Sunday, August 17, 2014

Robert Chevillon 2008's, 6 years on





Impressive showing by 2008 lineup from Robert Chevillon at our local wine shop Vin Vino Wine. The vintage is starting to approach the window of drinkability. High-acidity is a common attribute of 2008 red burgundies in general, and it's true for Chevillon as well. The Nuits-Saint-Georges "meatiness" comes through in spades in these wines. Spice combined with acidity gives them attractive savoriness that contributes to complexity. Most of the wines are still 2-5 years away from optimal drinking IMO. As the fruit is ripe, acidity will carry them a long time without distorting balance, the wines should continue to mellow out and integrate. We have much to look forward to.

Tasting notes

Robert Chevillon 2008 Nuits-Saint-Georges "Vieilles Vignes" - nose: hibiscus and herbs, at the peak. Palate: good chocolate and spice flavor but finishes very short as flavor fades almost immediately, this is light and savory without enough substance. Uninspiring.

Robert Chevillon 2008 Nuits-Saint-Georges "Les Bousselots" - deeper nose. Palate: deep sexy spice, good acidity balanced by rich red berry and chocolate inflected fruit. Moderate complexity. Nice.

Robert Chevillon 2008 Nuits-Saint-Georges "Les Chaignots" - smoother texture, more feminine, broader nose and palate, herbaceous spice, but in a good subtle way, seems more complex, and the "softness" shouldn't be confused for lack of intensity. Quite good.

Robert Chevillon 2008 Nuits-Saint-Georges "Les PerriƩres" - nose: earth, herbs and minerals. Palate: ooh! silky smooth mouth-feel, suave, beef, tomato, herbs, classical burg, sweet red-fruited aftertaste, still slightly tannic. Favorite so far. Give it 2-3 years. A beauty.

Robert Chevillon 2008 Nuits-Saint-Georges "Les RonciƩres" - less expressive nose. Very spicy palate, lively acid, rich fruit, stone / slate, toast, intense, quite primary, hibiscus tea. With time, tannins become noticeable, texture quite unpolished at this point (I think due to youth), unlike the prior two wines. Has the components to be very good in 3-5 years, but too young and primary right now. This wine clearly comes across as more powerful and less developed than the previous bunch.

Robert Chevillon 2008 Nuits-Saint-Georges "Les Vaucrains" - nose evocative of deep cave, not revealing all its secrets, put power lurking beneath, herbs (somewhat reminiscent of Bordeaux). Palate: tannic, more savage, leather, coffee grinds, spice, masculinity, really delicious flowers/herbs, should be pretty special with few more years (3-5). A beauty in the making, a bit less Pinot-like than the others, quite true to the reputation of the Vaucrains terroir, with leanings toward Bordeaux / Barolo.

Overall, other than the somewhat disappointing NSG villages (I think 2007, 2009, and 2010 were better), this is a very satisfying line-up. Perrieres is the most enjayable wine at the moment, with silky suave texture. Roncieres is step up in intensity, but needs more time, while Vaucrains is at another level, as it should be. We were not presented with Cailles and Les Saint Georges, but I can extrapolate that those wines would be equally if not more impressive.

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