Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Porko-buco with Barolo


Anyone in the mood for a magical pairing with Barolo? I always am!

Donato Enoteca continues to shine, almost two years after opening. I just come in and ask the chef (Donato or sous-chef Pedro, whoever happens to be at the helm that day) "What do you have today?"

Last Friday night, Pedro said "I got pork shank on a bone, off the menu". "Osso-buco?", I asked. "No, it's pork shank. Osso-buco is veal." Oh, porko-buco it is then! I didn't need any urging. Melting pork, falling off the bone, with a bottle of Barolo that I'd been curious to try for a while - Fontanafredda 2000 Barolo "La Villa" from a sub-plot of Paiagallo vineyard in Barolo. Absolutely awesome pairing - the pork was smoky charred on the outside and moist and gelatinous on the inside. The Barolo - pure milk-chocolate meets truffles and tarry berries, luscious texture, reflecting the warmth and seduction of the 2000 vintage. Delicious wine, although probably a touch more wood-chocolate-vanilla than I would have preferred. I've had so many other reds, but every time my nose dips into a glass of decently aged Barolo, as it touches my lips and rolls over my tongue, it is just so obvious why Barolo is the king of Italian wine.

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