Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri 2010
On Feb 24, one of my favorite trade tasting events of the year arrived to San Francisco. For background on Gambero Rosso and their Tre Bicchieri event, see my coverage of the last year's event. The world of Italian wine is diverse and complicated. And wonderful. Tre Bicchieri really gives you a chance to sample across the whole of Italy, and to celebrate the variety and the quality all in one place. So without further ado, I will jump straight into impressions.
1. The biggest thing that strikes you at an event like this is just how there is always a great new unfamiliar type of wine showing up. This year, I have to give it to Sparkling. The taste and quality of the Italian sparklers is astounding. And I am not talking about Prosecco (which usually leaves me cold). I am talking about Franciacorta DOCG (in the north of Italy, in Lombardy region) and Trento DOC (in the north of Italy, in Trentino - Alto Adige region). These are serious wines made in the traditional method of Champagne. Price is a big problem for these relatively obscure (in the US) appellations, and one more reason why you don't see a lot of them in this country. Are you willing to shell out $40-100 on an Italian sparker? (After having tasted them, I am!) Here are two of my faves for Trento. Trento Altemasi Graal Brut Riserva 2002 by Cavit - great nose, rich and lush apple syrup, and Trento Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore Brut 2000 by Ferrari - yeasty, bready, drier and more refined than Altemasi. I noted them last year as well, but at that time Ca'del Bosco Franciacorta (absent this year) stole my heart.
2.
3. I must say the event seemed "poorer" this year, as most of the cult names were not there. I did see Sassicaia. That's about it. The food was just cheese, crackers, and fruit. Nor did I see the Tre Bicchieri guides or even cork-screws given away like I'd spotted a year ago.
4. Relatively thin showing by Barolo and Brunello reminded me that there are fewer celebrated wines in the most recent release (2005) than a year ago (2004). Only one Brunello stood out for me - Canalicchio di Sopra 2004 - young, fresh and tasty!
5.
6. Tre Bicchieri wines (at least all the ones I was drawn to taste) are expensive. Definitely if you want the good stuff, brace yourself -- you will pay just as much as for high-end French. I don't see any obvious "value" categories at the Tre Bicchieri level.
7.
8. Some outstanding wines are not imported to California (or the US altogether). The Recioto di Soave above was one of them. Several more that stood out for me were:
a) Franciacorta Saten 2006 sparkler by Il Mosnel - 100% chardonnay, fresh rich lemon custard. Shown in the photo with Italian distributor Lucia Barzano.
b) Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza 2006 by Tenuta Olim Bauda - rich, fresh, balanced, a fairly substantial Barbera.
c) Chianti Classico Tenuta di Capraia Riserva 2006 - good balance, fruit, great acid, nice soft texture/tannin.
After 5 tooth-staining hours of pacing myself through the aisles, I was exhausted. The wines I commented on here, I re-tasted 2-3 times throughout the evening, doing my part in delivering diligent assessment to you, my readers. I know, I know - it's a tough job, but someone's gotta do it!
Comments