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTNrt7Q575gmmKTm9BlnN5iyzM7aGvByCQgq1pcJOaCkZKt-4HRRwAgIvJdFfU5HoddlA7LYtgo9UDKHKKHDs4Zw-eA01bSnQoMMLiDkYuzts5kQDkAJEZumtDgi0mxg5BlPNsxZZ640Y/s1600/IMG_6342.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTNrt7Q575gmmKTm9BlnN5iyzM7aGvByCQgq1pcJOaCkZKt-4HRRwAgIvJdFfU5HoddlA7LYtgo9UDKHKKHDs4Zw-eA01bSnQoMMLiDkYuzts5kQDkAJEZumtDgi0mxg5BlPNsxZZ640Y/s640/IMG_6342.JPG" /></a><br />
The pork was a superb pairing with the 2005 Corton-Perrieres, which had been opened for 4 days, finally showing its best on day 4, indicating, not surprisingly, that 2005 grand crus are still much too young. Nevertheless, after sufficient aeration, the wine was on, with tons of deep material (typical of 2005) and game. Even though Vincent Girardin is not my favorite producer, this was a solid showing. I had had this wine one year ago and it was disappointing then. What a difference a year makes, and once again this is a reminder that Burgundies, especially at higher rungs of the hierarchy and from strong vintages, need time. Somewhat surprisingly, the Meursault was also quite a good match to the pork, very different obviously, but intriguing and pleasing. By this point of the meal, the Meursault had opened up, broadened, filled out and revealed more spice, all good things to accompany the pork dish.<br />
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I'll be back!Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5011946245768794903.post-10228995577052488662014-10-16T06:51:00.001-07:002014-10-16T07:44:45.401-07:00Top Champagne Tasting of 2014The 10th annual <a href="http://www.mastersofwine.org/en/Global-Institute/North-America/">Institute of Masters of Wine (IMW) North America</a> Champagne event roared through San Francisco at the end of September. Held in the gorgeous Ferry Building at Market One, with the largest concentration of venerable masters of wine (MW's) in one room that I'd ever seen, this <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2013/10/top-champagne-tasting-of-2013.html">continues</a> to be my favorite champagne tasting of the year in the Bay Area, and an incredible bargain at $65. Once again, this time it did not disappoint. The quantity and quality of the champagnes seemed as high as ever, and generous selection of cheeses didn't hurt either. Hardly any surprises among the tasted wines, vintage champagnes were the most impressive group, as they should be. I wholeheartedly recommend this event to everyone who is interested in champagne. For more info on IMW events, check <a href="http://www.mastersofwine.org/en/events/tastings-and-seminars.cfm">here</a>.<br />
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Here are my quick notes.<br />
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<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" lang="en">
Enjoying <a href="https://twitter.com/mastersofwine">@mastersofwine</a> annual champagne tasting SF w/ fellow bloggers <a href="https://twitter.com/vinography">@vinography</a> & <a href="https://twitter.com/RJonWine">@RJonWine</a> (&Connie). Gr8 event! <a href="http://t.co/Ww6JINE62Z">pic.twitter.com/Ww6JINE62Z</a><br />
— Gary Iron Chevsky (@IronChevsky) <a href="https://twitter.com/IronChevsky/status/516835037988139008">September 30, 2014</a></blockquote>
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script><br />
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Vintage champagnes were impressive.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnZhGl-MBaUPVid804kBSvo1kQzrE0-08X-x41h7Z69YQJvte6wEgVdDmXZMw2Ko3vWp8QUjEUq65XbAEhzIcB9KiEir2Xq-ubVd5BBp-r-I5hIe9Ywpc4BgOANwgLax8eQ4GB22ivpEs/s1600/IMG_6216.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnZhGl-MBaUPVid804kBSvo1kQzrE0-08X-x41h7Z69YQJvte6wEgVdDmXZMw2Ko3vWp8QUjEUq65XbAEhzIcB9KiEir2Xq-ubVd5BBp-r-I5hIe9Ywpc4BgOANwgLax8eQ4GB22ivpEs/s640/IMG_6216.JPG" /></a><br />
All four of the big boys showed well - Bollinger "La Grand Annee" 2004, Dom Perignon 2004, Henriot Enchenteleurs 1999 (out of magnum), and Gosset 2000 Grand Millesime. Perhaps Bollinger and Gosset had slightly more exotic flavors, and Henriot with powerful crystalline minty expression. DP was good and dependable, as always.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR1GjA9RGbZ8mQXfFdVdTHBRFE2H417OpFgEnwAreqJdTkTQIx68r4NL9Z_-FJCj5Ke_YjRQHY0i1ze3994u-FSHI3xrZtP8yZEwT6ql71XuuuVhjSNYIusr4kt6vDvyUglyerVOkagWY/s1600/IMG_6218.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR1GjA9RGbZ8mQXfFdVdTHBRFE2H417OpFgEnwAreqJdTkTQIx68r4NL9Z_-FJCj5Ke_YjRQHY0i1ze3994u-FSHI3xrZtP8yZEwT6ql71XuuuVhjSNYIusr4kt6vDvyUglyerVOkagWY/s640/IMG_6218.JPG" /></a><br />
Despite the gaudy packaging, Piper-Heidsieck "Rare" (2002) always impresses with what's inside. As did the very reliable Pol Roger with their Pinot Noir dominated powerful "Extra Cuvee de Reserve" (2004, 60% Pinot Noir / 40% Chardonnay), even if this is not their top-of-the-line cuvee Sir Winston Churchill. I have come to expect very high quality at every level of Pol Roger's champagnes, including their non-vintage and the various vintage cuvees. If in doubt, you cannot go wrong with this producer. But the other two - Nicolas Feuillatte "Palmes d'Or" 2002 and Mousse Fils Millesime Brut 2008 were pleasant surprises. Generally, Feuillatte is not mentioned in the same league with other top champagnes, but this top wine stood out with intriguing brown sugar notes. But an even bigger discovery was Mousse Fils. I had never even heard of Champagne Mousse Fils, but I was thoroughly impressed by the complexity and richness of flavor, along with super fine and creamy mousse. This is a relatively unknown grower champagne house with prices below other top wines in Champagnes. This was also my first 2008 vintage champagne, a vintage that is much heralded in Champagne as the best after 2002. Impressed, I proceeded to order several bottles immediately from my favorite wine merchant, for a more "thorough" evaluation later on. This definitely deserves a closer look.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjufCDADqUK1e7iBymmTfewJduljgxD115yLQ9JxRh-u1__dSwMiWkbH1Jy1ZD28GvK_MR9EeOe0fd8ZaHeGDn50C8oNbyj3kauUdofESVcs3z0kQZqp0VkMpZOIZG-NPj4Ze1traz4asc/s1600/IMG_6223.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjufCDADqUK1e7iBymmTfewJduljgxD115yLQ9JxRh-u1__dSwMiWkbH1Jy1ZD28GvK_MR9EeOe0fd8ZaHeGDn50C8oNbyj3kauUdofESVcs3z0kQZqp0VkMpZOIZG-NPj4Ze1traz4asc/s640/IMG_6223.JPG" /></a><br />
Among the four vintage Blanc de Blanc's, I was particularly impressed with Christian Coquillette Champagne Saint-Chamant BdB 2005 - powerful, flavorful champagne. Dom Ruinart BdB 2004 and Pol Roger BdB 2002 were more steely and classical, seemingly coming from more structured vintages and in need of more time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ2YJ5tL0agdo0YRCG1OgJbAGHbWjUFhI_unqSeMhV2FDxEl55k1utnU2DImM5oppI1Q5kltePlOpXknDm9A5nt9kNA4pCLiLct41tWeb7XKzQVKkxsvxz2-XquB8NZWTdScnGTOLzem4/s1600/IMG_6226.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ2YJ5tL0agdo0YRCG1OgJbAGHbWjUFhI_unqSeMhV2FDxEl55k1utnU2DImM5oppI1Q5kltePlOpXknDm9A5nt9kNA4pCLiLct41tWeb7XKzQVKkxsvxz2-XquB8NZWTdScnGTOLzem4/s640/IMG_6226.JPG" /></a><br />
Oh, this Perrier-Jouet "Belle Epoque" 2004 Rose is always a beauty - I've tasted it several times with consistent notes - gentle strawberries seduce every time. I know this is a very widely available champagne - you can see it at Costco, etc... - so maybe it doesn't possess a coolness factor, but it is very very good Rose, and one of my favorites every year.<br />
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<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" lang="en">
1999 Henriot Enchanteleurs out of a magnum - wow minty freshness & piercing power! <a href="https://twitter.com/mastersofwine">@mastersofwine</a> SF <a href="http://t.co/YQdkcCba45">pic.twitter.com/YQdkcCba45</a><br />
— Gary Iron Chevsky (@IronChevsky) <a href="https://twitter.com/IronChevsky/status/516832735696941056">September 30, 2014</a></blockquote>
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<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" lang="en">
Krug (NV) - always good, clean & serious, especially w/ age! <a href="https://twitter.com/mastersofwine">@mastersofwine</a> SF <a href="http://t.co/LcbT4RwPlh">pic.twitter.com/LcbT4RwPlh</a><br />
— Gary Iron Chevsky (@IronChevsky) <a href="https://twitter.com/IronChevsky/status/516831120130711552">September 30, 2014</a></blockquote>
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Another note on Krug - though vintage Krug was not present at this tasting, I just <a href="http://www.chevsky.com/2014/10/krug-yquem-sassicaia-and-more-epic-5.html">recently</a> tasted the 2000 Krug, and as good as the NV grand cuvee is, the vintage (2000) is a step up in intensity, with powerful, grippy texture and concentrated, lingering flavors. Both are just beginning to hint at their potential, and will benefit from a lot more time. I would not hesitate to stock up, if you can afford.<br />
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<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" lang="en">
3 excellent NV champs <a href="https://twitter.com/mastersofwine">@mastersofwine</a> SF. Bollinger, Charles Heidsieck, Egly-Ouriet. Can't go wrong. <a href="http://t.co/GRn6d1BJuP">pic.twitter.com/GRn6d1BJuP</a><br />
— Gary Iron Chevsky (@IronChevsky) <a href="https://twitter.com/IronChevsky/status/516833556941651968">September 30, 2014</a></blockquote>
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<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" lang="en">
Taittinger - the one on the right ("Prelude") was really good for a non-vintage champagne <a href="https://twitter.com/mastersofwine">@mastersofwine</a> SF <a href="http://t.co/LO7Dsf9mnF">pic.twitter.com/LO7Dsf9mnF</a><br />
— Gary Iron Chevsky (@IronChevsky) <a href="https://twitter.com/IronChevsky/status/516831910400512000">September 30, 2014</a></blockquote>
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All in all, Champagne continues to dazzle my palate, and I find that with a few additional years of cellaring post-release, these wines hardly ever disappoint, and with prices of other top regions continuing to climb sharply (Burgundy, Barolo), Champagne prices have remained relatively stable. While there are a myriad of options to choose from, from trendy small grower producers to established big brand houses, I find quality in all camps high, and I think big houses are doing a great job, despite large production. Your good old Dom P, Cristal, Krug, Bolliger, Taittinger, Heidsieck, Dom Ruinart, Perrier-Jouet, Henriot, Gosset and so on, are as good as ever, as are cool growers such as Egly-Ouriet, Henri Goutorbe, and Mousse Fils.Iron Chevskyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05241149967997845671noreply@blogger.com0